4.0 manual transmission, stalled then wouldn't start

My torque app said CPS, I didn't look at the numbers. Truck runs just fine, until it doesn't. I'm currently on a job site and the truck stalled while running on a gravel driveway. Been down over 30 min.
I had the truck running (idling) for 10 min or more while I was talking to the client. Truck is in low range- I'm hauling debris around the property with a dump trailer. Truck was running fine in 1st gear (low range). It stalled when I shifted into 2nd. Same thing happened yesterday, in high range, leaving the job site.
I suspect low rpm operation is starving the engine due to a clogged sock filter on the fuel pump.

 

If it's flagging a code for crank position sensor, even intermittently, you really need to start there.

 

The other thing that comes to mind though, even if it sounds a bit extreme.. is possibly there is a crankshaft thrust issue? Like pushing on the clutch is actually pushing the crankshaft forward and affecting the clearance gap between the sensor pickup and tone ring?

This would be an extremely rare example though. There likely isn't enough room for movement at the crank bearings to allow that to happen.. and you'd expect some type of internal engine noise too. just a thought..
I'm still trying to connect the stall issue to the clutch because it really sounded like the two symptoms were happening at roughly the same time

I'd start with a new crank sensor and see how it goes. A tone ring problem would have to get verified with a scope. Not sure if you have one ..

 

Truck is running again.

CPS code came up again. I'll order a new sensor and install it.

 

Code is P0335

 

I bought a sensor at NAPA. Left work early and figured I'd do spark plugs at the same time.

 

Swapped out the bank 1 sensor. Let's hope thats it!
Got the plugs done while I was under the hood too.

 

Keep us posted!

 

Pretty sure p0335 is for Crankshaft Pos Sensor.. not Camshaft Pos Sensor

 

Aaaactually.....sooo, I had a thrust bearing get flung out some how. Drove for a while. Even did a track day on it. Both sides. In the oil pan. That's a lot of front to back play. There was enough room everywhere for the crank counter weight to use the main cap as the thrust surface.

 

JB weld fixed it. Seriously

 

Same. New clutch installed ~2 months ago according to OP

 

It happened again today. I was a long way from home. Went for a nice walk, hour or so, truck started right up. Was driving out, a bit slow going, and a couple miles down the road it died shifting from first to second. That happen twice today and once 2 days ago. Dying on the road is new. That bothers me.

Of the many times this has happened, the one unchanging variable is that it stalls when the clutch pedal is pushed in - with the exception that it has refused to restart after just plain stalling it a couple times.

Is it possible that the fuel "filter" (sock) is gummed up and causing this? I just put a new fuel pump relay in this evening when I finally got home, and I have a new Denso fuel pump ordered.

I was really hoping that the crankshaft position sensor would resolve the issue.

At least I was stranded somewhere pretty

 

well, shit. Back to NAPA

 

Swapping in the crank position sensor could very well help.

Swapping in a new pump alone won't fix a high mileage saturated fuel filter. Unless you purchased a fuel pump assembly (which comes with a new filter) or toss the current filter and add in an external filter.

 

I am planning to toss the filter an install an in-line filter that I can replace. On all of my other vehicles I have regularly replaced the fuel filter. This one has gone 195K on the original filter. Do you know the specs on the fuel line off hand? It's time to buy a filter.

Today's priority is the crankshaft position sensor.

 

5/16", but you'll need a 3/8" hose to go over the fuel assembly outlet, unless you get adapter fittings. Or the URD kit.

 

Nothing is ever simple on these trucks.

Got the crank position sensor installed. Wasn't as bad as I expected. Replaced the serpentine belt while I had the skids off.

Only time will tell.

 

I’m not saying the above issue is causing your problem but it’s possible and very easily remedied to rule it out.

A bad electrical connection can cause multiple mysterious problems. It can drive you nuts chasing a bunch of other possibilities. For example when I was having an intermittent no crank problem. Turned out my starter solenoid contacts were worn, primary problem. Also my clutch switch was going out, secondary problem. So it wasn’t because I did or didn’t scratch my nose when I turned it off.

I believe you mentioned an error code and pressing the clutch pedal causes a problem.

Clutch switches have been known to end up having high resistance causing a no crank issue. I never cared for manufacturers intervention thinking I’m too stupid to know it should be in neutral when I turn the key to start. I bypassed mine so no more stomp to start.

When you’re paid to troubleshoot a problem, people don’t want to pay 5 labor hours to replace something that didn’t solve the problem. So first I think of all possible causes, think of percentage each possible cause is the actual cause, think of how quickly each possible cause can be fixed, then come up with a plan of attack.

 

Heres a seemingly random thought, but not random at all. I was looking at the timeline of when this first happened. Clutch replaced Feb 12. Problem first occurred March 16. Secondary air injection warranty work done by Toyota on March 18. I don't get to blame Toyota. That got me thinking. It's very likely that on the very day I first experienced this problem, I may have removed my SAIS bypass/ override (whatever you want to call it) from slyfox75. This kit was supposed to stop the SAIS pump from running(it did not). As I was saying, I removed this kit just before having the warranty/recall work done. The installation of said kit required connecting a wire to the starter relay. The way this was done was to just jam a small gauge wire into one of the relay connections.

My question is... Could slightly opening one of the connections on the starter relay in the fuse box cause any or all of my issues we're discussing? The timeline fits perfectly.

I bent the tabs on the rely slightly to improve the connection, in case this is the problem.