Engine Reseal / Installation Prep

I’m going to be trying to quickly reseal my donor engine in a few weeks and I’ve done this before but it’s been 7 years and there might be better / cheaper options out there now. What I want to do is:

Timing Belt - Aisin w/ tensioner / belt / H2O pump
Cam / Crank Seals?
Rear Main Seal - New OEM
Input Bearing - New OEM
Clutch?
Throw Out Bearing?
Starter - New OEM
Valve Cover Gaskets?
Rad hoses / Heater Core Hoses?
Heater Core Valve - New OEM
1 or 2 new bell housing bolts - OEM

What I already have in new or like new condition:

Drive Belts
Idler pulleys (at least the upper one with the green bearing if not the lower one with the red bearing)
LCE heavy weight flywheel
Starter core
Alternator
Exhaust and manifold gaskets

Mainly curious about deals on valve cover gaskets that aren’t bad quality, suggestions for clutch kit and TOB (I bought the one below 8 years ago and it’s still new but I’m not sure it’s as good as an OEM / Exedy / etc). And Cam / Crank Seals @Speedytech7 told me NOK makes the OEM but they’re as expensive as OEM. Most timing kits that have the sealshave stuff I don’t need like the idler pulleys and drive belts.

 

I’ll chime in for rear of engine
U got it covered with rear main seal and clutch kit
Disc/OP/throw out AND pilot bearings all are a must
If u want the fancy LCE fly wheel….understood
You can definitely cut some cost if you have machine shop resurface your own FW
$40 I paid in 2021
Sure it’s would cost $50-$60 nowadays

 

Pull the seperator plate and look at the core plugs on the back of the block while it is out.

 

So a few parts are left over from when I installed this engine in my 1st gen paperweight back in 2018 which never got on the road and then got swapped into my wife's 4runner. DT headers, LCE clutch, TOB, and flywheel were all purchased in 2017 and have 0 miles on them still. The main thing is I don't know whether the LCE clutch (aka clutchmasters rebranded clutch after researching it) would be as good / better than getting an Exedy / Luk based on my more current research.




I'm going to need part numbers for all hoses and seals, bolts etc. I'm going to look on here https://partsouq.com/ or I might swing by my local dealership and make a list of numbers to then order online.

Are these freeze plugs or something similar? I don't know if the seperator plate from a manual vs auto is the same - I still have mine from my og manual trans / engine combo that I'll use for the donor (from an auto).

 

@Speedytech7 et al.,

Oil looked normal. Engine is upside down and I checked the oil pickup screen. Looks good pretty much? Should I spray it down with brake clean or engine degreaser (aerosol can, not spray bottle) before I reinstall the oil pan? I’ll do it with the engine right side up so anything that comes out flies out and not back into the engine if so. @Speedytech7 since you said with the oil drained, it’s ok to have the engine upside down - will it do anything if it’s been that way for 36-60 hours? It hasn’t even been leaking out of the spark plug seals. Should I spray anything intro the cylinders if they’re slightly filled with oil when I flip it over right side up?



Everything’s pretty well degreased on the outside - just have to pull the old timing gear and install valve cover gaskets. I plan on using Permatex ultra black on the oil pan and valve cover corners (getting the finger tight and waiting 2 hours to fully tighten down) - does that sound like a good process? Thanks for the help y’all.

 

I would spray your pan out to clean it up nicely but don't waste your time on the oil varnish in the crank case unless you're going to take the whole thing apart, it won't make any appreciable difference. I usually use Toyota black and wait about 15mins for it to skin over then tighten it up when it comes to sealing the oil pan and valve covers. I doubt there will be much if any oil in your cyls after flipping it back right side up, if there is then there's a good chance it will drain back down and that's a decent sign your rings are fairly worn.

 

Yeah it's my preference to have the oil pan completely clean and I'll be repainting the outside since some of the oven cleaner I was using to degrease it took off a little in places. So don't bother spraying out the pickup screen or just brake clean it when I flip it back over?

 

That screen barely has anything on it, you could spray it while it is right side up but it is in no danger of clogging as it sits right now