Stiff Gear Shifter

Since you're out of warranty, buy the switch and DIY? http://www.ttguide.net/removal-1040.html

 

Just a question for those having this problem. I have a 2016 TRD Off Road, only 45,000 miles on it, no issues like this at this time.

Question - do you always use Drive only when driving, or do you often use manual mode and switch gears up and down, both in city driving, and offroad?

I see some said this happens when the truck sits for some time without being driven, but wondering if how the shifter is used might have some bearing on the problem?

 

ran across this .... https://www.carparts.com/blog/p0705-code-transmission-range-sensor-circuit-malfunction-prndl-input/

 

I'd love to see the quote on this ... $600 to change a switch - or do they they think the switch is Ok and it's in the tranny ??? WOW

 

I am disgusted and fed up with Toyota. After a year of dealing with this stiff shifter issue they now are saying it's the cable. Now the truck is out of warranty and they want $600 to fix it. This plus the other issues I have had with it, I'm getting rid of it and won't buy another Toyota again.

 

That's a really good find. Going to print this article in case it's needed later.

 

Just an update on my Tacoma. The dealership was finally able to repeat the problem. They felt sure it was the cable so they replaced it. After picking up my truck, I let it sit for about a week since this seems to be when the problem occurs. Sure enough the problem happened again and this time the check engine light and the Traction Control light came on. This morning I dropped it back off to the dealership and now I'm waiting to see what they find. I still think Toyota should cover it because it has been an on going issue since it was under warranty.

 

From what I could see in my on line searches, the park/ neutral switch is a common failure point across many brands of vehicles. Intermitent shifter stiffness, check engine light & the P not lighting up are typical symptoms of a failing P/N switch.
There's likely only 1 or 2 manufactures of those switches that supply all the auto industry.

 

i solved stiff shifter by spraying shifter linkage on side of tranny, its under truck, did this twice, it dries up but p0705 still on , its the trasm range sensor, dont know location any one know???

 

Well , the 3rd gen truck is 5 years old now and I can imagine you are going to start seeing more of these complaints .
The 2nd gen truck was famous for the Neutral safety switch failing .
When the Neutral safety switch begins to fail , you get P0705 , you lose some lights on the dash and the shifter gets very difficult to move .
You need to clear the code after the repair is done .The switch is very easy to replace .
The switch is a printed circuit board mounted to the side of the transmission and exposed to weather / salt / swimming . They are not sealed well ....you get corrosion .
One of you third gen owners need to do a write up showing how to replace the neutral safety switch and add as many pictures as you can . I would do the write up , but I dont own a 3rd gen .
Once the write up is started , I will bring in all the information I have collected and add it to your write up .

 

Bump, I'm experiencing a stiff shifter and my car is a 17 trd sport auto. Anyone have part numbers for the replacement part or a video/pictures of where the parts are located?

 

Part # is 84540-60050 for the part that replaced the original. I’d imagine the new # includes improvements. The design and fitment of this thing is really stupid. Mine is so corroded from having a bare steel shaft sticking through it with no seal on the outside that I can’t even remove it without destroying the sensor, so I just hit the shaft a few times with a big 1/2” ratchet and wiggled the sensor around till it felt free. Then I soaked it in 3in1 Oil and put it back together.

This should have been a TPS style with a sealed end and an open end that fit over the keyed shaft and would have been 100% sealed with just 1 o-ring. WTF?!

I’m gonna order a new sensor, rip the old one off, and do a write up with pics showing how to at least install the new one in a way this won’t happen again, cuz I was not able to find anything thorough.

Just 1 more time though. WTF Toyota?!

 

I recently encountered this issue too.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/3rd-gena-tacoma-sticky-shifter.810399/

 

it is covered under warranty if you brought it in for the issue during your warranty and they failed to fix it. don't let them tell you otherwise.

 

https://youtu.be/BDrIgBwFvF8

This started happening intermittently after driving it in heavy rains last year but then went away on its own and would only come back after car washes, rainy weather or when left parked for a day or two.
Now its become more consistent and I've observed is that it only occurs when then trans and everything is cold (like first 30-40 mins of driving). Once its up to temp, it shifts smooth like butter.

Could this be a faulty park-neutral switch? A dirty shifter column/lever assembly? or is my AT fluid over/under filled?

 

Any update on this, currently have mine jacked up for the same issue, except there is no switch located on the outside of the trans where the linkage gets hooked up.

 

Had this happen a few times a few years ago with my father’s Tacoma and mine once. I just blindly sprayed a few good blasts of fluid film (or anny oil spray NOT WD40 type products or lithium grease) above the transmission to hit the neutral safety switch. No problems since. Both took two hands to barely shift out of park. Saved a few others with this same trick too. Try it out. Nothing to lose except ten bucks. I get my truck sprayed every year and they don’t spray above the transmission well. The switch is prone to corrosion and I think it’s somehow more a contact issue than mechanical seizing. Hasn’t failed me yet, and should be lubed anyways.

 

There is no external switch on my 16. The cable comes straight through the floor and then connects to the driver side of the trans, where it connects to the linkage shaft that exits the trans.

 

Thanks! Is there a reason why you recommend fluid film vs White Lithium Grease?

I found the video below where the guy uses WD40 and then White Lithium Grease in a 2nd Gen

https://youtu.be/_J78a7rWiIk?si=WUZiEzbTFnsXwqb0

 

Fluid Film - I spray that $#!¥ on everything. Because it works.

FF is thicker than WD40, but still has good ‘creep’. It gets into the nooks and crannies and prevents rust. The spray greases (IMHO) seem to ‘stay where they’re sprayed’ and don’t spread out as much.