Overlanding first build

Hey Boys,

I've just paid off my 2020 TRD sport and want to set it up for some overlanding/camping.

I will have 1-2K extra weight due to:
Canopy, Roof Top Tent, 2 yakima platforms, gear (Fridge, power, fuel, water, kitchen, etc, etc). With a couple more bodies in the cab I'm getting up there in weight. I want to run this a few days off road 3-5 times per year. I'm not technical, no rock crawling or snorkeling. I will be letting air out on the backroads. The rest of the time it's my daily but I don't commute.

So - suspension tires and wheels please. I'd like a 3-2 lift, 33" tire, 17" wheel with a poked look so a negative differential on the wheels. I want a more aggressive look then what I have but realistically, it's my only ride so not to loud, not too stiff, as goldie locks said... Just right

My Tire shop was trying to sell me on an inexpensive lift kit that probably uses a lot of the original stuff because it was only $300. He did say it has a spring. I was thinking of something more serious.

Method wheels 304 or 305? BF KO3 all terrain tire, with a lift kit of some type. This is the hard part where I know nada. Dobinsons has well reviewed kits for $1800 Rough Country is half the price? And if I get a package online I still need it installed and should probably order thru a shop? Does this forum have local shop referrals?

Any advice is much appreciated.

 

I'll let the high weight, overland rig guys answer but heavy duty leaf spring replacement is a must for 1-2k lbs added weight and holding it up 2" at peak rear weight.

 

Welcome to the forum!

What part of the country are you in? If a shop will be doing the build for you (installing everything), it's best to find that shop to work with up front and then talk to them for suggestions. Most shops that install parts will only install what they sell, but some do have exceptions.

The kit the tire shop was selling would have been a leveling kit. That will not be what you need. Like @Mrcooperou812 said, you'll need stronger leaf springs in the rear, and a full suspension is going to be $2k or more with all the right parts, and something quality that will ride well and last with all that weight on there.

On this forum, click Forums>Regional discussions and find people close to you for assistance with locating a shop with real reviews.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/forums/regions.36/

 

I see a Mariner's cap on in your pic. You in the Seattle area? I could recommend a couple shops around here.

 

What ever you do, look for parts at fb marletplace, offer up, Craigslist, etc. people found out likes it’s not worth the amount of weight and bunch of coin they drop on their trucks. Cheers

 

With that much going into it why not just get a used tear drop trailer? It will be infinitely more useable and probably give you more space than trying to tack everything onto and work out of the truck bed. This is coming from someone who essentially did what you’re proposing.

Not to rain on your parade, but if I was doing it all again in one shot instead of piecemeal I’d totally just get something to tow. It makes getting up and exploring around the camp site, going into town, whatever, so much easier when you can just drop the trailer and come back. Setting up and packing up a full overland setup gets old fast, especially in inclement weather

 

To mod a Tacoma to properly (and safely) handle 1-2K lbs extra weight is not a simple task. That's a full send. Like if the number $10,000+ for suspension and wheels alone scares you, you may want to rethink this.

You need a full suspension replacement, including UCAs and Hammer Hangers. You're looking at custom tuned 2.5 shocks all around. Which is like $3-4k right there. Plus $1k for leafs, $1k for hangers, $1k for UCAs. $2k for wheels and tires. And that's just parts. Install is on top of all that, and 33's require cutting and welding stuff. Then you still need to purchase all the bolt-on's you're talking about.

Like TS4x4 mentions, using a trailer would probably be a better way to go. Then you don't need to beef up your Tacoma as much. It's way easier to mod it for towing and would be far cheaper.

 

I'm only running 32s, but 33s would fit fine with a CMC if I went that route. I'm running far heavier than she's talking about and am only running the below. The Deavers/5160s/tires are estimates on what they'd cost to buy today (as I paid less a few years ago for them). The Bilstein 6112s are about a year old, and can still be found for similar pricing.

Deaver U402 Stage 3 - $1150
Bilstein 5160s - $600
Bilstein 6112s - $1,114
5x E-Load Duratracs - $1,700

This all adds up to $4,564. That's nowhere near $10k. Install would be extra, as the suspension was installed in my friends garage,but tires include estimate for install.

