Official Crawlbox BS thread!

2022 Automatic Off-road Manual T-case (2022 4Runner t-case), Crawlbox (TG 4.7), and NWF Trident, anytime rear elocker wire harness swap (stock elocker), ADD wire harness swap. Pulled 4WD-ECU fuse for right now.

Triple sticks run to ebrake location

 

Linkage

 

Armor fits, but some updates will be required...

Crawlbox mount

 

How is the shifting with the pivot so far from the lever, can you easily just push on the lever, or do you need to lift/pull it?

 

That is a really great question and observation .... Here are all of my observations and opinions on the swap.

• Pull and Pushing back and forth is a little better then pushing up and down. Although you can push up and down without much issue. Sometimes pushing down on 4-Lo T-case bottoms out on the floor, but not by much.
• I have no clearance issues with the design, and no linkage rubs or pushes other linkage out of gears
  • For me it took some time and effort to come up with the design to clear everything and still keep as much flooring and tranny shift housing in place... more time then I thought it would take, maybe 8+ hours of my time
  • A bender would have made this way easier over cutting, hammering to bend, then welding
  • I really wanted to keep the center console in place so using the ebrake location does work... Note: at the cost of moving the ebrake
• There is more noise in the cab, even after sealing it with silicon and EPDM and the original floor material
• After designing and installing the the Crawl box mount there is more noise in the cab, it took a wheeling trip to get all of the metal to settle in to help some noise go away
  • I decided to experiment with the mount by attaching it to the tranny armor in place of a new cross member. I was a little worried about this at first but given the design there hasn't been any noticeable issues after a couple of hard wheeling trips.
    • I did this so I can easily keep the armor I have, and remove the mount to more easily remove the crawl box and t-case in the future
    • I will be watching this closely to make sure this design works
  • I can feel when the truck goes into gear now through the seat w/ this addition
• I can still shift into and out of 4-Hi while driving, I have only tried it up to about 40 miles per hour. In fact moving makes it easier if stopped it is harder to shift in and out of 4-Hi
  
• 90% of the time I need to turn the truck off to shift out of 4-Lo easily... Gears keep spinning otherwise and I don't want to grind the gears
• 4-Lo linkage sometimes makes a little rattle noise, I haven't pin pointed the cause yet
• I like the fact I left the ADD in place, this is easier to change while in a tight turn while wanting to disengage the front wheels, trying to shift in and out of 4-Hi to only get rear wheels is harder while at a stand still
  • I considered the ADD delete, but right now I am happy I left it in with a new wire harness controlling it
• Having all of the 4wheel components on their own is way better than the 4WD ECU in my opinion. Rear elocker on its own harness, ADD on its own harness, and gears being shifted... The ABS sensor no longer break 4wheeling
  • Anytime rear elocker
  • ADD engage and disengage when needed
  • Shift in place of circuits driving 4-wheel
• 230 total crawl ratio gives me the impression the brakes are going to rub away quickly the torq is massive. Sometimes I have found it is better to shift into neutral to sit still when needed
  • Rear disc brake swap really helps with the low crawl ration in my opinion, I am glad I did this
  • I also swapped out to 4Runner calipers and rotors, I am glad I did this as well
• Pulling the 4-wheel drive ECU 10amp fuse under the dash removes most of the dash lights

Overall I am really happy with the swap... Better wheeling at the cost of... (I use this as my daily driver with no issues)

• More noise in the cab vs almost zero noise prior
  
• Feeling the gears through the seat vs not noticing before
• Understanding how to use 4-wheel drive components vs just turning a knob
• No Dash lights currently working vs 4-wheel dash light indicators working
• Currently - no 4WD ECU options including traction control, craw control etc... vs having them

Feel free to ask any questions I would be happy to help anyone wanting to do the swap with information. It took me about 3 working days at about 12 hours each day to get the core if it done by myself on jack stands in my driveway (minus crawl mount and electrical spoofing I am working on)