What Have You Done To Your 3rd Gen Today?

Getting ready to put a bed cap on so I decided to take a peak inside the tailgate. Added some sound dampening sheets, 3M Thinsulate SM200L, and wrapped with some polyester carpet.

 

Supervisor has to make sure your work is up to snuff.

 

Just curious - I get the carpeting, but why the sound sheets and the Thinsulate?

( BTW, your helper did an excellent job! )

 

Honestly, I just have some extra of both and when I opened up the tailgate to get the edges of the carpeting in there, it was all this hollow space that I thought could benefit from both. I'm going to be sleeping in the bed once the cap is on when driving cross-country and it's usually in cold climates so I figured, while I have it opened up, might as well shove some insulation in there. I was originally planning on putting the thinsulate between the carpet and the plastic tailgate cover, but this seemed like a cleaner (and less bulging) solution.

 

Sniff

 

I had the same issue with my pop and lock, when I opened up the tailgate and checked it out I noticed the mechanism was trying to work but the pressure on the lever was too much so I backed off the screw that tightens down the lever arm a little and everything started working fine and has been for over 1.5 years now.

When the temp changed from cold to hot I think the plastics just expanded a bit and made it harder with the extra friction to open.

 

Thought about typing it that way but thought it was too on the nose

 

Front diff, rear diff and transfer case gear oil changed.

 

Nice, how many miles on the truck? Same weight oil in all 3?

Looks like FL area, am I right?

 

Finished up my drawer slide system over the last couple of weekends. Few more things to do for the electrical system portion, but its working and happy with the end setup so far.

 

Greetings from Largo!

I have 35,000 on there, I was meant to do it at 30K but life got busy and finally got everything I needed to do this.

I did end up going with Redline 75W85 that has the same weight as OEM. It wasn't as easy as it would have been with the squeeze pouches but I figured I'd get the closest I could to OEM. For the transfer case I went with Redline MT-LV since I have a manual transmission.

 

OK - gotcha. I had a cap on my old truck. I’m planning to add a cap later, and it’s going to take some work to seal up the bed on the 3rd gen. Good luck with your project.

 

Great looking Red Nose shop foreman!!!!!

 

Greetings from Brandon area!

Looks like you are near enough to the specified interval. I got my 75k service coming up probably this summer so I'll be doing the same, again.

 

In case the newbies haven't found this nice Service Interval chart, I'll post here. I think it is a sticky thread in the 3rd Gen area.

 

Added the last skid. RCI aluminum t-case skid.

 

Ordered a Rek Gen bed mat.

 

I know WD-40 is very popular as a liquid lube, though not sure how it got that reputation, since it is a Water displacement spray, more for drying out ign. wires than to actually lubricate. It does serve well as a mild solvent, so for dried grease it would work better than just adding oil; but even for this, brake clean is a faster prep, where it is safe to use.

Anyhow, my go-to for penetrating or liquid lube, is Boeshield T-9. Comes in small bottles (some are labeled as bicycle chain lube), and comes in spray cans. This stuff clings very well, creeps well also, and has fantastic anti corrosion properties. I got introduced to this product in the airplane building and maintenance circles, where it is highly regarded.

T-9 is also possibly the most recommended product for anti corrosion of amphibian aircraft, that will be used in salt water. For this you coat everything with a thin film, and it is so good a creeping, that it is reported to find its way in to all the laps and joints, providing great protection. I wonder how it's performance would compare for use as annual undercoating?

One warning though, something about the properties of this lube, clogs the nozzle on spray cans, if they are not used frequent enough. So I use the squeeze bottle most often (ensuring my spray will be clogged when I need it, ha).

Anyhow, great liquid lube, will definitely last longer than WD-40 in any pivot joint.

 

What's the thickness of the steel and aluminum on those skids?

 

Agree on your comments on WD40 and on T-9. I use the T-9 on a bunch of stuff exposed to my nearby saltwater environment. CRC 6-56 is another good multi-purpose light lubricant with many of the same properties as T-9. I'm currently using that on my saltwater outboard engines under the cowlings. After use/periodically hose them down with Salt-away, let them dry and then hit metal surfaces, wires and seals with 6-56.

IMHO, both T-9 and 6-56 are too light for an undercoating but I've never tried 'em...