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2000 3rz-fe coil on plug ignition retard for nitrous

Discussion in 'Performance and Tuning' started by shapagna, Nov 5, 2024.

  1. Nov 5, 2024 at 2:03 PM
    #1
    shapagna

    shapagna [OP] Well-Known Member

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    wichita ks
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    has anyone done an IAT mod or coolant temp sensor to retard timing for a power adder? for a cheap way to do it without a piggy back on a stock ecm. Or is there another easy way to trigger a reduction in ignition timing by sending a "false" signal to the ecm? thanks
     
  2. Feb 4, 2025 at 3:07 AM
    #2
    Clifton

    Clifton New Member

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    I know it's an older post but...I tried everything on a 2GR, Coolant did nothing, IAT got me a degree or two verified by logging on Torque pro. It is was not enough for boost. I found a used MAPECU3 to pull timing for boost.
     
  3. Feb 4, 2025 at 6:08 AM
    #3
    shapagna

    shapagna [OP] Well-Known Member

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    thanks for the reply, I still havent found a solution. im wondering if a combination of IAT and Coolant temp would gain a few degrees
     
  4. Feb 4, 2025 at 10:39 AM
    #4
    Clifton

    Clifton New Member

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    It won't be enough. I tried everything. I put a pot on ECT to match 220* and got nothing. I put a pot on air temp to see the min temp to get the most retard, splicing into the maf temp wire and then used a resistor on a boost switch. The 2-3 degrees was not enough. This was before I knew the PID to input to log knock. I ended up cracking a plug porcelian and my timing was around 11 degrees retarded from knock. Not the safeest way to get there. I now log timing, KCLV, and KFV. I've been on the mapecu for 5 years no issues.

    This is a screen shot of the air temp getting bumped up under boost. You can see the very small timing change.

    switched ait temp.jpg
     
  5. Feb 4, 2025 at 10:44 AM
    #5
    Clifton

    Clifton New Member

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    Here's another that didn't make since as it didn't drop.

    switched 2.jpg
     
  6. Feb 4, 2025 at 11:12 AM
    #6
    shapagna

    shapagna [OP] Well-Known Member

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    dang, maybe the only option for me is to run c16 to keep it safe if i shove more than 75 shot down it. since it is a dedicated mud truck for 2 runs a year. 2 degrees would help me out though up to 75.
     
  7. Mar 22, 2025 at 10:28 AM
    #7
    Dirty Dude

    Dirty Dude Well-Known Member

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    Dirt, miles, and wear.
    C16 is full of lead and will foul the O2 sensors. There are unleaded options up to about 102 octane. That may be enough for what you're doing.

    Spoofing the IAT and ECT values as higher than are will make the ECU pull timing and fuel. Something to consider for anyone running a dry shot of nitrous. What you would probably have to do to get more fuel and less timing is modify the MAF signal.

    The Toyota ECU is a dead-end and a standalone is really the best option for tuning.
     
    shapagna[OP] likes this.

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