Need help getting the rest of the parts to replace my turbo

This is what my Garrett turbo should look like, but look at the below picture of the actual turbo piece that I have.

 

I believe this is my turbo here, a Garrett GT3071R ,

 

Looks like yours is intended to run without a filter, velocity stack style. Cool but not good for a 4x4. Filters are nice.

 

I have a filter on mine , let me upload a better picture

 

Looks sweet.

 

So, I have been in contact with a guy that has been in the business for 40 years , building rebuilding manufacturing turbos and he told me that the best turbine exhaust housing is a .48 A/R T31 4 bolt and the .50 A/R input housing. It would make the best response out of the 3RZFE 2.7L engine.

 

Genuine Garrett T3 Based, T31 Turbine Housing, .48 A/R with 2.5" 4 bolt outlet, fits Stage III, 76 trim turbine wheel commonly found on T3/T4 Garrett turbos.

 

This is my turbo, but with the dual air feed holes to the compressor cover, those holes go down to the side of compressor wheel for additional flow into the side of compressor blades. (Benefits faster air flow)

Charlie Brown (Evergreen Turbos) :
“Well, if you want really good throttle response you want the .48 AR exhaust housing.”
I am curious to see what he pairs these parts with when I get the complete turbo back.

 

So, after many phonecalls and emails and TEXTS to Charlie Brown here is the end results for my application.







According to him this is the best option for my application and to get the most out of the 3RZFE engine. This setup is inlet A/R .50 and outlet A/R .48 and I am going to have a lot Low,Mid and High end power. Gonna bolt this bad boy on next weekend.

 

The turbonetics housing is actually bigger!

 

Nice.

 

WOW

so yall boosters……
Do you have to do anything (ratio wise) with rear end?
Stock can handle extra HP?
Thanks

 

The 'open' diff is very strong. I would expect to have axle issues first.

 

Really?????
I had no idea

assuming 4X4’s (front/center) just as beefy?

 

I don't have any experience running a ton of power through these drivetrains but they are robust, I would think that at double the stock power level its fine. But as usual it's the nut behind the wheel that makes the difference, some people just break stuff...

 

Stock is all good, I do believe up to 600Hp on an E-Locker diff.

 

Incredible
Good info

used to cars grenading pumpkins/snapping drv axles bc of extra HP

damn, knew tht 2/3RZ’s iron blocks bulletproof but did not know drive line same beefiness
Thanks

 

Not sure about the 4cyl transmission, I know it can handle quite a bit though. But I'm putting 405hp and 482lb of tq down at the wheels with my turbo V6 and my rear 8.4 third member and axle shafts are doing fine. Driveshaft is the most weak component in my estimation. I've launched my truck on the two step rev limit in 4wd just fine too. Definitely have to put in a beefy clutch though both the stock clutch for the 2.7 and a 3.4 are pretty lame