I'm not a proponent of going as stupid heavy as I am, but I have had no issue running like this for 10s of thousands of miles, and a large portion of those is towing 4500 pounds behind my Taco. I don't do any extreme wheeling with the camper loaded, or at least what I'd consider extreme. I still flex the truck out. No upper control arms have been needed, but could be to get proper alignment and fit for 33s. With all this weight I also paid to have my truck re-geared, but if not towing, the truck would do fine. Re-gear was about $3500, and that still doesn't get to your $10K estimate. And I'm not trying to argue with you, just saying that all the items you listed aren't absolutely necessary to haul around 1 or 2 thousand pounds reliably. They're all great ideas and great upgrades. And note I said reliably back there, I'll never say SAFE, as running past payload is never a great idea. Wife and I hope to have an F450 next year to takeover camper and towing duties, and the Taco can go back to being an offroad toy again. But over 100 nights in the camper in the past 3 years, and many miles on it. AT Habitat before it, that really wasn't THAT much lighter, lol.








The below is without the 800 pound ATV in front of the SxS that I've towed from Seattle to Vegas and back with a stop in Utah in between.

 

I have that same hat, but mine not White anymore… Welcome, before I even bought my truck i was on hear reading & reading & looking. Also watching YouTube to see what worked & didn’t for other people. Everyone has opinion, i went with TRD Lift & 265-75-16. & keep my “Glamping” stuff light, start easy & build up from there..

 

Impressive rig!

I mean, if you wanna trade safety risks for costs savings, sure. That's why I said properly and safely handle that weight. You could technically bolt 2K onto a stock Tacoma and it would technically be driveable. But it won't be safe or perform very well. So I would argue that the prices I gave are in fact absolutely necessary if OP wants to do this safely. How much they want to risk to save some money is up to them.

 

There’s no need for UCAs, hammer hangars or new wheels to have suspension that can support that extra weight. Heavier leaf springs to support the weight and better shocks to dampen the movement in the rear - easily done with off the shelf Deavers and 5160s. Balance that with 6112s in the front and it’s not unsafe at all.

 

Did you read OP's post? They want 3" lift (UCA required) and specifically mention new wheels. If you are adding over 1000lbs to the box, you are asking a LOT of the factory leaf hangers. They flex under much less of load. And 5160s and 6112s are not valved to handle that weight and you can't revalve 5160s. Not saying they can't work. But they are not designed for it and it adds risk. Not having enough dampening can be dangerous and can actually make the ride more harsh.

What part of "properly and safely" are people not understanding here? I never said there weren't other ways to accomplish it. But I'm also not going to recommend that OP half-ass this and use parts that aren't designed for the task. If someone else wants to, go ahead. But don't pretend like the end result is going to be the same thing.

 

So you 'heavies' just ignore the Gross Vehicle Weight stickers?

Because that's about more than changing suspension and tires.

 

A lot of people ignore it outright which is a big mistake. I just do my best to take it into consideration, knowing that it's going to have a lot more wear and tear on components and to keep up on stuff, bearings, brakes, transmission fluid, etc. I also keep it in the truck lane and drive the posted limit. My first trip with it all I didn't stick to the limits and the gasoline use was insane. Ever since I've taken it easy on the HWY. Lotsa stopping distance, etc is important. When offroading it, I drive SLOW. I run with a group of folks who go bashing trails full tilt with their heavy RTTs and every overlanding piece of kit possible and I refuse to try and keep up. If they want to break their rig, that's on them. I'm gonna putter along even if that means walking speed. I'll get there. I also plan trips/trails to be within what I'm comfortable taking the heavy setup on, and how far I'll be off the beaten path if something breaks.

And again, I really look forward to a new, bigger truck, that will help put the payload worries behind me. But until then, I'll keep using the truck as I have been. And I won't suggest people go running over GVWR, but if they're gonna do it anyway, I'm happy to let people know what has worked so far for me.

 

OP said “3-2”. 2 keeps it in the K.I.S.S. category less mod’n & still capable of what OP wanted. Just my 2cents.

 

Thanks, taking notes. Leaf springs on the must have list.