Jumper cables

I previously had a CarQuest brand jump box which lasted 10 years before it got weak. My Clore is 3 years old and still working well.

I believe lead acid batteries are hit or miss. My factory Toyota TrueStart battery developed a bad cell at 33 months. My replacement TrueStart is 6.5 years old and still going strong.

Some might say 6.5 years is running on borrowed time. That’s why I keep my Clore in my truck at all times.

 

Yeah I was surprised considering the reviews. It would not charge at all.

 

I still have the jumper cables I bought in the late 1980’s. I’ve used them 3 times in the last 5ish years to jump other people’s automobiles. I’ve been feeling I should buy a jump box, but these reports in this thread about them not working in the cold is making me second guess that.

Personally I have not had a dead battery or bought a battery in 15+ years. My Current battery is a 2020 OEM and it started the truck after sitting outside overnight at less than 0F 4 times last winter. Two years ago a sales rep at my long time shop told me that my battery failed their load test and offered to sell me a new one. I politely said I still trust my battery.

 

There is a different type than NOCO ... not the same core LithiumIon. Maybe someone will chime in with the details on that "other type".

 

My NOCO, lives in the truck year round hot/cold, I take it out once or twice a year to charge it. I’ve used it to jump cars twice in cold temps (around 20-25 degrees) no problem. This is after it’s been sitting in my also cold car for hours. Never had the opportunity to try it in really cold sub zero temps though. Has worked in warm temps as well. I bought the GB70 through a group buy on here years ago and it hasn’t failed me, maybe buy a slightly more powerful jump pack than you may need if you plan on being in cold weather.

 

I worked at AutoZone for about a year many years ago, and I can confirm those "battery testers" we used were never accurate. i always felt like it was to get people to buy new ones..

 

Yup. The only accurate method is a load test.

 

They did do a load test in my case. I still think they underestimate the remaining life in the battery with the purpose of selling more of them.

The sales rep went as far as trying to scare me about getting stranded and having to call a tow truck. Never in my life have I called a tow truck because of a dead battery. I’ve either push started it or received a jump. My taco is in pretty damn heavy. I’m sure if I could push start it by myself.

I trust the shop otherwise. I think the sales rep was a little too motivated and/or read me wrong.

 

I used a noco to jump my truck, 1st time using it on my truck but have used for other vehicles. It jumped it no problem but then the dash was lit up like a Xmas tree. It ended up frying the steering angle sensor (on the clock spring) that was an expensive jump. Never used it again on my truck and when back to heavy duty cables

 

Yep - same here, I still have my 1980s jumper cables. But after reading about the jump packs here, I finally got the

$175 NOCO GBX55 1750A 12V UltraSafe Portable Lithium Jump Starter, Car Battery Booster Pack, USB-C Powerbank Charger, and Jumper Cables for up to 7.5-Liter Gas and 5.0-Liter Diesel Engines

NOCO GBX55. It started my Outback 3.6R with a totally -dead- battery.

Another thing to consider: jumper cables won’t help you if there’s no one around to give you a boost.

I like having both. The NOCO is easy to use. The cables I would use if giving a jump to a larger vehicle, like an F250 or a diesel.

 

Another vote for the Clore jump 'n carry. I have the 770, have used it quite frequently, and have never been let down. It has successfully jumped vehicles that a NOCO couldn't get jumped and larger vehicles like a GMC 2500 box truck. Bonus that it has USB ports and I can use it when on an extended camping trip to recharge my electronics after my power bank loses charge.

 

How timely that this discussion came along.

Recently my sister sought my counsel on the topic of jumper cables for her 2nd child who just went off to college and is in her first car. Sis wanted to know what the difference in gauge was, does gauge matter, and what length is good to get. I warned her off of jumper cables and recommended the Noco GB-40 (I've had nothing but super positive experience with it) for the following reasons:

1. I have jump started a car before and had it back feed current that fried my ECU.
   The car in question was $600 from a police auction.
   My ECU replacement ran 2x that amount at $1200.
2. To jump start your car, you require a willing participant.
   Sometimes a friend is nearby, and sometimes a predator is near by.
   Now is not the time for a stranded small framed single female with ZERO defensive experience to flip a coin on who shows up.
3. Jumper cables are HUGE and take up a lot of space in today's smaller cars
4. Copper is desirable and I've heard of people getting J-Cables stolen
5. Jumper cables can't be used to charge your Cell Phone if needed

The one caveat / con I mentioned to her was that the Noco DOES REQUIRE CHARGING. It's easy for a college girl to forget about that and end up with two dead batteries. But this kid is pretty good about being regimented and disciplined so I think she'll do OK there.

My sister was worried about the price difference between a set of cables and a Noco - I told her "The difference is $35. If your daughter gets assaulted and becomes a victim because she had a dead battery, your first medical co-pay will erase that $35 in savings and you will gladly have paid 10x the cost of a Noco to keep your baby safe. If that $35 is a deal breaker, I'll chip in." She said she was good for the $35 extra over the cost of jumpers and got her the Noco. I realized that after all of that I had neglected to get my own daughter a Noco - so she picked hers up from the house this weekend.

And honestly I don't care if you have the Noco brand or the Clore. Noco is just the one I'm qualified to talk about. Electrons are electrons. As long as you have a good, reputable, dependable jump pack, you are good. I wished these came standard on cars internally with a little isolater circuitry so that the battery stays charged all of the time and then you flip a switch and start the car when the main battery is dead. If a Noco costs $100 and weighs in at 3lbs, that could be done at scale for $50 easily. Think of all of the other "safety features" that they put on cars these days. This one should be there too.

 

Back in the late 80s, early 90s a service manager told me to stop using jumper cables due to the ability to fry your ecu. He said it's like playing Russian roulette with jumper cables. Personally I know one person who jumped a stranger and fried their own ecu during the process, shortly after that I sold my cables.

 

I carry this one. Comes with a cigarette charger. I keep it plugged into the jump pack and charge it every once in a while just for S+G. Also carry regular cables

https://www.lowes.com/pd/CRAFTSMAN-1500-Amp-12-Volt-Portable-Car-Battery-Jump-Starter/5013933995

 

Another

$100 NOCO GB40 1000A UltraSafe Car Battery Jump Starter, 12V Jump Starter Battery Pack, Battery Booster, Jump Box, Portable Charger and Jumper Cables for 6.0L Gasoline and 3.0L Diesel Engines

NOCO GB40 recommendation here. Ive had to use it so many times on other peoples vehicles, thankfully never my own.

I can attest itll start a 4Runner (same battery/motor as a taco) no issue based on multiple jumps because a buddy of mine is a chronically forgetful silly goose.

 

OP seems to have asked a question, then abandoned ship.

 

good here also..noco

 

Another NOCO vote,

$175 GBX55 1750A 12V UltraSafe Portable Lithium Jump Starter, Car Battery Booster Pack, USB-C Powerbank Charger, and Jumper Cables for up to 7.5-Liter Gas and 5.0-Liter Diesel Engines

GBX55, my only gripe is I’ve put it away and inadvertently turned on the flashlight because it’s in a bag and not a case.

I still do have jumper cables in my work truck and the taco but never liked using them especially on newer vehicles with electronics. I’ve had electrical issues happen from cables on my 77 blazer and not from mixing up pos neg.

In the work truck the battery got low when I had the radio on and that’s when I looked into the packs….cables don’t help when solo.
Also the boost packs have all kinds of of protection from misuse and oddly I’ve used it about a dozen times on other’s vehicles, including a bobcat.

A no brainer IMO.

 

Now you know two...