2021 Tacoma Trd OffRoad 4x4 Audio Upgrade Finally

Well it's finally time to give the audio a face lift and I have already made the initial first step of changing out the head unit to the one in picture (this is sales pic not my actual truck just fyi).
The specs are hard to find on the radio but I enjoy the experience so far and the eq options are better.
So now I am ready to take the plunge on the correct upgrade for my JBL speaker package with subwoofer and amp. To save time I am also including a pdf with all the items I have pretty much settled on. I realize so many of you have done installs and have gotten vast experience through the journey and do's and don'ts. Take a look at the product and let me konw if I am off base with my selections or should I consider something else. I am just curious to see other cool setups that people are happy with. I feel like with this setup its the best plug and play kind of option with only running new rca's and power for the amp. I think (if I am reading correctly) the adapters allow me to plug into oem plug at amp and use adapter to feed new amp which I believe takes care of the blue wire that provides power and activates the amp. If not I can run a small wire when running rcas and probably will just in case. I can obviously spend less on the speakers and get around the same quality but I am really looking for an audiophile setup where I get no cracking or popping in the high end or muddy lows but I like to rock our with some loud music but I can also appreciate all vocal music or instruments like Jazz music so still looking to play loud but with crisp high notes and speakers that can handle all the amp can throw. the rear speakers are not so much on the RMS power but I can individually turn that channel down but everythign else looks to be what I am looking for. Also just for info but I don't need %1000 increased power and volume because a better setup with a larger amp and capacitors for sure could be added but this Tacoma really is a smaller cab space and my target isnt so much increase volume (which I do want) but more super clear notes. Thanks for the time and when I do the install I will jsut update this page. I really don't see too many 3rd Gen Tacoma with JBL package upgrades and I am suspecting it's the cost. Seeing as I am commited to the process now I might as well document for others finally wanting to bite the bullet. There really wasnt anything wrong with my original radio but I really liked the layout of this radio and eliminating a lot of knobs giving a more sophisticated look. One thing I can say is this is still an android radio so your dealing with that whole side of things and apple carplay is activated by an app you touch on screen "but" it's nothing like those bluetooth wireless apple car play devices. That said there is an audio lag from sound so people talking looks funny, and that might not be an issue to others but I am talking to manufacture about a fix so if that issue fixes itself I really don't have anything bad to say about this radio. To be clear though I got the largest memory ram package you could get for internal processing speed so that probable dodes help.

 

I'm pretty sure the AR2 can only work with maestro-integrated amplifiers (a few Kenwood and Addison amps) BUT because you are replacing the radio, you actually dont need an interface module. Just RCA cables from the new radio to the new amp.

For the front speakers, don't get the 3-way components; just get the 2 way
For the rears, get a matching set to the fronts. I believe you can get the KS speakers as a plug-and-play kit from trailgridpro to simplify things.

I saw the word Capacitor, and I just beg you not to use one lol

 

Oh I assure you no capacitor here! Unless I am wrong if I don't use factory wire loom then I need to run all new wires to each speaker as well correct? that's why I was hoping to use the loom and not run new wires. RCA's are not that bad of a run if that's all I am doing. As for the 3 ways I follow you on what your saying however I want to make sure you know that those particualr 3 way speakers allow for individual replacment so I was going to put tweeters in the dash and speaker in door. Unless I am reading that speaker setup wrong and that is more than interelly possible lol. Thanks for the response, I will look into the amps that work with that adapter, I started too look at the reviews for that amp and I am not too convineced on it. Sounds like too many bells and whistles and they probably never got one thing amazing but settled for everything working okay.

Edit*** I jsut did a deeper dive into those speakers and they have inline crossovers in the wiring which is nice for space but kinda tricked me because I did not see any box style crossover so that was my confusion. Ultimatley I was trying to get all speakers into a 4oh setup and I think this setup gets me that to make amp purchase a little easier for 4oh

 

I just want to quickly update I looked at the adapter and it says

• works with all aftermarket car amplifiers
  • at least 5 or 6 channels of amplification recommended for typical installations
  • vehicle-specific T-harness provides 6 channels of RCA input and speaker wire output connections for the new amp
  • Toslink digital output for connecting to compatible amp or DS

However I am not so sold on that amp so I am currently looking at others so suggestions welcomed. 8ch gives me the abilty to push the dash speakers properly without having to adapters or electronics for them. 6ch works but would need to probably get a differnt fornt door set with crossovers for tweeters

 

For the fronts, are you intending to drill new holes and everything to mount a new tweeter? I don’t personally think there will be enough of a difference to warrant all the work. Plus, you’ll run into a lot of issues with timing and alignment, having tweeters in the door and the dash. It usually creates a pretty muddy soundstage, and requires a pretty hefty DSP to handle everything appropriately. I think that will fall outside the scope of this system. There are a small handful of 3-way setup threads in here so definitely check them out and see if it’s a route you want to go!

if you purchase a component set of speakers, it will include passive crossovers, as they expect you to power them off 1 amp channel. It won’t require any additional electronics or anything like that.

