Front end clunk clank click

I’ve got a 2012 4x4 OR and for a while I’ve had a metallic “clank” when I hit speed humps with any kind of speed. Lately I’m getting a clunk and clicking noise when turning sharply into my inclined driveway. Same with reversing out.

I got under the truck and started pushing pulling on the sway bar, tie rods and CV axles and noticed the driver’s side CV axle has quite a bit of play side to side where it mounts to the diff. Maybe an 1/8” movement. Should this be super tight? The passenger side is rock solid.

How does the axle bolt to the diff? Is it as simple as removing the flat cable clamp securing the boot, pulling it back and tightening the bolts?

The truck is a daily and I used it pretty heavy off road hunting this fall. Diff fluids are all fresh synthetic. It has the factory TRD PRO 6112 lift I did a few years ago. Radiator body mounts look to be in good condition.

thanks!
Brian.

 

That play is normal on the drivers side.
If it’s too loose, you’ll get vibrations. If it’s really loose, you’ll get a leak.

As for how it’s held in.
You ready?…….It’s held in with a circlip.
It literally clips in and out. It can not pop out on its own. So don’t worry.
The other side of the axle along with the spindle, is holding it “in”.

Again. Nothing to worry about as far as the axle goes.

I’d check the ball joints and control arm bushings first.

 

I appreciate the advice. Maybe I’ll start hitting the bushings with penetrating oil one at a time with a day or two between. When the noise stops I’ve found the worn bushing. Truck has 90 000 miles BTW.

 

Try tightening the lower control arm bolts, mine was making the same noise and that fixed it.
Make sure the truck is on the ground and make them super tite.

 

The drivers side front LCA bolt took maybe a 1/16th of a turn to get the torque wrench to click at 100 ft lbs. The rest clicked right away. I might throw a breaker bar on there and try to get a smidge more than 100. My torque wrench doesn’t go any higher.

 

Upper and lower ball joints were weeping grease. Sucks there is no zerk! The boots felt pretty empty.

 

I'm late to the thread but my money is on the ball joints. Your latest comment seems to confirm. I had similar clicking/popping sounds on mine (aftermarket) because they were a bit low on grease and adding grease solved it.

Since you are likely running the OEM upper arms/ball joints you'll have to inspect them a bit more for play. If too much play maybe it's time to replace them. If you replace, search classifieds and maybe you can find some OE takeoffs from 3rd gen with low/no mileage.

If you stick with the ones you have, search for the process to grease a sealed ball joint. You'll need to get a needle adapter or attachment for your grease gun to do it. You could try this first because it's a really cheap fix and no harm if it doesn't work. Good luck!

 

randumb…

•put a little grease on the steering stops

•make sure the disc shields are clean/straight/tight

 

I tightened the LCA bolts to a smidge over 100 ft lbs and went over every bolt with a torque wrench. Everything clicked except one of the LCA bolts which needed a little tightening. My aftermarket skid setup had loosened a bit from all the rough off-road treatment hunting and I cranked that down too.

Quick test drive and it’s quiet again. Good advice on the ball joints. I have a grease gun but I’ll pick up a needle adaptor and get a few pumps into the boots.

Thanks for all the advice guys.

 

If you haven't already, I'd recommend swapping out your skid plate bolts to grade 5 or grade 8. Keep a little oil or grease on them as well. I'm sure this has nothing to do with the noises you're hearing but will keep you from breaking bolts later due to them being soft and rusted into place.

 

Have you solved it?
I might have the same issue.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/clicking-sound-front-end-video.855444/#post-30534329

 

I’ve changed everything on my 08 (uppers, coilovers, lower coilover bolts, spindles, steering rack) from regular maintenance or upgrading except the lowers which were used oem with 100k miles on them several years ago. I’m guessing it’s the lower ball joints on mine. Ymmv.