Tapping into bed lights

So if I understand correctly the T connector that @daveesa sells would work for my intended purpose as long as the LED's I choose are of a low enough amperage? I apologize for my ignorance on this type of stuff, but I've just never done any mods involving electrical work.

 

I have an option without relay (if say 2 amps max, 3 if you like living a little dangerously)
And then I have an option with a relay (which sucks b/c it's mostly a big box of heavy wire so shipping is silly) if you need more than that, it'd give you up to 12 gauge x 30' which I never remember so I always look it up, well beyond anything you would do within reason as far as LED lights go.

The order form has options and pricing. They aren't hot sellers. I can also do the relay under the hood with a long trigger off the bed light connector which is an OK option for rock lights. It's too bad we don't have good clean strong 12 gauge power easily accessible back there already.

 

So the simplest option would be just running a harness up the frame to the battery, then a switch into the cab? I'll have to look up options on the light pods to check if any of them are even low enough amperage to make the other option viable I guess.

 

I mean, the simplest is one 12 gauge to the battery with a fuse within 16" of the post to protect the wire, use the factory ground above the wheel on the frame, throw a high current waterproof switch in a hole you drill, and have anytime light for camping. Just have to remember to flip it off when you're done and don't drain the battery.

From there it just gets funner and funner with relays, illuminated switches, etc.

 

If you get very low amp lights, you could tap into the cab illumination circuit for fused juice. It has the feature that after 20 minutes of vehicle being shutdown, it turns off that circuit to preserve battery.
I haven't verified if it resets the 20 min if the switch on the cab lights is "recycled". (20 min up - circuit shuts off, switch to OFF which ever light was ON, then back ON to get another 20 min)

 

Thanks for this, this sounds pretty simple to me. For someone with little electrical knowledge I think this would be the way to go.
I appreciate all of the replies, and ideas.

 

Resurrecting old thread with silly question. It works as intended with the cargo rocker switch, spliced directly to the cargo lights harness. Can't seem to find spec on the wattage of the bumper LED, should I be concerned for blowing a fuse or frying the wires!?

 

BD S2’s in the bumper? They are more than I would do without a relay and fused power but I believe the bed light circuit is fused at 5A so I don’t think you’ll overload that even with 2 S2 pros.

My personal rule is limit added current draw to 1A, anything over that should have a relay.

 

I'm not sure of the brand, I'm doubtful they're Baja as the whole bumper costed $370 lights came with the bumper pre installed, based on my research they vary from 10 to 40W.

 

You’re spot on. That’s why most of our kits connect to the battery and include a switch that runs into the cab. This way, you have full control over your light, turning it into more than just a backup. If you’re not totally sure whether you need a relay, you probably do—whether it's our lighting or not.

Best,

Brahian Herrera | Forum Sales & Support
Email: brahianh@bajadesigns.com | Phone: (760) 560-2252 Ext 201

 

@millcho another advantage of using a relay is it makes it easier to have multiple triggers. You could hook these lights up to come on with the reverse lights as well as a manual switch, on top of the cargo lights. All will one relay, 3 diodes.