Which hubs for manual locking hubs?

Hey everyone. This is my first post on the website. I have a 1996 Tacoma 4x4 with AISIN manual locking hubs. Currently i’m replacing my wheel bearings and wheel hubs but i’m not sure which wheel hubs i need. I purchased two new ones from Ebay that say they fit my model and VIN but they look different than the ones i have on the truck currently. I’ll post pictures of the ones i have and the ones i ordered. Anyone with experience know what i need? It seems the one i ordered doesn’t have the studs for me to attach the locking mechanism for 4wd. Thanks

 

Those are the correct design, not sure if they are OEM to match part numbers but only one comes tapped for studs. You have to buy new studs or transfer over your old studs to the new hubs.

Not sure if you pulled it out but you are missing the rear (inboard) brass bushing on your old one as well.

 

@zippsub9 Thank so much for the knowledgeable response that’s the information i really needed to hear right now! That’s reassuring to know about the brass bushings, i wondered about that because i saw them on the hubs from ebay and it different from mine at home. i believe these bearings had been replaced before by a previous owner, they must’ve done something with them.

Do you have any advice for a novice like me for transferring over the old studs? I’m in a crunch and need to get my truck back on the road and i’m not sure if i can wait for new ones. Thanks again

 

If you are anywhere near upstate NY, I can help you. I use a stud remover/replacer tool. There is an old trick use two nuts tightened together to turn them off but they are solidly in there and it is a pain in the butt. If you use heat it will help tremendously to break loose the old studs, but then of course, you have to do the same thing to install them in the other one.

If you really need your truck back on the road then just install the hubs and bearings as they are. You only need the outer locking dial for 4WD. You will be fine without them in the mean time waiting for studs or a stud remover tool. Just make sure to put the washer, c clip and bolt with washer on the end of the CV after poking them through the hub.

 

@zippsub9 If i was closer i would definitely take you up on your kind offer to help. but i’m in North Carolina so i’ll just have to do what you said, just put it back together without the locking mechanism. Thank you so much for all the help.

 

OP just out of curiosity, why are you replacing the hubs?

 

@Parkvisitor Originally I planned to just do the bearings but part of the old bearing got stuck on the hub and I had to use an angle grinder to cut it off, in the process I put a deep cut into my hub. I would LOVE to save the money if i could, do you think it would still be useable even with the cut? Ill send a picture of how deep it is.

 

Replace the one thats damaged, use oem seals and bearings. I believe theres a special tool to torque the brass nut.

 

It just serves to support the bearing races, but I wouldn’t do it. Probably, yes, should you, no. Too many YouTube videos out there with “good” ideas. Bearing splitter removes that lower race that remains typically 40% of the time. Adding heat and a penetration lube helps also.

Those brass bushings are just bushings press fit onto each end. There is no special tool and they are not sold separately anywhere. You would need to have one machined or buy a whole hub anyway.