I didn’t do much digging on the AR2 so you may be right about the universal amp compatibility. I may be thinking about the original AR, but who knows. You still don’t need any interface module, regardless of amp choice. The new radio will connect to any amp via RCA cables.

look into the PAC harness to utilize all the factory speaker wires. Works perfectly
https://pac-audio.com/products/aph-ty01

 

Actually to adress the front tweeters I have the jbl package so I am going to put the tweeters in the oem spot in dash and with that adapter to stay with original speaker wires I should only have to wire in the in-line crossover and use original wires so these component speakers should still work.

So the PAC Harnes is actually the same as AR2, a module is needed with that vehicle specific wire harnes included and thats basically what I did with the AR2 I have the module and vehicle specific harnes to allow me to re-use speaker wires so I think if you are wanting to use original speaker wires then regardless then an adapter module will need to connect to the amp harness and then the vehicle specific wire plugs into module and then has individually labeled wires for each speaker to plug into amp. I will look into the PAC but when I was choosing everything through crutchfield they seemed to have some compatibilty issues with JBL systems and the AR2 said it worked and was compatible but I am just getting into research so I will for sure give that a look. If you think I am mis-understanding that harness link you sent me then please let me know but I beleive you still need a module that is $300+ as well so to me same-same. I will say if I was re wiring all speakers then yes I would not need to mess with a module but... if it's a choice I would rather go click...click and then just plug wires into amp and be done (no pulling all door panels for every speaker). It's a luxury cost so I get that not everyone would do that but it's something I do not mind getting for the overall ease of system install.

 

So after digging into the AR2 more I found this

• Factory Amplified System: The ADS-MAR2 and a compatible T-harness will be installed at the factory amp location with the ADS-MAR2 providing 6 analog RCA output channels that can be connected to your aftermarket amplifier. Data signals from the factory radio (fade, balance, etc.) will be read by the AR module and retained. The T-harness connects the amplifier's output channels to the factory speaker wiring.

honestly this is exactly what I want, but it's not very clear if I can use the RCA hookups if I have aftermarket radio. there are 2 connectors that did not plug into my aftermarket radio which is now making me think the abilty to use the RCA's off the module might not be possible and i would need to run 3 new rca lines to amp location. I was going to do that from beggining but if by the off chance I can use the RCA's from mudule then I won't need to run new RCA's... Kinda wish I did not upgrade my head unit lol, but running wire to under drivers seat isnt that bad at all.

 

I think you may have a misunderstanding of some of the parts, which is understandable because they dont make it super clear if you're not familiar with how the whole system works

In the JBL system, there are a few parts
-The head unit (radio)
-The amp
-the speakers and subwoofer

there is a computer in the jbl radio that sends a digital data signal to a computer in the jbl amp. the jbl amp decodes this data signal and converts it into an audio signal. it then amplifies that audio signal and powers the speakers

when you replace the jbl radio, you have to install a module to convert the new radio's audio signal to the data signal that the jbl amp needs. this module usually also handles retaining the steering wheel controls and some other functions. PAC, Metra, and Maestro all make versions. this is most likely what you have behind the radio now.

in a different scenario, people will keep the jbl radio but replace the jbl amp. this is where the PAC amp-pro or the Maestro AR come into play. they get the digital signal from the jbl radio and covert it into an audio signal and send that to RCA outputs to feed an aftermarket amplifier.

in your scenario, you have already replaced the jbl radio and now are replacing the jbl amp. you will still need the module behind the radio to retain the steering wheels controls, but you wont need the maestro AR because you dont need to convert the data signal from the jbl radio anymore. you just need RCA cables from the new radio to the new amp. no need for data modules at all. if you use the maestro AR, you are essentially converting the signal at the radio, then converting it back at the amp. you're using a $330 part to do the job of some RCA cables.

