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96 Tacoma AM2 short, at Distributor?

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by jlwalsh22, Jan 18, 2025.

  1. Jan 18, 2025 at 1:35 PM
    #1
    jlwalsh22

    jlwalsh22 [OP] Member

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    My 96 Tacoma 2.4 L started blowing the 30 amp AM2 fuse. It seems that the short may be at the distributor. The power terminal, which connects to the B-R wire at the distributor shows 0.8 ohms to ground. The B-W terminal next to that B-R terminal also has 0.8 ohms to ground. This does not seem to be appropriate. Can anyone confirm?

    If so, is it possible to take the distributor apart to try to repair it?
     
  2. Jan 18, 2025 at 2:24 PM
    #2
    O'Silver_Taco

    O'Silver_Taco Well-Known Member

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  3. Jan 18, 2025 at 4:15 PM
    #3
    jlwalsh22

    jlwalsh22 [OP] Member

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    This one seems to be downstream from the switch. I pulled switch connector, and the short seems to be past the switch.
     
  4. Jan 24, 2025 at 7:33 AM
    #4
    jlwalsh22

    jlwalsh22 [OP] Member

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    Following up to see if someone can help by providing data to track down the short that blows the AM2 fuse. Could someone with a 1st gen 2.4 L do some measurements at the distributor connector?
    With the + battery terminal off and the switch off, unplug the distributor wire connector and measure the resistance to ground for the four terminals on the distributor, and for the wires at the connector. Then provide the same data with the switch on.

    I am getting at the terminals:
    B-R: Ground
    B-W: Ground
    Others: Open

    At the connector wires:
    Blue: Ground
    Others: Open

    This is with the under dash cable disconnected from the switch.
     
  5. Feb 6, 2025 at 6:16 PM
    #5
    jlwalsh22

    jlwalsh22 [OP] Member

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    As an update, a replacement distributor did not have the B-R or B-W going to ground. Good evidence of a problem inside the distributor.

    I removed the distributor and took it apart and replaced the condenser. The lead on the condenser that was removed was shorted to the outer casing, so obviously that would ground out the ignition. Everything else inside the distributor looked OK. The condenser material did look like it melted. I would guess it is easier to pull the distributor and work on it on the bench than to work on it on the vehicle. It seems that the unit with the magnet has to be removed, and the condenser fits in fairly snuggly. Before removing the distributor, I did make sure that the timing mark on the pulley was lined up with TDC mark and that it was on the compression stroke. Make note of where the rotor is pointing before you remove the distributor because it will turn while being removed. Reinstall the distributor so the rotor ends up in the same position.
     

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