Bump stops?!!

Can someone please explain to me why bump stops are so darn expensive?

 

I run these front and back. I very rarely hit the rear bumps after I got my RXT leaf pack but the front ones are a vast improvement over the stock ones.
They are almost half the price of durobumps or sumo springs.

https://www.perryparts.com/

 

I was doing research on other stuff at work today and found these: https://uk.misumi-ec.com/vona2/detail/221000018554/?HissuCode=RI-45
You can give them a try for $17. Be the guinea pig and test some hoist trolley parts.

 

Wheeler super bumps are awesome, can't recommend them enough. Stock bumps are hard and awful.

 

one reason I got PerryParts. The only fronts I found not expensive.

 

Because "overlander tax".

For fronts I run these Energy Suspension urethane bumpstops in my 4Runner, incredible value at $37:

$38 Energy Suspension - 8.9104G REAR BUMP STOPS

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E1SUO2A/

For rears you can run Chevy Silverado bumpstops:

$18 AUTOKAY 523-049/15712438 Rear Frame Leaf Spring Bumper Bump Stop Fits for Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Hd Pickup Truck for GMC Sierra 1500-2 Pcs Rear Axle Bumper

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B55S9FXR/ You'll need to zip off the tab on the backing plate and drill a hole in the bump pad on your truck's frame.

 

Seems like a pretty good value! For the occasional bump during mall crawling for me. I wonder if the chev 1500 non hd would be a better alternative for our trucks? Similiar set up by the look of it. Popped up in the recommendations below your link.


Rear Axle Bumper with Nuts 15712438 523-049 Compatible with Chevy Silverado 1500 and GMC Sierra 1500 Rear Jounce Bumper 1999-2007 (yellow)

 

Another vote for Perry Parts. They even sent me the newer version of their bump stops when they came out.

 

Both are advertised as interchangeable with GM P/N 15712438, so they're probably the same/similar. Buy whichever Chineseium is cheaper.

 

How do you know what length to get?
I do have flip kit in rear.
I have about 2 in in front and 2.5 in rear via Bilstein shocks and deaver leafs.

 

I run the same in the front, very recently installed (replaced the included fasteners with 306 stainless BHCS though). Went wheeling during King of the Hammers this year and apparently I hit the bump stops a few times, but never even noticed. That alone tells me they are at least doing a better job than the hard-as-a-rock stock ones I had on previously.

I also plan to go the GM route in the rear soon.

 

Thanks all. Ive about a 2.5” lift up front and 2” in the rear. How do I know what is the right size?

 

Just arrived today
Durobumps for the front
Archive garage option 3 for the rear. The hardware on these are beefy!

 

My truck is similar to yours (DCLB, ~2" lift) with respect to my experience with the Energy Suspension bump stops up front. I've only had them on a short while and haven't done any gnarly wheeling so far, so time will tell, but I like them so far.

 

Curious about these for daily driver and minor off-road.

 

why do people use these? i have wheeled my trucks pretty good for 10 + years and cant recall noticing a need for them...

is it for when people 'bump' over an obstacle instead of crawling it? that bump impact is softer in that case?
or is this when running a bit too fast on offroad whoops where your bottoming out suspension?

it seems like a lot of people get these but as someone who wheels their truck i havent ever noticed
why people get them...

thanks

 

Literally all vehicles have bump stops. Some are internal to the shock, but most are external. They are the last line of defence against leaf springs or control arms just hitting the frame on compression. Shocks usually don't have enough compression dampening to handle severe bumps because they would be way too stiff for everything else. Bump stops provide some cushioning to prevent damage or a very uncomfortable feeling when you bottom out. They also create a deliberate end point for compression so you don't just squish your shocks and destroy them.

Usually OEM bump stops are quite hard, which you 100% feel when you hit them. Some people opt for softer aftermarket ones so that it's not as harsh, and it allows them to go softer on the compression valving in the shocks because you can rely on the bump stops for the harder hits. Technically yes, you could just drive slower and avoid over-compressing the suspension. But that doesn't always work out the way you want.

 

thanks and i somewhat knew that, im curious what driving scenarios and the frequency of them lead so many people to changing out bumpstops...because i have wheeled for a decade and cant recall bottoming them. is it for rock crawlers bumping up over rocks a lot or more highspeed stuff?

 

It can be for both... It kinda depends how aggressive you are with any type of obstacle/terrain. How often you use them also depends heavily on the suspension setup and weight of the vehicle. Like just putting ~1000 lbs in the box of most Tacoma's is enough to squash the factory suspension enough to the point where you are riding on the bump stops. At that point any bump at all means you are using them.

You almost certainly have used the bump stops before. But with lower speed crawling/wheeling you obviously aren't going to be coming down as hard or fast on the bump stops as say a railroad crossing on a highway. It also doesn't help that factory suspension on these trucks is stiff af so it's kinda hard to tell if you bottomed out of if that was just the suspension being stiff. You may have even used them at max articulation but weren't going fast enough to actually feel them engaging.

Lots of guys like to put longer shocks on the rear to get more downtravel (the front is limited by CV axles or UCAs). Longer shocks means they are taller when compressed and often require a taller bump stop to prevent you from crushing the shock on compression. U-bolt flip kits are also popular, which often include new bump stops. So people changing the bump stops isn't always due to how often they are using them.

 

good info - thank you