Need help with engine running hot

I’m having trouble with my 5vzfe running a little warm. During idle it’s running around 204-205. I did a short drive about 2-3 miles and it climbed to around 215-220. When it broke over 220 I parked and turned off the engine.

Looking online most people are saying there 5vzfe runs between 180-200 while google says 195-220 is normal range.

I have had the truck for a few years and run around 205 normally. I recently finished replacing the head gaskets. While everything was torn apart I placed checked the thermostat which looked in great shape. Per Timmy the toolman head gasket video and everything I read online I placed the jiggle valve at the 6 o’clock position hoping to keep it cool. After everything was placed backed together I flushed the engine with distilled water till clear and replaced with Toyota pink coolant using a no spill funnel letting the engine come up to temp and then getting all the air out of the engine.

I completely replaced the engine about 6 months ago with a remanufactured engine so I’m pretty sure all the parts are new when they sent me the engine.

No cracks or leakage during idle and no coolant on the ground after letting it sit overnight.

Any recommendations thoughts on where to go from here would be super helpful

 

You replaced the head gaskets, & then replaced the engine?
just want to verify you didnt do head gaskets on this new engine?
How many miles on the truck?
Pretty simple if you feel its truly getting hot...
Rev engine from under the hood & see if the fan is drawing air, significant air?
If not, throw a fan clutch at it.
Could toss a factory toyota tstat at it & make sure the spring is pointing down,
Seen plenty of "professionals" install them backwards....
If all else fails, youre radiator is internally plugged due to high mileage & needs to be replaced, not keeping up with the heat from the engine.
Also verify you dont have a bunch of dirt / debris in front of the radiator & in front of the ac condenser....
If you do, flush it out, from the back going forward first using garden hose.

 

Dude I just read your engine fiasco thread, I feel for you!!!!
As an engine mechanic for Ford for 32 years, Ive seen everything a few times over, I feel your pain....

 

I appreciate the advice and will take a look in the morning.

Long story I replace the head gaskets a year ago on the original engine. The past year I developed a small leak and ended up cracking the block at the engine oil pressure sensor. Talking to a welder he said that he could try welding it but I would need to pull the engine and couldn’t guarantee it wouldn’t continue to crack further.

So last fall I bought a new “remanufactured” engine from car parts planet and installed it myself. Things ran fine but had 3 small oil leaks from between the heads and the block. I contacted car parts planet and they said because I didn’t have a professional shop install the engine it wouldn’t be covered by warranty. So all winter I drove with it without issue only loosing about a quart in 2000 miles. It was more of an announce that I was getting on stains on the driveway and street where I parked.

So I took the last few days and tore down and completely cleaned the heads and block and then replaced the head gaskets with higher quality MLS head gaskets. While I had the heads off I had them machined and pressure tested which was probably overkill but don’t want to do the head gaskets a 3rd time. No cracks but they did say they both heads were slightly warped which probably was the cause of the leak.

2 days and lots of cuss words the truck is back together but now dealing with this issue.

 

I dont know about toyota but on fords most of the time the head gaskets are labeled / stamped one way or another for correct orientation on the engine.
something like right / up & left / up....
then theres a stamp showing front...
Just cuz you put them on & they fit doesnt mean its right...
This part is very important as theres small passages that can be blocked off & shouldn't be if not installed correctly, like coolant passages.
Not sure if youre aware of this...
If you weren't, call the gasket maker & have a conversation with them.
When working on cars right & left is always as if youre sitting in the car....
Even if youre working on it,
right side is always passenger side, & so on...

 

Radiators are not that expensive... if yours is original, 20+ years old it probably has internal blockage like slater says.

 

The head gaskets are 100% on the right side. I spend a good amount of time making sure gaskets were labeled correctly to the oriented heads and the holes correctly matched up. I followed Timmy the tool and video to a T on the head gasket change. With that being said I did notice that on the new MLS head gaskets I installed some of the passages were purposely blocked off. Timmy also makes a note of the same thing with his head gaskets in his video so I didn’t much of it.

So I’m taking your guys advice and going with a new radiator. I’m seeing quite the difference in price from eBay/Amazon around $70-110 up to $250.

Is there really that big of a difference going cheap vs expensive ? I really don’t want to slap a bandaid and deal with another radiator issue in a year or two. After getting burned with going with the cheapest engine I’m willing to spend a little extra on parts.

 

Good to hear about the head gaskets, atleast that part isnt being questioned now!
Inregards to radiator brands im sure theres many on here that know way more than me...
Did you check the brands available on rockauto.com?

Dont think you really need to go crazy & get an all aluminum radiator....
Did you verify fan clutch is pulling air & not just free-wheeling?