Tractors, Mowers, Chippers, Trailers, Chainsaws, Generators, Driveway Erosion Control, ETC.

Ok, so it looks like it's on me. Before ordering I took the original bar off to make measuring easier. I took some of the measurements from the original bar, because it was easier (and I thought more accurate) than measuring the bucket. The pictures tell the rest of the story . . .

 

Success with fixing the broken transaxle mount bolt that was "impossible" to reach.

When I eyeballed out where the access hole needed to be, it was very close to being in the same spot as the bracket mount bolt, so I re-installed the bolt and made a new hole for the mount bolt using a larger 3/8 bolt that I had on hand. 'she ain't going nowhere'...



I grabbed one of these carbide tipped hole saws meant for a mill, sketchy AF to use in a hand drill.



My eyeball needs to be re-calibrated, I was about 1" too low.



Good 'nuf for my $50 beater.

 

Weeds wacked ✓
2 yards mowed✓
Oil change motorcycle ✓
Drive shaft oil changed✓
Final drive oil changed ✓
Cold Yuengling ✓
Surprisingly the last 3 oils looked extremely good, but it's been sitting for years so did it just because. She fired right up. Now to get those brake calipers rebuilt and hopefully it will be riding in the wind.

 

Since my arm surgery 3 weeks ago, I still can’t do stuff like climb on the floor and change my oil. So I take my taco down to the local shop for an oil change and they charge me 132 bucks!!! Thaheck???

 

I get it !! Been there done that, I even got the T-.shirts

 

Ok so what your saying on the blade is they now over complicate it.

It used to be you measure inside your bucket, they send it... Then you put 1 bolt in either side.

On/off in a few seconds.

Still looks to be same construction of teeth/thickness.

Ignore the dirty part.

 

Yes they still sell the kind like you have, a Piranha Bar. What I got was the Piranha Bar Pro. I figured that I would rather have it and use all of the existing holes that were already in the bucket. I really don't know why they charge more for the Pro than the non-Pro, it would seem with all the welding they have to do on the non-Pro that it would cost more? Maybe it cost more to drill and countersink the holes?

 

Needed a bigger saw.

 

Or smaller trees

 

Gotcha!

This is just a personal preference for me then. I take mine on/off a lot.
Cant really do back dragging with it on & get a smooth finish. If ya want to leave rows? Sure it works fine. Depending on where it is for me.

Now CUTTING with it on? Oh hell yes. I do it all the time. Just got off the tractor a few mins ago. It will flat out gouge some stuff up if you got a strong tractor. That's why its dirty on mine now. Been getting loads out of my red clay pile for my backstop.

Oh & you for sure want to take it off if you do snow work. It will make a mess out of a driveway.

But again: for clearing trails & brush? This thing is just unstoppable until you hit a stump.

Btw: it looks small on my bucket because that is a high boy XL 60" bucket. So its tall & deep vs wide.

 

Just used mine today! Dug up a plum trunk then back filled and smoothed. You can back drag and leave it smooth just use the bottom or back of bucket just hold the teeth up off the surface

 

Yeah that would work. (Back edging it)

I'm a front edge kinda guy with the wheels just off the ground.

As long as we all git it done!

Got the culvert in, got some dirt moved for a backstop. Cut a couple trees up from the storm.

Then went back & made a concrete inlet on the culvert.
Grilled some burgers & now on the chair with the bullydog!

Life is good.

 

Sounds like a perfectly good Easter

 

I'm hoping i dont have to do much swapping back and forth with the other bar... too heavy for me to be messing with very often. If i do need to swap back temporarily maybe i could try just using 4 or 6 bolts (depending on the task) instead of using all 10. And no snow to require clearing here in the subtropics. We did get about 8" here in January that took about 4 days to go away, but that was waaaaay out of the norm, which is 0" annually. We have 5 straight days of rain predicted starting tomorrow, so it may be a while till I get to try the thing out....

 

You keep your saws VERY CLEAN!

 

Had a tree service take them down because they were over the house and needed bucket truck and climber to section them down. New saw is to turn them into firewood length rounds. Smaller trees are up the hill. Small saw took down some apple, fir, pear, and small white oaks.

 

Not for long..... Ridgid saw is clean because I keep it inside my truck during the winter, so it gets the bar oil drained and cleaned up after every use.

 

On the topic of SAWS

I felled a 100 foot tall + maple last week end. The big trees are starting to crowd each other out, and this one had some bad rot about 12 feet up.

While limbing the tops , the Husky 346xp started running lean. I made several trips back to the shop looking for air leaks at the carb etc. Tried to adjust it out, the lean burn would go for a bit, but then come right back. I thought for sure it was crank seals.

I had to clean up the tree, so went out an bought a new 550xp.
The following day I pulled the 346 to the cases.
The cylinder retaining cap screws were coming loose! Two of the four were no more than finger tight! The base gasket told the entire tale. For a saw that I bought new in 2011, I thought it odd that the jug would vibrate loose now, nearly 15 years later. My bet is that all I would have needed to do was snug down those cap screws and all would have been fine. If I had only checked!
As I had it opened up, the saw got a new piston ring, base gasket and exhaust manifold gasket. Plus a small bit of transfer port matching and smoothing the exhaust port. A hold over from racing two stroke motorbikes, I couldn't not.....;-)

 

I started carrying the Makita battery saw in the truck this winter. Last spring we had a snow storm that brought trees and limbs down so bad it took me nearly three hours to make a 45 minute drive home from a days work.