Sandman614's #expoenough Build

Looks like about 450lbs extra in the bed with the Overland gear setup.

CVT Mt Theilsen Medium hardshell circa 2023
Weight with rack: 201.5lbs




+10lb propane, +40lbs water, +30lbs gas, +65lbs 2nd battery, +50lbs fridge, +45lbs awning

 

Yours is much worse than mine

 

5/15/24 Installed my shocks that have been at CT Raceworx since Jan 26.. No leaks though

 

331721 miles maintenance
Replaced the PCV valve and cracked hose.

 

Shocks are stupid.. Got my rear BP-51 back from the shop in Charlotte and they leaked a couple weeks after reinstalling. I assume it's the hose that's leaking, and why they didn't test/replace the hose idk... So while I figure something else out with those I am looking at buying King 2.5s...

I don't understand the listings and the more I look the more confused I am getting on which ones to get..The basic and EXT were only 1/4 difference, but now the basic is a shorter EXT length, and @AccuTune Offroad site has an actual-EXT??

Kings website lists:

• 25001-121 - COMP LENGTH (IN): 15.541, EXT LENGTH (IN): 24.133, STROKE(IN): 8.592
• 25001-121-EXT - COMP LENGTH (IN): 15.541, EXT LENGTH (IN): 24.383, STROKE (IN): 8.842

An email to King to verify minor difference:

• 25001-121 comes standard as an "EXT" version now. The revised kit comes 15.543" compressed, 24.307" extended, 8.764" Stroke

Accutune lists:

• KRS-25001-121 (0-1.5" lift) - matching the king email
• KRS-AT52121-01 (1.5-3" lift) - comp 15.50", ext 25.25", 9.75"stroke

 

Happy to help. So basically you have a few shock part numbers you are looking at, and not sure which ones to go with, correct?

What leaf pack/lift do you have on the rear of your truck?

 

Right, trying to figure out which rear shocks would be the best and Kings own website isn't much help. I have OME Dakar CS047R with BP-51(front/rear) currently, 2006 double cab tacoma

About an extra 450lbs in the bed give or take the 200lb tent depending on what I'm doing.

 

Looks like these leaf springs are designed to get you about a 2" lift, does that sound about right?

I would go with our spec King rear shock KRS-AT52121-01. These shocks are meant for a 1.50"-3.00" lift, so they should be a great fit for that leaf pack. This has a very similar compressed length as the standard King rear shock, but offers more travel. Price is the same so its a no-brainer.

We had been converting Tundra rear shocks to work on Tacomas for years, but King changed those designs and no longer work. This is why we worked with King to create this specific SKU.

We will also tune the shocks to work with the amount of weight you described.

Let me know if that helps or if you have any more questions!

 

Well if this doesn't workout I'll be going with the KRS-AT52121-01 from Accutune. Y'all have been extremely helpful in clearing up my confusion.

$70 for new hydraulic hoses and fittings to adapt the non-available fittings (I tracked them all the way to England where the manufacturer said not available) to Standard JIC . Refilled with Maxima 7w oil because contacting Fox Racing they told me they only have a 4w and 5w oil and I wanted to use something with better Viscosity Index ratings than Kings oil. So I'm guessing the "Fox red extreme 7w" is just vendor snake oil..

 

Thinking I want to pull the chrome badges off my truck and replace them with black matte decals. The red clay we wheel in has the insides of the letters stained.

 

Doing some work

 

337845mi Finally figuring out why my ARB UCA had a bunch of play. The rear bushing has worn to the point the metal sleeve just flops around. It looks like arb tried to make these bushings need a proprietary tool to install.. So as normal I rigged something that works.

 

Hopefully this is the last post on fixing these OME BP51 shocks... I bought a no loss gauge capable of 700psi($70), the wrong size 1/8npt to 1/4 flare adapter($5), and grabbed 1/4npt to 1/8npt reducer from my stash. Talked my HVAC Tech neighbor into letting me use his nitrogen. Unfortunately he doesn't have an adjustable regulator and we were too lazy to get his gauges hooked up so we over shot a little at 340psi. I figure I'll check the pressure again later and the little bit of loss(from the no loss valve) might bring them down close enough to spec.

The cost of standard hydraulic hoses/fittings, making the tool to open them, a couple new orings, and fill valve parts is priceless compared to the $600 bill from the "best shop in the state" for not doing the job...

 

340950 miles maintenance. Hopefully this fancy Ford grease solves the clunk from a stop, kick in the rear feeling when pulling away from a stop sign. Also put some RTV on the splines of the rear pinion so oil stops leaking past the nut

 

Well it rained again and my CEL came on again with p0420 and P0430.. The next handful of days is supposed to be dry and I'm sure the light will go out again on its own.. BUT this time I noticed something odd on the graphs, everything is flat. I sat in the driveway idling and it just stayed flat(default values?).

The front A/F sensors share a battery+ and the other 3 wires are seperate straight to the ECM. So I'm going to follow that route now.

 

Resealed the little square cover on the timing cover. Can't tell definitively if it's that cover or the timing cover to block that's been leaking. 342,668 miles