New Wire for Door Speakers

So if I’m wiring the back doors, front doors, and subs directly from the amplifier, how would I carry the amplified single for the dash speakers from the amp up to the factory tweeter singles to splice in? Using splice taps seems like a bad move

 

They should connect to your new tweeters with their included crossover.

And no, you don't want to be running the factory tweeters and crossover on anything beyond the factory radio.

 

Right. So if I mount new tweeters in the dash then somehow I have to get speaker wires from them to the crossovers. I don’t see a way to do that without running new wire directly from the crossovers to the new tweeters

 

What amp do you have, and where is it going?

And what tweeters/crossovers do you have

 

Focal FlaxEvo PS 165 FXE Components

And Focal FlaxEvo PC 165 coax in the rear doors

 

You didn't specify your amp-- I was looking for the size of it.

Depending on the size of the amp and the install location, the crossovers can sometimes be installed with the amp behind the seats or under the seats, with separate wire runs up to the speakers.

The door looms to the door speakers are directly under the front tweeters, so the same path is usually used, with popping off the dash side trim to run the wire up to the tweeters.

The disadvantage to that method is running 2 pairs of wire from the amp/crossover location can add some additional bulk to be hidden in tight spots, as well as slightly increased cost from the additional wire. But done right, can make for a much more presentable installation.

Alternatively, there's space within the dash on either side above the kick panels(lay on the driver's side floor and look up, passenger side, remove the side panel, there's space between the panel and the glove box enclosure that should be accessible from underneath), and under the tweeters, so the amp output can also be ran to that location, and shorter wire can be ran off the crossover to the door speakers and tweeters locations.

And of course the middle option, is always going to be underneath the seat. Even if the amp is under one seat, the crossovers could be placed under the other seat.

 

Either the Audison SR600.5 or the JL HD900/5. Plan on mounting that behind the drivers side rear seat. The crossovers I was thinking of mounting on either side of the amp, or in the cubby underneath the rear seat.

 

the factory wiring can handle 100 watts rms ??

 

Yes, the factory wire could handle that as well

 

Man everywhere ive read they say it cant. Im mad because i just installed everything yesterday and read that the factory wires arent sufficient so i havent plugged anything in yet

 

Err on the side of caution and replace the wiring. Dean and Fernando often use the OEM wiring on I stalls with 5 Star Car Stereo. They have done install on multiple tacomas as well. I always ran new wire as it was normal for me but you could easily throw in some 14 or 16guage wiring. You have a 22 so I’m sure you are good but check them out on IG and you can ask the question on their live and they will reply

 

For now i was thinking to plug everything in and tune the amp with a multimeter then just run the set up at 50% volume max until i get around to buying and installing new wire. What im not sure of though is if lower volume = less watts being pumped out.

 

If you have clean power you will be fine. Distortion is what will kill your speakers which is running out of power. What speakers and amp are you running

 

2 Kicker Cs series 6x9 150 watt RMS in the front
2 Kicker Cs series 6 3/4” 100 watt RMS in the back
Pioneer GM DX874 100RMS x 4 amp

 

I think you will be fine. Not sure how clean the power is from the pioneer so it may not be an actual 100watts coming from it. Just listen did distortion.

 

Yes. The power being sent through the speaker wires is dictated by the music: how loud it is and even the type of music (more bass = more power).

Thinner wire has more resistance than thicker wire. Resistance in the wire converts electrical energy into heat. Too much power (energy per second) sent through a wire can heat up the wire so much that it catches on fire. However, that's far less likely in speaker wire because the power sent through the wire isnt continuous--it fluctuates with the music. If your amp is capable of producing 100W of power, it's only doing so at max volume, and unless you're playing something like a 50Hz sine wave it's not continuously producing that power. Playing music at max volume would result in something like 1/5th the max power delivery on average (rough rule of thumb). The dips in power delivery allow heat to dissipate rather than continue to build up.

The main benefit to upgrading to a thicker speaker wire is less power is lost to heat before reaching your speakers. Outside of extreme scenarios, it's not a hazard to re-use factory speaker wiring with an aftermarket amp.

 

I have been chasing a gremlin for a year now.

Started getting popping and crackling from front left channel, mainly the DS18 dash tweeter. replaced it, replaced harness. Still there. Checked all amp connections, solid. Redid all grounds, solid. Someone said it was probably my LC5i pro, warranty replacement. Still happening. It's intermittent and even happens when stereo is off.

Could it be wiring? Any ideas.

 

It could be a bad RCA. Try replacing an RCA to see if that clears it up