Betterbuckleup's 2000 taco build & BS

I’ll throw out an answer since I have solo uniball uppers. The stiffness could also be increased caster beyond going from potentially sloppy worn out ball joints to tight new uniballs.

 

I did not experience that, but I agree with @Dalandser. Increased castor creates stiffer steering

 

Was hearing some weird noises coming from my doubler lately, so I pulled out the greasy bitch to investigate.

Everything checked out other than the rear coupler and bearing. Looks like the rear coupler was somehow spinning inside the inner bearing race. The splines on the rear case were also showing signs of fretting. Probably due to excess deflection from the single row bearing and my dumbass using antiseize on the original install instead or something better for the splines. Doesn't look too bad so I'm planning just throwing it back in after some cleanup.



While I had it out, I wanted to try and see if I could fit a 5209 double row bearing into the rear adapter to better support the coupler from axial loads and deflection. Turned out to more or less be a drop in replacement. Just had to machine down the thrust washer to makeup for the thicker bearing. Don't know why TG doesn't spec these adapter with one to start, but I guess i'll find out once it's back up and running.







Also planning on cleaning up the holes in my floor to try and make it better sealed and more easily serviceable. I chopped out the part where the rear case would occasionally hit the cab, to raise it up.
Need to get some sheet metal next week then I'll start working on that (not really looking forward to it).

 

Finally put a wrap on the t-case rebuild. The cab sheet metal work took the longest. Time to put some miles on it and see how everything holds up.

Started by making the existing hole into a bigger hole.
Had to patch a few spots after getting a little overzealous with the body saw...


Before seam sealing and paint. Re-did the links to the triple sticks so they aren't as obtrusive and mount to the inside of the front levers.


With rear access plate installed.


Finished product for now. Need to install a new vinyl or carpet to totally cover it. Existing carpet is pretty beat.

 

This is rad man well done

 

Thanks appreciate it

 

Installed a solenoid into the WM system to do a progressive spray with the Haltech. Took a bit to get going as I didn't realize it needed to be ground switched from the output. Need to clean up a lot of the wiring as it's gotten a bit out of hand. I bought a 6 gang fuse block, breaker, and a relay to bring in a common source of switched 12v power to the cab.
With the help of @2RZNoShi1 the truck is making more power without the WM and drives a lot smoother overall. Hopefully can cut down on the WM consumption with it being progressive now after some more tuning. Also hopefully clear up certain spots where it still pings, but that's proving to be difficult.

 

Re did some wiring to make things less sketchy. Way too many things were tapped off of the radio switched 12v.
I brough in a fused dedicated 10ga feed to a 6 gang fuse block that's powered by a relay for a switched 12v power source.

 

Whipped up a small support bracket for the intake.
It was previously resting on the cruise control module and started to rattle.

 

Been wanting to do this one for a while.

Went to a pick-n-pull and grabbed an efan out of a 2006 Benz E350. Looked around for maybe 5 minutes until I found what looked to be a good match. Measurements seemed to be a good fit for my radiator and had the bosche controller built in. Cut the harness and literally ripped it right out without having to mess with any bolts.




Tested it out with the Haltech to make sure it was going to work. The duty cycle settings are backwards from normal, but in reading around online that seems to be the norm for these. Only needed one of the wires for the PMW signal. Pretty simple setup. Nice that the controller has soft start and all that built into it.

Pulled the radiator and fan. Had to reinstall the nuts onto the fan pulley with some washers to keep it in place.



Laying the fan onto the rad, I couldn't believe how good of a fit it was. All I did was trim down about maybe 1/4in of the top part of the shroud so it sat flat top and bottom on the radiator. Minorly jank, but it's held on there with zip ties. Time will tell how the mounting holds up, but I think it'll be fine.


Few things left to do:
-Need to measure what kind of amperage it draws at full load an install a fuse on the power supply.
-Clean up a the wiring that passes over the top of the radiator since the previous shroud tie down points are gone.

Clearance between the fan and motor is about the same as before, if not a little more.
Perfect timing for summer to get the settings dialed in for hotter temps and trail wheeling.




Also discovered that my motor is burning oil now, as it was low almost a full quart...

 

Installed a new pinion seal in the front diff because it was leaking.

Went to tighten up one of the front core support mounts and found that the frame rail tie-in plates that I welded in back in like 2019 were all deformed and pulling out so ended up pulling out the welder to fix that.

Used like 3/16 or something and hacked off the nuts from the original tie-ins.
Didn't fully weld the bottom edge of the plates to account for drainage.