Air trapped in brakes 3rd gen Tacoma Offroad

Hello everyone I'm hoping to get some help with my little issue I have on my 23 Tacoma TRD 4x4 Offroad. Long story short, I bought my Tacoma on a salvage auction and had to completely rebuild the front end along with replace the whole frame due to the extent of the damage. While replacing the frame I noticed my passenger front brake line was leaking a lot of fluid so I capped it off and continued with the removal of the cab. After putting the whole truck back together and bringing it back home I still hadn't bled the brakes but did not have any of the fuse box or electronic hooked up so I decided to bleed the brakes without any power. After doing so I had a solid pedal but after I started it for the first time and trying to move it I realized it seems the brakes were stuck. So I thought I would just bleed it again to take out any remaining air in the system so I did. I did from farthest to closest and I noticed the back brakes were a solid stream no issue there but once I came to the passenger front and loosened the bleeder I heard the trucks brakes release and it moves forward an inch or two. After doing the driver front I hoped in and drove it and it seemed ok so I decided to try crawl control and after doing so and switching it back to RWD all of a sudden the brakes got stuck again. I have tried many ways to bleed the system but just can't figure out why it only happens after activating crawl control. No codes are coming up and I've inspected the whole brake system and everything is fine so my only conclusion is there is still trapped air.

My main questions are:

1. Are the brakes supposed to be very sensitive like I felt on the first drive or just trying to park where you barely push the brakes and the truck jerks.
2. Is crawl control supposed to be very noisy it almost sounds like its broken especially at the slowest speed.
3. When switching into 4hi or 4lo is it supposed to be very clanky and very jerky when shifting into drive or reverse. (I heard when shifting into 4hi to do it while the truck is moving and I tried it today and it shifted like butter but I know you can't do that in 4lo so I just want to know if its normal.)
4. What is the step by step procedure in bleeding the whole brake system master cylinder, accumulator/booster, and brake lines.

 

Could be bad calipers ….i would try removing the calipers . Get a rebuild kit and repair them . It’s a simple process rebuilding the calipers .

 

The first drive with surface rust on rotors should be super grippy. Should improve quickly.
I would jack up the front and spin the tires by hand with the truck idling. Push the brake pedal hard, then try to spin by hand again. If one of the wheels won't spin, then something is wrong. Could be bad caliper or hose, or maybe something else in the system. In any case, wheels should be free after releasing the brake pedal.
Crawl control automatic braking is noisy.
Shifting into 4hi while driving straight should not be too bad. Might need to turn slightly to get it to engage. Sometimes a slight clunk.
4lo is a pain to get engaged. Usually a clunck when it finally engages. I typically have to roll in neutral slowly and turn wheel to get it to finally engage.
I've only bled brakes the normal way, but if the master cylinder was ever empty, you'll probably need a computer to bleed the abs system.

 

Bleeding an OR brake system that has had open lines requires a computer to open the valves.

 

Since you have an OR Tacoma, there is a special procedure.
Found this out when I installed front PowerBrakes big brake kit.
To bleed the brakes some would say that a special tool/scanner is needed.
However, there is this great YT video that shows you how to bleed brakes for a TRD Pro or a TRD OR. No special tools needed. Bleed procedure worked like a champ.

2016 - 2023 Toyota Tacoma brake bleed #toyota #tacoma #brakeservice

Since one of your front calipers is bad, I have a set of OEM calipers with 60 kMiles.
Yours, just pay shipping.

 

The only reason I don’t suspect anything physically wrong with the brakes is because first off it’s a new truck with 22k miles and second before I took the cab off and replaced the frame the brakes were working perfectly without an issue which kind of makes me assume that there is air in the system instead of something actually being wrong with it.

 

Thank you ima try the video today and see if that works in anyway and hopefully nothing is physically wrong with the truck and that it’s just air trapped in the hydro mechanical brake master.

 

Does it have to be a specific computer? I have an obd2 scanner and a pretty good one at that I think but I’m just not sure how to open the valves on it.

 

The only time the brakes get stuck is after I activate crawl control which makes me suspect air stuck in the accumulator or master that is forced out when using it. But I do notice that even just trying to park the truck in a spot of something that every now and then when I press the brake the little motor it has turns on. Is this normal for the motor to be constantly turning on?

 

Air in the abs is what I would assume. I’m no expert though.

 

As shown in this video is for Pro's and OR

2016 - 2023 Toyota Tacoma brake bleed #toyota #tacoma #brakeservice

The first step is to have the ignition on, truck not running, and the brake pedal depressed
Then open one of the rear brake bleeder valves, that causes the ABS to detect a drop in pressure.
The drop in pressure causes the ABS pump to come on.
The ABS pump then pumps out the old fluid from the ABS pump and the reservoir.
For the back brakes, did this procedure several times per side.
Since I was using a clear drain tube attached to the bleeder valve, I was amazed how much air came out of the system, as seen through the clear tubing.

 

You'll need Techstream (or any scan tool that can actuate the ABS solenoids) to bleed the system of air properly, and the Toyota factory service manual

ETA: Crawl Control sounds like a robot whale orgy

 

Bad caliper(s) in a one year old truck?
Negative.

As mentioned by everyone else, OP needs his brakes bled properly.

 

Normal crawl control is noisy.

 

Update I have the trucks brakes bled enough for it to drive and move around but I’m realizing they are sensitive as hell like I can’t make smooth short stops the truck just jerks and I wanna know if this is normal or it’s also because the issue I have when I use crawl control and the brakes get stuck.

 

So I’ve got the truck drivable and took it on its first drive in months today the brakes were very sensitive at first but they slowly started getting better. After a few minutes of driving I could’ve sworn it felt like the brakes were dragging again but I paid no attention to it and continued driving. After a few more minutes my dash lit up like a Christmas tree and it said the abs was having an issue. After scanning the codes when getting home two came up. C1422 Master Cylinder Pressure Sensor Zero Point Hight and C1456 Control Pressure Sensor Zero Point high. I checked the rear brakes and they were fine not warm but when I went up front my driver and passenger brakes were both radiating heat and I felt like the passenger front had a little more heat then the driver.