Common valve clearance numbers?

Yikes! did not expect this on my 3RZ. Double checked, rotated crank 360 multiple times to TDC. Should lobes be straight up opposite of valve or as long as service manuals followed (pointed sideways sometimes). I also have some oil pooling at #3 exhaust cam which is almost the tightest spec recorded. Coincidence?

I think I'll just pull cams with how many I have (severely) out of spec

Numbers are abbreviated FYI. ex: 8 = .008, etc

 

Straight up away from the bucket/shim. There is a slight ramp on the cam to ease the valve open and where it starts on the lobe is a tough call.

 

appreciate it - I’ll re do it that way simply to confirm and see if any of the specs change. I get WHY Toyota service manual one way, but that’s to save time with only a few rotations of the crank

 

Call me jank but I've sanded down the shims then repolished them to avoid paying for and waiting for shims. Intake looks good exhaust is way tight. the oil pooling might be a valve stem seal. I would try to figure that out so you can change the seal while you do the shims.

 

When I was working on Ferraris, the early ones had the bucket/shim valve adjusting system, it took quite a bit of time on every valve job to get the machine shop to do what I needed them to do... to set the valve installed height no higher than this and no lower than that. I had to disassemble every valve and check this myself so that in the future you wouldnt find yourself in a situation where there wasnt a thin enough shim.

 

cylinder 3 is red alert......close to burning a valve there

 

yessir, thank goodness I pulled the cover for that cover gasket leak. taking measurements for Shims

 

All my research says its not a seal (yet) as my truck runs excellent, no codes, no nothing - I think I was getting close with exhaust so goddamn tight, but luckily I caught it. Now I am actually happy my valve cover gasket had a leak and forced me to check

 

me and others here have a bag of shims......might get lucky

 

...

 

Double checked my math (and measurements with Toyota's #5 "270" 2.7mm shim as a control), looks like I'm screwed lol. Unless someone sees an error.... gunna correct what shims I can and just deal with it till I need a new head. Don't see what else I can do for now. Mayve have shims milled down even farther to get me by? It's honestly confusing because my truck was running great! No codes, misfires, rough idling, hard starts, etc.

on a side note: was super easy to remove exhaust cam following FSM procedure to properly un bolt bearing caps. If you have a whole exhaust side to do - this is a no brainer. First time doing this and it was easy as hell - I don’t know why people fuss with the tool unless they have 1 or 2 valves to adjust.

 

Good sir, looks like i'll be diving into a new head soon. Got shims for 5/7 out of spec valves - but nothing I can do about the smallest shims already in Cyl 1 front and Cyl 3 front exhaust. Hopefully ties me over. No more manifold, fresh ignition, coolant has been brand new + koyo. Praying...

 

lol I kinda of want to do this to 2 of my exhaust side shims - #1 and #2 fronts have the smallest Toyota shim already - just wanna buy myself time before new head

 

I put the number side down so that the cam doesnt wipe the thickness off. This is so that when you have to replacea shim you can pop the shim, look at it and put the correct one in, no need for a micrometer.

 

I agree, not everyone does this though then you have to! (Like whoever had my truck previously)

only a few had Toyota markings