Keeping your 2.7 alive and well!

I want to compile a more centralized list of seemingly mandatory services and parts to replace that keep an otherwise healthy 3rz alive and well. After devouring research from brilliant minds on here much smarter and wiser than myself, it seems multiple (ignored) parts of this engine contribute to burning valves prematurely... hopefully this helps some folks having it all right here instead of digging through thread after thread...

After coming to grips with my #3 exhaust valves being .005/.006 at 161,000 miles with the SMALLEST shim Toyota makes already (thanks previous owner!), it's made me want to prevent this from ever happening again when I swap a new head on. Had I known about this problem a year ago, I might have been able to save it. @Speedbeagle has lots of good info on this known problem compared to its brother the 3.4 5vz

#1: Adjusting valves regularly. Some say every 20-30k, some 50-60k but it needs to be done regularly to catch a potential problem. Avoiding it is borrowing time and eventually you'll roast a valve and/or wear out the valve seats in the head causing them to recess like mine. How quickly depends on how well the truck is taken care of outside valve adjustments... see #2-5 below

#2: Keeping temps down (coolant): check your coolant, thermo, hoses, stay on top of radiator and grab a new one if you suspect its gunked up like mine was even if you don't have glaring overheating issues. Hot motor = higher chance of roasting valves and possibly head gasket too. Could be fine one day and screw you the next. Pretty sure this was what happened with my truck with the previous owner and started off the excessive valve wear. Dude had proof of regular oil changes but doubt he ever changed the coolant out and it sat idle for a few years during his ownership + he did a head gasket which points to overheating. Luckily my Koyo radiator replaced the old crappy one.

#3: Keeping temps down (EGR): make sure EGR is functioning properly and not gummed up and same goes for the ports at the intake. Mr. @O'Silver_Taco talks about this often how critical the EGR system is to keep head temperatures down and this includes exhaust side. Hopefully he can chime in with his wisdom - you the man!

#4: Keeping temps down (exhaust/cats): cracked OEM manifolds = not sending heat away from engine or cats are gummed up/rusted out sending heat up the chain instead. 100% would replace with aftermarket or OEM steel mini header. Toyota did it for a reason 2001+. Obviously this doesn't apply to you if you have a 01+ truck that comes standard with the mini header.

#5: Clean lubrication: obvious but stay on top of oil changes, use good oil, maybe even step up to a w40 instead of w30 if you live in a super hot high desert area or just run your truck hard. This is more debatable and I'm not super well versed here so simply a suggestion I will try as well come summer since i'll be trekking through some hot areas with a less than perfect 2.7 until I can replace the head. It's well known OUTSIDE of America, heavier weight oils are recommended in these engines as those countries don't deal with strict CAFE emissions standards like we do here. Is 5w30 the "best" or just what Toyota is required to recommend here in the states? I'll let you decide... I have my thoughts but either way just make sure its high quality and frequent!

#6 (ADD ON): Clean fuel: I can't say just how bad a nasty fuel filter affects the valves, but if yours looks anything like mine (scroll down in thread to see) I doubt it's helping and can only stress the system out more causing wear and tear overall. At the very least your injectors hate you and will go out faster. Change your fuel filters!



Anyone knowledgeable on this subject add on to what I wrote as you wish! Would love this help people out with a such a common problem with the otherwise bulletproof 3rz.

 

Hey thanks for this very helpful information. I will be taking over my fiance's dads tacoma with a 3rz in the near future. Im sure her dad never did any of the recommended maintenance on it. I know he would take it to a mechanic back when he was driving it but im not sure how trustworthy that mechanic was. Any way I use the truck here and there since its parked at our house and it runs great. Ive done some work on it here and there but now that we are going to take over it I really want to put some work into it. Again thanks for the info and I will definitely keep an eye on this thread

 

Ugh
Both u and OS just convinced me to clean (firstly) my EGR…#3 bullet point.

I was all gun ho a while back, even bought all 3 gaskets. But she’s been running tip top

Need to re-visit
Thanks lineman!

 

Absolutely! it's pretty quick and painless minus the EGR crossover section of the tube that runs behind the block - there's a bracket that's a pain in the ass. I'd honestly leave it off once you remove it - EGR pipe is super light so it's not like it'll be torquing on the studs on either end at the intake or header/manifold.

no problem! and FYI my truck runs excellent - this whole thing came about the last few weeks when addressing a valve gasket leak I decided to check clearances and measure everything. Glad I did! Let's hope the few valves I did correct keep this thing alive before new head. Luckily she runs super cool with Koyo rad, new OEM mini header now (manifold was cracked), etc. Healthy motor minus the valve clearances!

 

here’s the little bastard FYI… you’ll spot it with a flashlight at the back of the block when trying to remove EGR crossover tube

 

how hard is it to check the clearance on these? I have many years of wrenching as a hobby but Ive never check clearance on any type of valves.

 

Before it went in… ceramic coated

 

Is the bottom of the tube removable like the top? To an exhaust port?

 

checking clearance is easy… pull valve cover and grab some feeler gauges. Must follow factory service manual steps though before - aka making sure each cam lobe is raised up allowing a measurement to be taken.

Easy way to do this is following the service manual to get TDC (top dead center) via the crank. I attached PDF of it below for you if you have a 2.7 3rz!

 

So EGR crossover tube is a solid metal tube that runs from the manifold around the back of the block to the intake runner - this is how it delivers exhaust gases to the intake. They are held in place by (2) nuts per side on studs.

Example below of new studs on mini-header

fresh gaskets will be needed after

 

A firm

was a major PITA to get top off last time
IIRC was intake/plenum removal/cleaning

 

yeah that little lip on the clasp itself is a f*cker for sure - I just left the bracket off. Again, it's such a light pipe and the studs are so beefy comparatively speaking it'll be fine.

For new guys with old cast manifolds - please be aware you might unbolt the nut WITH the stud like my truck it was so rusted over. Be prepared to buy new studs/nuts - speaking of here's some part numbers for ya'll that also go to the o2 bungs as well fitment wise.

I've compiled and cataloged every part # for my truck so if you need a part # let me know and i'll post them