how to change sparkplugs 2TR-FE

Sorry for resurrecting this one - but wanted to say thank you to OP and others. I did this for the first time today and it took a whopping 45 minutes. Super easy and, at 133k miles, my truck feels at least a little smoother now!

 

Changed mine out for the 1st time yesterday at 100,936 miles. Their gaps were all very close to 0.032"

 

Just posting for another data point for fellow 2TR owners.

Swapped plugs on my 2011 this weekend for the first time. Truck has about 105K miles, was running great, just replacing plugs per maintenance schedule. After seeing the old plugs, I'm glad I did. Some notable wear on the ground strap of all the plugs. Nothing crazy or concerning, but the 100K mile interval is about right.

For the new plugs, went with the NGK Ruthenium LFR6AHX-S (94122). They were only about $2/plug more than the factory Denso's, so figured I'd give them a try. I'm hoping they fair even better than the Denso's over the next 100K miles.

For the installation of the new plugs, used anti-seize on the threads and torqued to 18 ft-lbs. No perceptible change in how it runs after the swap.

 

I'm planning on changing my plugs in the next few months, and looking at the torque specs- it shows 80 ft./pds. for the coils.

80 ft./lbs. for a little 10mm bolt? Hell, the lug nuts are 83 ft./lbs.



I have this horrible vision of stripping off the heads at 80.



At 12:25, the Car Care Nut states that the coils only need to be "snugged down".

How to change Toyota Spark Plugs on 4 cylinder engines


any opinions, or anyone have any bad experiences stripping off the heads at 80?

 

80 inch lbs. or 6.66 ft lbs

 

that's inch pounds not ft/lbs

 

okay, thanks!

Why can't they just state torque specs consistently in ft./lbs.

 

Because foot/pound torque rating for tiny little fasteners makes no sense generally

As in, torque wrenches marked in ft/lbs seldom go down to 6.6

 

Thank you!

 

Because if I tell you the torque spec is 1.45 lb-ft on bolt A, then 2.1 lb-ft on bolt B how are you going to get those torques in? Lb-in is for smaller fasteners and lets you fine tune your equipment. There’s even oz-in. It’s consistently in N m (newton meters) if you fancy the metric system. The bolts might get along better too. Also fun fact, ft-lb is a unit for work, the unit for torque is actually lb-ft.

 

"The Car Care Nut" as far as I'm concerned is always the way to go - he's honest and knows what he's talking about.