that all brings you to the PAC harness I linked to. this is just bare wires that allow you to connect to he factory speaker wires back at the JBL amp location. you unplug the connectors from the amp, plug in this new harness, and connect the bare wire ends to your new amp speaker outputs (or extend them to reach your new amp location if you're mounting it somewhere other than the back wall)
The harness itself does not require any module, but is often used alongside the module for those keeping the jbl radio but replacing the jbl amp. that does not apply to you, so you would just need the harness itself.

so all you need to purchase is the APH-TY01, and 3 RCA pairs to reach from the radio to the new amp. you can get 6ch RCA cables where theyre all bundled together and I recommend those. Stinger, T-SPec, NVX, Skar, and a few other reputable brands sell various lengths.
you will probably need a roll of speed-wire (18awg multiconductor cable) and this will let you extend the wire leads from that pac harness to reach your new amp.

 

Ok I see what you’re saying. I read too much into the info on the harness and it said you needed a module but of course that’s assuming your keeping the stock radio which I am not. So really only a couple questions for you… My new radio was Tacoma specific so I actually have retained all of my controls like voice and Siri and fading so I was am thinking my radio included that. If that’s the case then yea I save $300! and really it’s already spent because I added sound proofing package for Tacoma doors that’s same price so thanks for saving me that. I figured I was running new amp power wires with fuse from battery right? I was assuming the jbl got power from the canbus connectors.

My only last question is should I do a 4 channel and and a mono amp and get a different subwoofer. I’m thinking no because I don’t want to change the sub box and I think the one I selected is the only thing that fits without a change. I’m ok with modifying and it still fits back there but not looking for a new box. Thanks for all your help!

 

Yes, you will still need appropriately sized power/ground wires for the amp/s you choose. The JBL amp has direct power, but I believe it is only 20A so not suitable for anything like you're planning.

I would personally do a 4ch and a monoblock. This lets you get the right amp for the smaller sub in the factory enclosure, but be easily upgradable if you decide you want a larger sub down the road.

 

Yes exactly! That’s what I was thinking. The alpine 6ch is nice and suited almost perfectly but I need to do more research of subs and see if there is something else I can upgrade to and get a larger mono amp! Thanks for the replies! Now I just need to order and install.

 

Well after a bunch of reading and searching I came to the conclusion that "why do all this effort for one sub when I can do it for 2!" So insert picture and now I guess I am adding this box with 2 Rockford Fposgate P2D4-10 with 2 Rockford Fosgate amps (Power T600-4 / Punch P1000x2). power front and rears seperatley with a 2 channel amp in bridged mode for sub. The speakers are Kicker 2 ways in front and 2 ways in the back. I really want to bite the bullet and get sound proofing for the floor and ceiling but I think I will save that for later time and just do the doors because of the kit I can buy on all 4 doors. I looked at the padsI can buy and I would have to do a bunch of cutting so this makes it easier.

 

Can I ask if I need to still plugin the other end of harness into factory amp? It kinda elludes to that happeneing as the description for that harness says you need to plug into factory amp too. I am wondering if that is because your still keeping factory amp then I get but in my head as long as the wires are connected to new amp and rcas I should be getting all signals I need. Is there some reason for my setup I still need to plug original amp to harness? with my new sub box I don't think I have any room for that. Thanks again!

 

Should be able to leave the jbl amp out since you’ve replaced the radio and amp and all speakers

 

I would recommend adding sound deadening to the rear wall and under the rear seat prior to installing the subs. I don't think there is much benefit to doing the rest of the floor pan, so if you just do the area around/beneath the sub enclosure you can cross that off your list.

 

Good suggestion. Luckily I had the same idea so I got some for all doors because I’m there and the back wall. I actually have a safe under the back seat so when I do this process I will look good at to what I can do. I would rather not pull up the safe but if that’s what I need to do then I’ll do it.

also just an FYI for anyone interested but all my gear came in and I am on vacation but the last thing I am waiting on is the box enclosure and that I might be waiting a few more weeks unfortunately. I probably will update post with everything I have ready for the install process

 

Dont waste your money on pre-cut sound deadener for the doors, it's not a gucci fashion show...
Also correct me I im wrong, the pre-cut stuff is just for the door skin that the door panel mounts to...
The more important panel that needs to be deadened is the inside of the outer skin...
Thats the skin that keeps the music going the correct direction....
Youre not going to get pre-cute stuff for that as youre sliding it in different size sections depending on area of door & access hole size.