Borked it and need help

I completely borked the installation of Biltein 5100s in the front. The top nut on the shock was absolutely impossible to loosen. I've been wrenching on stuff for 50 years and this one got me. I tried all my usual methods and ended up drilling and cutting the nut. It still on the shock but ready to come off but I don't have the room to do it in the truck so I removed the mount and shock as a strut. I'm carrying it around like a loaded and cocked pistol.
Now the problem. I removed the upper mount and didn't index it.
On the other side, I'm was having a problem getting the upper shock bolt to line up and extend far enough to fit the rubber, the washer and the nut. I removed the upper mount to see whats going on and of course, didn't clock it either.
My question----how do I determine the proper clocking of the upper mount, spring and upper rubber.
I'm going to bring the shocks, springs and hardware to a shop tomorrow and pay whatever it takes for them to un-fuck my fuck up.

Utube university made it look really easy but I've been fighting it all day.

 

Been in your shoes a few times, sucks!

 

The bottom spring pocket sets the spring index. The top hat should sit on the flat top of the spring with the rubber isolator. Mine had compression marks from the spring, I just put it back the same. The top hat only has to be turned so the three studs fit into the upper mount. I would have to look to be certain, but I remember that 2 studs go in the back, parallel to the frame.

 

There is another thread with a pic, two studs are out, towards the wheel.

 

The 3 studs go through the frame. The rubber cushion rotates. The bottom of the spring is fixed in position but the top hat can go in 3 possible positions and it is not symmetrical.

 

Good luck Jeff.

It'll all work out in the end, and your gonna love the 5100's.

 

I'm looking at the top hat again and I appears to be symmetrical. I also can see a small hole in the brim of the hat that lines up with dirty/hole spot in the frame so problem solved. Damn Utube university steered me wrong again. Really looking forward to these shocks. A buddy put them in his Taco and I felt the difference immediately. A nice firm, controlled ride. It didn't wallow around like a 78 Caddy.

 

I'm sorry to hear of your troubles, but it's refreshing to know that this stuff happens to GOOD wrench turners too.


I'm doing mine in a couple weeks and am gonna make my 13 year old help me, so I'll be sure to check back in if/when it's my turn for an internet nut kicking.

 

Jobs is done. I don't know how the Utube dude did it but it is impossible to raise the LCA enough to re-compress the spring and get the top of the shock into the mounting hole. The truck will lift before the spring compresses enough. Anyway, I hauled the old shocks with springs and the new shocks over to a neighborhood auto shop and had them swap the springs for me. Removing the shock/springs as an assy is pretty easy as is re-installing it. I then brought the truck back to the shop and had them do the alignment. I really like the improvement in the ride quality and the small lift looks good too.
I marked the inner and outer LCA bolt cam positions but I don't know if this is necessary. I forgot to ask the guy doing the alignment.
Mark the alignment of the upper shock mount to the frame.
Loosen the 2 LCA to frame bolts, remove the lower shock bolt, remove the 2 lower ball joint mount bolts (but not the ball joint) and lower the LCA down and out of the way. Remove the 3 upper shock mount to frame nuts. The strut can now be lowered down and out.
Do one side at a time in case you get as easily confused as I am.
Good luck. Don't try to do the springs yourself and you'll do just fine.