Front and Rear Lockers

I just picked up a Tacoma to get deeper into the forest. Scored a great deal since the front diff needs to be replaced. I figured that since the diff has to come out anyway, I might as well go for it and convert to ARBs now.

For those of you with experience, what brands have you found to be the most reliable? Any advice as I head down this rabbit hole?

Currently running 265/75R16 Wildpeak A/Ts, and I’m thinking about re-gearing while I’m at it.

 

I'd go electric personally, only reason is that electric is all I have experience with (factory locker), and I don't wanna deal with an air compressor/ air leaks.

 

I installed a Harrop locker in my '13.

Can't comment more than that since I have not used it yet. But I appreciate not needing to have an additional compressor.

 

I went the budget route and put a Torq autolocker in front. It’s only been a year but I’ve used it pretty hard and have no complaints.

Being an autolocker, it does have some drawbacks, but it was a fraction of the price of an ARB or Harrop.

Definitely get a selectable locker if budget is not an issue, but if you are tight on cash, an autolocker will still put a grin on your face.

 

Thanks, budget isn’t a huge concern. I just want something reliable as I get more into off-roading. As for the air compressor, I actually see it as a bit of a plus, since right now I always have to air up after getting off the trail.

 

Yea I don't have time for that, what is air down?

 

There's no reason to regear with that tire size.

I'd recommend Harrop/Eaton over ARB. Seen ARBs fail to engage a few too many times due to air line issues.

Figure out what tire size you actually want before regearing and installing a front locker. If you're planning on sticking with 265s, it's a little doubtful that you're running trails that would really necessitate having a front locker (with a rear locker, bigger tires, and/or better suspension), and the money is probably better spent on finding a good condition front diff at a Pick-N-Pull and improving the suspension.

 

Sage advice OP. You'd do well to listen to it. Use the truck and wheel it for a bit before re-gearing. It's a buy once cry once thing for sure.

As far as the lockers go. ARB all day.

 

Two ARBs here. Have put dual ARBs in two previous vehicles as well... Also installed one for a friend. None have ever experienced an air line or leakage issue.

Care during installation is what's crucial (proper routing of the air lines / care taken while installing the seal housing inside the diff so as not to twist or nick the O-rings/X-rings). Finding an installer who is familiar with installing ARBs will greatly lower your chances of having problems with it if you don't have the tools/knowledge to install it yourself.

I'll ×3 on figuring out what size tires you want to run. As said, a regear shouldn't be necessary for 265/75R16s, but if you think you'll go up a size or 2 in the not-too-distant future, then it could be worthwhile to do.

 

I’m running ARB front and rear air lockers w/onboard ARB compressor. So far they’ve been bulletproof. I regeared, and sitting on MAXXIS 35/12.50/17’s, kings/total chaos +2 leaf under/airbags. Absolutely no issues.

 

If you want instant lock go arb. If you don't want air get harrop. That being said, never had issues with my arb. Ive never pushed my front locker button and not have it engage. Going on 7 years now...plus, like you stated, you would now have on board air.

 

Not a second gen owner but a selectable locker is a selectable locker no matter what year.

I fucked with 3 different selectable over a 20+ year span. I’m not a one user with one brand selectable and will talk shit about the other 2 that I haven’t used. I tried all 3 and here’s my honest opinion:

1: TJM Prolocker, solid locker and is one of the best air locker IMO. Piston style engagement. So far, instant lock when engaged and set and forget setup.
2: Harrop locker, solid locker but I dislike the momentarily disengagement when moving from a forward position to reverse or vice versa. The tire has to spin/loose traction before reengage. If you’re on a gnarly granite rock climb and need to readjust your approach angle, you will feel as if the locker is not working until there is enough tire spin. Other than that, it is a set and forget setup.
3: ARB air locker, good locker but I hate the engagement designed. Use 2 o-ring to seal the pressure, it will leak and will need a rebuilt. Everyone I know has the same issue and having the air compressor turned on numerous time when being use became the norm. Extremely annoying to be on the trail and have the compressor randomly engaged to create pressure to keep the locker locked. I hate it, others learned to live with it. A rebuilt can get expensive if you can’t perform the work yourself.

I bought 2 ARB assembled unit (8” third & 7.5hp clamshell for 2 different Toyota) from 2 reputable offroad shop. The first few years, there was no issue but after that, I noticed the compressor turning on randomly when the locker is engaged. Read into possible issue, many stated synthetic gear oil is the cause of o-ring deformation. Switched to non-synthetic oil after rebuilt, same result. My experience, they will eventually leak over time, causing the compressor to turn on to built pressure. But never once had I experience a non-working situation.

Before I built 2 LC9.5 third, I did some research and many ARB users switched to TJM because of the engagement designed. Figure I try TJM and will switch to Harrop later if I have issue. So far, TJM has been trouble free through its abuse on rocks and handle my older 40” and now 42” tires at 3psi locked.

Benefit of having air locker is having access to OBA. This helps if you don’t carry a co2 or nitrogen tank to air up. But you do take more chances at other failed areas as there is more moving parts such as wiring harness or connection for the compress, fuse etc.

My 2 cents on the 3 different selectable I experienced with.

 

I use ARB for a rear locker, have no issue with it engaging but it does seem to leak a little after 5 years every 5-6 minutes I can hear the pump run. I went through east coast gears.

 

ECGS has Eaton elocker, ARB air locker, TrueTrac, etc.
its personal preference.

I did open front diff, rear TrueTrac. Why:
1. No desire to break front CV axles
2. TrueTrac was better than stock
3. Cheaper
4. Truck does trails but not insane trails
5. Crawling up an obstacle weight goes towards the rear. Front IFS means limited articulation.
6. Truetrac means automatic, not work to engage
7. Less parts
8. Overall setup. Truck isn’t on 37’s SAS etc.
9. Primary reason for entering the diffs was to change gear ratio

 

My oldest ARBs are over 20 years old now... The compressor might cycle once in 5-10 minutes to maintain pressure with one or both engaged (and has done that since day 1). I don't consider that to be a problem.

I would think ARB used O-ring seals that could handle any type of gear oil, but I can't say for sure. I've used numerous dinosaur oils (Valvoline, Castrol, Supertech, Sta-Lube, Coastal, others I'm probably forgetting), Valvoline synth-blend, and Royal Purple full-synthetic w/o issue.

And yes, the OBA is very handy.