HELP! Painting new tailgate gone wrong

Just bought this replacement tailgate for my 2007 TRD.

I thought it had been primed and needed to be painted. I followed the following steps with this egregious result (photo below):

- Scuffed it with 300-grit then 600-grit sandpaper
- Cleaned with wax and grease remover
- wiped that off with tack cloth
- Painted with Dupli-Color rattle can

After the first coat it looked like this. I did a second coat and it looks about the same. It seems like some kind of chemical reaction? Perhaps the tailgate was finished with something that doesn't "agree" with the auto paint I used?

Looking for advice on what we did wrong and h

 

I dont have tan of experience but the wax & grease remover scares me...
Im wondering if the paint is getting absorbed into that cleaner.
Ide sand it down & start over, prep, prime, paint....
Ive painted an entire 1972 240z in my garage.
We washed the cash with water & dish soap...

Heres a quote I found for you:

"After your final sanding when you have your vehicle or part ready for paint, the first step should be a good detergent wash with Dawn or similar dishwashing soap. Dawn has always been my favorite. Wash all panels or parts to be painted thoroughly.
You want to get any sanding scum, dirt or whatever, cleaned form the panels. While you are doing this concentrate on getting all the nooks and crannys wet trying to wash away any dirt, accumulated dust etc. If you are doing just a re-paint this is especially important as what is being painted is where the majority of trash comes from, not the air, floor, or you, but the vehicle or part itself. One area that is especially bad is the underside lips of quarter panels and fenders. Inside bottoms of doors are another area. Basically get the vehicle or part as clean as you can including the areas that are not getting painted.

Once you have done this and the vehicle has dried (sitting in the sun for several hours is the best way) then the next step is to blow it off with compressed air. If you are painting in a booth this should be done outside the closed booth to guard against any areas that you may have missed blowing trash into the air and the booth. I've always done it lightly just to get any dust that may have accumulated on the vehicle while sitting in the shop drying."

http://www.spiuserforum.com/index.p...y-to-wipe-down-a-vehicle-prior-to-paint.6622/

 

That is pretty cool looking velociraptor tiger stripe camo! I'd paint the rest of the truck to look like that.

 

You may be on to something, I like it. Mad Max Beyond Thunderdome.

 

⚠️ Likely Causes
1. Paint on Bare E-Coat (Not Primed for Topcoat)
Even though the tailgate may have appeared "primed" (usually dark gray or black), it's possible it came with just an e-coat — a protective coating applied at the factory for corrosion resistance, not a primer for painting. Rattle can paint, especially lacquer-based ones like Dupli-Color, often doesn’t adhere well to e-coat and can cause lifting, wrinkling, or poor coverage.

2. Chemical Incompatibility
Dupli-Color is typically a lacquer-based spray. If there was any existing incompatible coating (e.g., urethane or enamel base, or even some factory coatings), your paint could have caused it to lift, bubble, or wrinkle. This is a common issue when painting over unknown finishes without a barrier primer.

3. Improper Surface Prep
You sanded and cleaned — which is great — but if any wax, grease, or even residue from tack cloth stayed behind, it could create adhesion problems or “fisheyes.” However, this usually looks like small craters, not widespread paint failure.

️ Fix & Prevention
Step-by-Step Fix:

1. Strip or Sand Down the Paint
   
   • If it's wrinkling or not bonding, you’ll need to sand it back down to a stable surface — ideally, to bare metal or e-coat.
     
     
   • Use 180–220 grit to get through the damaged layers quickly.
     
2. Check the Surface Coating
   
   • Lightly sand a small test area down to the base and see if it's shiny (e-coat) or dull (primer).
     
     
   • If e-coat, scuff it thoroughly and apply a compatible automotive primer (Dupli-Color Sandable Primer or a 2K urethane primer if possible).
     
3. Prime Correctly
   
   • After sanding, wipe it down again with wax & grease remover.
     
     
   • Use a tack cloth gently.
     
     
   • Apply 2–3 light coats of primer, letting each one flash off properly.
     
     
   • Let it cure, then wet sand with 600 before color coat.
     
4. Repaint with Compatibility in Mind
   
   • Stick with one system (e.g., Dupli-Color primer + Dupli-Color topcoat).
     
     
   • Avoid painting in direct sun, high humidity, or very cold temps.
     

 

Agreed, people pay good money trying to get this exact look

 

" E-coat" is short for "Electrodeposition Painting / Primer." That's right, it's not just a protective coating. It is indeed a primer - and a very good one at that. In fact, your Tacoma (and virtually every other vehicle made today) receives an electrodeposition primer prior to basecoat and topcoat.

Getting back to your original question, is that a new tailgate? If so, is it OEM Toyota or aftermarket? OEM Toyota would have an e-coat primer. Aftermarket is a crapshoot as to what kind of primer they apply.