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Tensioner pulley swap vs. tensioner assembly swap

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by KittenCarrier, Mar 19, 2025.

  1. Mar 19, 2025 at 2:56 PM
    #1
    KittenCarrier

    KittenCarrier [OP] Stop honking, I'm crying

    Joined:
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    Dustin
    Charlottesville, VA
    Vehicle:
    2015 Tacoma DCSB TRD Sport
    Current: -OME 3" full suspension lift w/ HD springs -Diff drop, sway bar relocate, driveshaft spacer -JBA UCAs -CVJ offroad OEM CVs -RCI sliders and full skids (LCAs, engine, transmission, x-fer case, x-member) -Prinsu roof rack -KB Voodoo 18" longbed modular bedrack -Smittybilt XL RTT -Cali Raised LED ditch lights and pod lights -CB and HF winch Planned: -285/70/17 soon... 285/75/17 curious. Keeping stock 17x7.5 wheels (spaced 1.25") -Rear and front Eaton E-lockers -Regear to 4.11 or 4.56 (depends on if I go to 34s) -ARB front bumper -Outgear Solutions rear tube bumper
    I redirected this question from
    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...pentine-belt-on-a-2005-2015-v6-tacoma.845944/

    Maybe this was discussed elsewhere. I couldn’t find a good answer after searching, but please link other relevant threads if I missed something.

    Got 208k miles on my 2015 4x4 v6. I regularly swap the diff and transfer case fluids, transmission fluid, and do the scheduled maintenance tune up (plugs, pcv, throttle body and maf).

    Soon I’ll attempt some ~200k miles maintenance (perhaps overkill - suggestions welcome) including:
    -new brake and power steering fluid (not so relevant)
    -new thermostat and gasket
    -new water pump and gasket
    -new radiator hoses and clamps
    -new radiator cap
    -new belt
    -3 new idler pulleys
    -new alternator (it is starting to whine with AC)
    -new tensioner pulley OR new tensioner assembly (growling bearing in tensioner pulley)

    I’m going all OEM. @babylon5 recently suggested trying out this tensioner pulley with a koyo bearing, seemingly OEM equivalent:
    https://rodavictoriausa.com/product...ioner-idler-pulley-oem-2014-2019-pu107016rmx/

    My questions: with 208k miles should I just replace the tensioner pulley or the entire tensioner assembly? Why? Does the tensioner spring or do other components in the tensioner assembly tend to wear out in addition to the pulley?

    Context: I’m trying to put another 200k miles on the truck… but pulling the entire tensioner assembly requires moving the AC compressor which looks like a PITA.
     
    Last edited: Mar 19, 2025
  2. Mar 19, 2025 at 3:51 PM
    #2
    eherlihy

    eherlihy 2009 Access Cab TRD Off Road

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    Pulling the entire tensioner assembly does require unbolting the AC compressor, and IT IS a real PITA. Unless the belt is slipping, I would replace the pulley and bearing only. 13mm REVERSE thread.

    Remove the skid plate, put the front on jack stands, remove the left front wheel, and the splash guards to get at the bolts. I posted a complete procedure for this (with bolt sizes and torque specs) back in December/January.
     
    winkel and KittenCarrier[OP] like this.
  3. Mar 19, 2025 at 3:53 PM
    #3
    DoubleB

    DoubleB Well-Known Member

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    I replaced just the pully and bearing a few years ago. Still going strong!
     
    winkel, skee and KittenCarrier[OP] like this.
  4. Mar 19, 2025 at 3:56 PM
    #4
    eherlihy

    eherlihy 2009 Access Cab TRD Off Road

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  5. Mar 19, 2025 at 3:58 PM
    #5
    KittenCarrier

    KittenCarrier [OP] Stop honking, I'm crying

    Joined:
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    Dustin
    Charlottesville, VA
    Vehicle:
    2015 Tacoma DCSB TRD Sport
    Current: -OME 3" full suspension lift w/ HD springs -Diff drop, sway bar relocate, driveshaft spacer -JBA UCAs -CVJ offroad OEM CVs -RCI sliders and full skids (LCAs, engine, transmission, x-fer case, x-member) -Prinsu roof rack -KB Voodoo 18" longbed modular bedrack -Smittybilt XL RTT -Cali Raised LED ditch lights and pod lights -CB and HF winch Planned: -285/70/17 soon... 285/75/17 curious. Keeping stock 17x7.5 wheels (spaced 1.25") -Rear and front Eaton E-lockers -Regear to 4.11 or 4.56 (depends on if I go to 34s) -ARB front bumper -Outgear Solutions rear tube bumper
  6. Mar 20, 2025 at 6:56 AM
    #6
    ridefreak

    ridefreak Well-Known Member

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    minor tweaks
    I replaced the tensioner pully by itself also, no drama.
     
    winkel and KittenCarrier[OP] like this.
  7. Mar 20, 2025 at 7:20 AM
    #7
    TacoTuesday1

    TacoTuesday1 Well-Known Member

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    If you ask me, I would do (and did) at minimum: compressor, alternator, and tensioner

    I did the tensioner while doing the compressor. It was not much work after the compressor was out of the way.

    All of the above components wear with time and miles and none result in a good time if they fail. I’d rather replace them before they fail then go through that which would also add higher cost if breaking and time inconvenience.
     
    KittenCarrier[OP] likes this.
  8. Mar 20, 2025 at 7:24 AM
    #8
    anthony250f

    anthony250f Well-Known Member

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    My tensioner was making noise. Was a pita for sure. Do the bearing
     
    KittenCarrier[OP] likes this.
  9. Mar 21, 2025 at 6:01 PM
    #9
    KittenCarrier

    KittenCarrier [OP] Stop honking, I'm crying

    Joined:
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    Member:
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    Messages:
    11
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Dustin
    Charlottesville, VA
    Vehicle:
    2015 Tacoma DCSB TRD Sport
    Current: -OME 3" full suspension lift w/ HD springs -Diff drop, sway bar relocate, driveshaft spacer -JBA UCAs -CVJ offroad OEM CVs -RCI sliders and full skids (LCAs, engine, transmission, x-fer case, x-member) -Prinsu roof rack -KB Voodoo 18" longbed modular bedrack -Smittybilt XL RTT -Cali Raised LED ditch lights and pod lights -CB and HF winch Planned: -285/70/17 soon... 285/75/17 curious. Keeping stock 17x7.5 wheels (spaced 1.25") -Rear and front Eaton E-lockers -Regear to 4.11 or 4.56 (depends on if I go to 34s) -ARB front bumper -Outgear Solutions rear tube bumper
    Damn. It’s tough to argue with swapping critical wearable components after 10 years and 208k miles… I had actually been considering doing the compressor too. Haven’t attempted this before and I’m a little intimidated tbh. Got the tools, I like to wrench, but don’t have much space to work - the apartment admin sent passive aggressive emails to everyone last time I was wrenching.

    Might be time to put some $ aside and pay a shop. I’m guessing they’d charge 3-6 shop hours to do water pump, rad hoses, thermostat, alternator, idler pulleys, tensioner and compressor? Plus AC service of some sort..
     
  10. Mar 22, 2025 at 6:50 AM
    #10
    TacoTuesday1

    TacoTuesday1 Well-Known Member

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    The only tricky part is access to an A/C machine whether you involve a shorter bypass belt to limp it along as part of the process (if that’s even possible)
     
  11. Mar 22, 2025 at 4:47 PM
    #11
    winkel

    winkel Well-Known Member

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    I wouldn't replace the compressor unless it's giving you trouble.
     
    ridefreak likes this.

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