Oil additive recommended by dealer is it bs?

Changing their clogged fuel filters

 

I had the same experience also. I must have a good dealer. Our driveway has a big White Birch tree next to it. For a couple months in the spring, that tree spits pollen like crazy. At my 15K / 30K services the air/cabin filter were... Not terribly... But enough that the dealer felt they needed changing. They changed them. On the house.

 

They have oild additive on the report.
I do put seafoam cleaner in my cars that i dont drive in the winter. When i first got my 85 celica gts it ran fine but i added a bottle to a full tank and i was surprised at the change. I do recommend using it in small engines that sit for long periods like snow blowers and chain saws.

 

Doing your 1st oil change at 5K would be much more beneficial to the long term health of your engine than paying them $20 to pour snake oil in there. Get those initial break-in metal particles outta there. I do 5K oil changes standard (because there’s plenty of evidence out there that doing 10K changes is pushing it if you want your engine to make it to 300K+). But I think the first oil change at ~5K is the most important.

 

Ya that is what i see toyota care being. If it needs it they do it. They wanted $64 for a cabin filter. It costs about $15 and 5 minutes to change. I told them i would take care of that.

 

When I went in for my very first servicing, I spent 10-15 minutes talking 'tech' to the service manager. I was my way of letting him know 'You're not talking to a teenage kid who has never had auto shop, or someone who hasn't done maint/repairs on my own car/truck for 50 years..'

 

Truck has D4-S…Toyota language for both port and direct injection.

Other than taking advantage of port injection when it can, the port injectors other job is keeping the back sides of the valves and the valve seats clean. Gas is a solvent and does well in that role with carbon build up.

In simpler words, the 2GR has minimal carbon issues when maintained the way it’s supposed to be.

 

If I were to do it again I would start with a 1000 mile initial engine oil change. For the stuff in there my feelings are 5000 miles is too long. Add both differentials to that as well, perhaps at an initial 5,000 miles. My engine and front differential lab results were not good; normal but not good. Transfer case was good and I have also checked the WS ATF.

 

Yes i agree they should have done it ia the 6month visit. They said 8k but did it when i broughtit in for year check.

 

I prefer mib. Stuff works great in small power equipment that sits for months.

 

I would strongly recommend against an early first oil change. Why? Most manufacturers these days use an assembly lube which is meant to be mixed with the oil which in turn aids break in. Not sure about Toyota, but most manufacturers these days strongly recommend against an early first oil change.

 

Interesting, I went into the seller dealer somewhere between 500 & 1000 miles before I left their area and they were willing to do it, but didn’t have the time and I went to the 5,000 mile mark before the first oil change. The lab work was not the best. Don’t have access to my computer at the moment to see what that was.

 

Even though it kinda runs with should I use this brand of oil or this, change oil at 3000k, etc...

1. You'll probably never know if it was used or not that any difference took place?
2. Has it been scientifically proven to do anything from an independent lab?
3. Pre dyno #'s and post dyno #'s and wear after n hours?
3. We used BG products assembling auto and race engines. I think it was called BG Assembly Lube. The guy who was a dealer would know exactly. That stuff stuck like glue and we used it to prelube camshaft, rod & main bearings. Was it any better than y product? Who knows. We never had an issue with any engines after startup....

It is amazing what works and doesn't that wouldn't seem logical. If you race anything and are doing cheat, grey area stuff for advantages, you know what I mean. Example > Does inserting a screen between intake manifold and carb actually work? How big or small do the holes have to be?

NET: I wouldn't opt for it.

 

nice
this is like the Guy Version of "I have a boyfriend"
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/fALqKy3Wjxs

 

Have I missed what MIB is?

 

The fleet I am a mechanic for uses about 8 oz of BG MOA in every oil change and we've had multiple vehicles come in knocking with no oil left in the engine but no engine damage. Fix the leak, install new oil and filter, send it back out into the world.
I should specify that we don't use MOA for carbon buildup but to protect the engine against the eventuality of drivers ignoring the low oil light and killing the engine.

 

Pushing some secret sauce on a traditional first oil change is the douchie behavior I would expect to see from some little shithole of a shop like Jippy Lube that is known for forgetting to refill the engine oil or not tightening oil filters. Coming from a factory representative dealership is just incredibly foul. I don't think I could continue to do business with them. It's hard enough trusting them to get things right nowadays but this puts it on a whole new level.

It's already been said plenty of times in these past responses but our trucks are not known to have carbon build up issues in the valve train nor is it elsewhere unless oil change intervals are done with silly frequencies like the recommended 10k rather than an appropriate 5k. That's where the carbon build up is affecting piston rings and starting the premature excess oil consumption issues that some Toyotas will experience that lead to engine replacements.

Maybe I'm giving dealers more credit than I should in this respect. I'd steer clear of that shop if at all possible.

 

Mine's a 2021 Off-Road and I went the TriboTEX route after a buddy swore by it. No regrets—engine runs quieter, especially on highway trips with the camper. Those $20 BG add-ons the dealer tries to upsell? Nah. At under 6k miles, your engine's not even broken in enough to warrant any additive