1. Welcome to Tacoma World!

    You are currently viewing as a guest! To get full-access, you need to register for a FREE account.

    As a registered member, you’ll be able to:
    • Participate in all Tacoma discussion topics
    • Communicate privately with other Tacoma owners from around the world
    • Post your own photos in our Members Gallery
    • Access all special features of the site

Negating passenger airbag switch

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by Laxtoy, Feb 9, 2025.

  1. Feb 9, 2025 at 12:44 PM
    #1
    Laxtoy

    Laxtoy [OP] Dog is my backseat driver

    Joined:
    Feb 14, 2015
    Member:
    #148610
    Messages:
    1,364
    Gender:
    Male
    Maltby, WA
    Vehicle:
    99 3.4l 5 speed 4WD 2023 Limited DCLB 4WD
    Fox 2.5 DSC resi CO's w/ 700lb King Coils, Camburg uca's, T-100 rear leafs, 13WL Tundra brakes, 1" 4crawler body lift, 295/75/16 Hankook MT, Ruff Stuff u bolt flip, 10" Fox LSC resi shocks turned back on custom mounts, home built rear high clearance bumper with dual swing outs, Diode Dynamics SSC2 Pro rear floods, Skid Row front and transfer case skid, home built transmission skid, Mercerfab sliders, home built front bumper, Badlands Apex 12k winch with synth line, 4.56's, ARB rear locker, LonePeak wedge camper, eBay snorkel, Sierra LEDs 20" dual amber/white light bar, Diode Dynamics SS3 Max amber fogs, Mini D2S projector retrofit, Blue Sea ML-ACR, dual Odyssey PC1200's, 100 watt solar panel, 20 plate heat exchanger/home built shower kit
    99 ext cab has the key operated airbag switch, as I believe all extended and regular cab 1st gens do.

    Double cab does not have the switch, instead has the blank
    55524-04010

    Searched a bunch on how to negate the switch, there’s been some random threads dating back several years, nothing really answers the question.

    To be clear, mine is always on, no plan to ever turn it off, it’s not a vehicle that’s going to see children riding in it while I own it which may be for a very long time.

    I also have new keying for the rest of the truck, could either get the switch keyed alike or hold on to the old key, just not something I care about.

    I’ve read some people have just left it in the on position and buried the switch then installed the blank plate

    Anyone with electrical knowledge, is there a wiring diagram for double cans that shows how the switch is bypassed?

    Ideally I’d like to remove the switch and reassemble to make it function like a double cab with the option to put it back to original if I plan to sell the truck
     
  2. Feb 9, 2025 at 2:03 PM
    #2
    turbodb

    turbodb AdventureTaco

    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2016
    Member:
    #177696
    Messages:
    8,554
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Dan
    PNW
    Vehicle:
    2000 Tacoma Xcab 4x4 SR5 V6 TRD
    AdventureTaco
    Attached is the wiring diagram for 01-04 (specifically, from an '03), which contains both the Xtra- and DoubleCab diagrams. They are - as usual - a bit of a PITA to read. See 036srs.pdf.

    TL;DR - the easiest route is to bury your existing switch and leave it in the on position.

    If you really want to bypass it, here's what it looks like you need to do to me...

    First, look at how the Xtracab version works. According to the description,

    When the passenger airbag manual on/off SW is on, the current flowing from the ACC or IGN fuse to the airbag squib (Front passenger airbag assembly) is same as above, causing the airbag squib (Front passenger airbag assembly) to expand in an accident.

    If the passenger airbag manual on/off SW is turned to off, the current flows from the ACC fuse to TERMINAL 1 of the passenger airbag manual on/off indicator to TERMINAL 2 to GROUND, lighting the indicator up. Then the current between TERMINAL (B) 11 of the airbag sensor assembly and the airbag squib (Front passenger airbag assembly) is cut off, so that it does not expand the airbag squib (Front passenger airbag assembly) in an accident.


    So, what that says, is when the switch is on, it is as depicted ("on paper") in the wiring diagram. Power (my blue line with arrows) comes in via 6B/IG1, goes through P-/11B (Green-White) to the switch (I've highlighted with red circle) which is ON by default, and flows through to the A21 airbag squib.

    upload_2025-2-9_13-38-14.png

    When the switch (red circle) is turned off, it flips both of those switches there (connected by dashed lines), turning the one on the left ON and the one on the right OFF. By doing that, the diagram changes to be this

    • Left ON - now power is able to flow (red) all the way through the passenger ABS indicator to ground, where previously it wasn't able to.
    • Right OFF - now power can no longer flow through to the A21 airbag squib, because the switch is off. As such, there's no completed circuit through the airbag squib.

    upload_2025-2-9_13-45-53.png


    Hopefully that all makes sense.

    Then, here's the diagram for DoubleCab. You'll note that there's no switch at all, and the wires from A21 airbag squib just go directly to P+/10B and P-/11B directly. (Note that in the diagram, the pin order is switched, adding to the confusion!)

    As such, there's no "double switch" to turn off, and there's no passenger airbag indicator to illuminate.

    upload_2025-2-9_14-2-25.png

    So, you could find the wires going to the A21 airbag squib (LG and G-R) on your Xtracab and directly connect those to the P+/10B and P-/11B pins, bypassing the switch. Doing so would ensure that the airbag was always on.

    That seems like a lot of work to me though, which is why I'd just bury the switch in the dash, in the ON position.

     

    Attached Files:

    Laxtoy[QUOTED][OP] likes this.
  3. Feb 9, 2025 at 8:44 PM
    #3
    Laxtoy

    Laxtoy [OP] Dog is my backseat driver

    Joined:
    Feb 14, 2015
    Member:
    #148610
    Messages:
    1,364
    Gender:
    Male
    Maltby, WA
    Vehicle:
    99 3.4l 5 speed 4WD 2023 Limited DCLB 4WD
    Fox 2.5 DSC resi CO's w/ 700lb King Coils, Camburg uca's, T-100 rear leafs, 13WL Tundra brakes, 1" 4crawler body lift, 295/75/16 Hankook MT, Ruff Stuff u bolt flip, 10" Fox LSC resi shocks turned back on custom mounts, home built rear high clearance bumper with dual swing outs, Diode Dynamics SSC2 Pro rear floods, Skid Row front and transfer case skid, home built transmission skid, Mercerfab sliders, home built front bumper, Badlands Apex 12k winch with synth line, 4.56's, ARB rear locker, LonePeak wedge camper, eBay snorkel, Sierra LEDs 20" dual amber/white light bar, Diode Dynamics SS3 Max amber fogs, Mini D2S projector retrofit, Blue Sea ML-ACR, dual Odyssey PC1200's, 100 watt solar panel, 20 plate heat exchanger/home built shower kit
    Oy vey, you’re right, easiest to just bury the switch. I don’t see any issues with doing so, even if it was ever necessary to disable it, it’s not a lot of work to pull the dash apart and turn it off, as long as I have the original key.
     

Products Discussed in

To Top