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2017 misfiring

Discussion in '3rd Gen. Tacomas (2016-2023)' started by not0ny, Jan 28, 2025.

  1. Jan 28, 2025 at 10:29 AM
    #1
    not0ny

    not0ny [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Feb 7, 2016
    Member:
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    Male
    Vehicle:
    2017 MGM TRD SPORT DCSB 4X4
    Bilstein 6112/5160 JBA UCA
    Hey guys,

    Man I was just reading the first page and noticed lots of issues with the 2016-2017 Tacoma. Lots of gremlins.

    I'm unfortunately in the same predicament.

    Little background my Tacoma had the leaking timing cover and coolant y pipe that was repaired at around 90k miles. I'm currently at 106k miles. Spark plugs done somewhere around 100k? All other fluids are up to date as well including coolant. No transmission fluid change since Toyota keeps telling me it's a lifetime closed system.

    Last April I started having a few random misfires when driving 70 mph, it would briefly lose power and a drop in rpm, but engine would kick back and no issues. I noticed this on a road trip after getting gas from a random station. Happened 1-3 times but only very infrequently. I figured it was bad gas, symptoms I thought went away after burning gas and fueling with premium gas. No check engine light.

    I also thought it was a bad fuel injector. Symptoms intermittently kept occuring even after using fuel injector cleaners and even letting Toyota do their fuel injector cleaner and throttle body cleaning.

    Fast forward I was driving to California, 2 hours into the drive my truck started misfiring frequently, at any speed ranging from 30-70 mph. Limped to a nearby town. Still no check engine light. I know dumb but wasn't near home or any mechanic at the time..next morning limped going less than 50 mph and keeping it under 2k rpm, maybe a small misfire, but not as bad if I were driving normally.

    Still no check engine light this whole time.. got to my family home, cleaned the MAF sensor, throttle body, still misfiring. Pulled the passenger coil packs, they tested fine. Couldn't get to the driver side coil packs.

    I don't think it's the transmission.. thoughts are it could be possibly bad coil pack on driver side I couldy get to, bad cat, fuel injector.. any other thoughts hard to track it down since it's not really reproducible except I did notice it's more when the engine is hot which makes me think coil pack..

    Also no check engine light as well

    No engine modifications, just 2.5 inch lift with 33s.

    Thanks for the help, i'll keep you guys posted
     
  2. Jan 28, 2025 at 3:59 PM
    #2
    bulalo

    bulalo Well-Known Member

    Joined:
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    SoCAL Inland Empire
    Vehicle:
    2017 trd offroad 4wd LB
    KDMax pro 9.0
  3. Jan 28, 2025 at 4:24 PM
    #3
    not0ny

    not0ny [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Feb 7, 2016
    Member:
    #177415
    Messages:
    323
    Gender:
    Male
    Vehicle:
    2017 MGM TRD SPORT DCSB 4X4
    Bilstein 6112/5160 JBA UCA
  4. Feb 8, 2025 at 10:09 AM
    #4
    bulalo

    bulalo Well-Known Member

    Joined:
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    SoCAL Inland Empire
    Vehicle:
    2017 trd offroad 4wd LB
    KDMax pro 9.0
    Any updates
     
    Chew likes this.
  5. Feb 8, 2025 at 10:28 AM
    #5
    not0ny

    not0ny [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Feb 7, 2016
    Member:
    #177415
    Messages:
    323
    Gender:
    Male
    Vehicle:
    2017 MGM TRD SPORT DCSB 4X4
    Bilstein 6112/5160 JBA UCA
    Toyota drove my truck for 80 ish miles apparently no issues. My brother pulled off my coil packs on the driver side they tested within range, the intake manifold the plenum was intact.

    Changed out the PCV valve in case.. going to drive it around until something pops up or hopefully if it resolves it was a bad/dirty PCV
     
    bulalo[QUOTED] likes this.
  6. Feb 8, 2025 at 10:33 AM
    #6
    gudujarlson

    gudujarlson Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jul 2, 2019
    Member:
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    Messages:
    7,397
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    Minnesota
    Vehicle:
    2020 TRD Off-Road DCSB 6MT
    Kings, Dakars, SPCs, 33's, Mobtown Sliders, TRD Skid
    The PCV valve allows blow by gases to escape the crankcase. There is little to no chance that it is the cause of your problem. I suggest that instead of throwing money at the problem my replacing parts, that you follow a troubleshooting and inspection process.

    I also suggest ignoring 95% of what you hear on this forum. Listen to the few qualified people on this forum and ignore the rest. Buy a book or take a class on auto mechanics.
     
    bulalo and Chew like this.

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