K and N filter help

Hey Guys,

I have a 2nd Gen 07 model with a cold air intake, it has a K and N style Air filter.

I have two questions:

does this one need replacing?

and what would be the best tool to get to the Hose Clamps?

I live in an apartment complex and am trying to minimise my tool purchases. I’m a bit of a mechanical noob.

 

Yikes, people still use those? Yes, it needs replaced... With stock. You can use tin snips to get to those hose clamps, then you can get a stock set up on there.

 

You are going to have to spend some serious money, or make a trip to a bone-yard, to replace the K&N setup with the OEM stock setup. As a point of reference, one part that you will need (the Air Filter and Housing Assembly - part number 177000P013) runs over $580. Once you get rid of the K&N setup, the OEM setup requires two 10mm bolts be removed, and two clips be unfastened to remove and replace the whole assembly.

 

Kn FiLtEr BaD

You can use a ratchet to loosen the smaller clamp, then go to Autozone and get a replacement cone filter. Spectre brand is made by the same people as K&N but considerably cheaper.

 

K&N filters are not very good at filtering and foul MAF sensors. To answer your question though.

Try just removing the accessible hose clamp. Most likely an 8mm (5/16") head. A flat head screwdriver will probably also work.

Instead of just getting the individual tool(s) for the job I would get one of those small "mechanic" sets... get a metric sized one though... rarely will you if at all be working with imperial sized stuff. Even on American vehicles. Trust me.

You don't technically have to replace that filter. Verify it's actually a k&n, most likely it'll be stamped on it somewhere. If it is then you can clean and re-oil it. They're meant to be reused. My advice with them is to be very very sparing with the oil when you re-oil them. Only oil the outside of it then let it sit overnight to see that it soaks through to the inside. If you need to touch up a few spots then only do it from the outside. DO NOT oil from the inside.

 

Was that the filter setup when you bought the truck? I hear you about apartment, budget, new to wrenching etc. Good on you for asking and good pics of the problem. As you've probably gathered, K&N isn't favored here, for good reason. Yes, you should replace it, but can just clean and re-oil if nothing else.

How does the truck run currently? Any issues that led you to look at the air filter? Routine maint?

The hardest part might be getting that thing off. See if you can rotate the filter so that the clamp screws are easier to get to with a screwdriver or socket. Find out if there is an equivalent paper filter element. Stick it on and fugetaboudit. Maybe squirt the MAF with some cleaner

I hope it's not more complicated than that for you. If it is, TW is here to help...mostly.

 

No wiser words spoken

 

I've run several K&N's in the past and never had MAF issues. Don't over-oil the filter and you'll usually be OK in that regard.

I switched to AFE dryflow a while back to eliminate the possibility, even without ever having the issue before. I do swap out to paper for trails though, and am considering the Dobi snorkel for my "trail rig" (T4R, Gen4 V8) which is a build in progress (but aren't they all).

You might also look around to see if you can find a green foam replacement for that K&N model, I forget the brands that make the foam filters, if you're mostly or exclusively driving on pavement.

 

Thanks a lot guys,

yeah I bought it like this with the Truck.

Truck runs well, had it looked over by a mechanic who did a service and said that it runs really well for the age. So I guess I’m lucky there.

 

Stubby flat head screwdriver to remove the hose clamps. Replace with a dry type cone filter that matches the existing dimensions.
Check your MAF and clean with appropriate spray if needed.

I've had issues with oiled filters fouling my MAF in the past. Best not to use.

 

1. KN oiled engine air filter is not advisable. Nor is a hot air intake which is what that looks like. Factory is cold air.

2. Every person with a vehicle should have a $50-100 basic tool kit always in that vehicle. Such tool kit would operate that clamp bolt.

 

I must have missed the part about him selling his taco, to me it just sounds like someone who’s not as mechanically savvy as you needs some advice.

 

Hey Mate,

I’ve got a tool kit, just that the bolt that is inverted I couldn’t get to with my tools. So was seeking some advice.

 

Worst case, you can keep the K&N setup but get a better dry type cone filter for it. I feel like AFE? used to make a similar air filter but their system didn't used oiled gauze filters.

But just know that your "cold air intake" is really a "hot air intake" because it pulls from the engine bay. The OEM air filter pulls from the wheel well which would be cold air.

 

I see the typical K&N haters arrived quickly. There is nothing wrong with a properly cleaned and oiled K&N. The problem is that most people don't know how to properly clean and oil them. I raced with K&N filters in very dusty conditions for 18 years and never saw abnormal wear. I've used them in my street vehicles for at least 35 years now, most of which (bought new) had over 165k on them when traded/sold, and all ran as well as new.

That filter needs to be cleaned! It also looks like it's been installed by a hack. That other closed cell foam seems to me to not belong and is a hack way of getting the job done.

Since you aren't very experienced, I'd suggest checking eBay for used parts to go back to stock. It's your best bet. There aren't many parts needed and you may get by on the cheap.

 

that bolt is probably a hex with a center Philips head. Use a hex or a Philips head.

you could put a 1/4 drive short socket.
Or take a Philips bit. Into a ratchet whether adapter or not. Or stubby Philips screwdriver. To fit in the tight space.
Or fitting wrench. Worst case pliers. Both are narrower than a socket.

or pull the cover off and take the whole thing off rather than trying to access the filter while it’s installed.

I have a KN re usable washable high airflow cabin filter. Non oiled.

engine I have a regular filter. Snorkel with Syklone pre cleaner. To take intake out of the dirt wheel well, pre clean it, and position it out of dirt. And allow water crossing. No hot air.

probably the solution. Why it’s used on military and construction vehicles among other things.

stock filters last a decent amount of time. No washing or oiling.

 

Can you rotate the filter (by hand) so that the head of the worm wear bolt on the clamp is facing up? That would be what I would try first. If the filter doesn't budge I would try rotating the clamp to achieve the same thing.

Once you have access to the head of the fastener you can use a screwdriver to loosen the clamp. You can also use a hex socket (it's probably around an 8mm) with a ratcheting wrench which tends to be easier if you have the room.

And K&N filters are technically "fine". The upside of using one is near negligible though and the downside is you're letting more particulate and contaminants into the engine than a more robust filter does (like OEM).

 

I'm surprised K/N filters are still in business.

 

I have used K&N on several engines over the years. As stated, they do need regular maintenance. Also, I have NEVER run one without installing the pre-filter sock. Never run just the base filter.

 

Managed to wrangle it off with a stubby and replaced with a dry filter.

Thanks for the suggestions all.