DIY: Replacing the Bearings in the Idler & Tensioner Pulleys

That is exactly what has been said of the

$63 gates 36174 idler pulley

gates 36174 pulley. It doesn't allow the bolt to fully tighten. And this is with the original Tensioner. So what you have is probably the original Tensioner.

 

The

$63 Gates 36174 Idler Pulley

Gates 36174 is the only pulley that i've found works in my tensioner assemblies location. The Febest 0187-DFJ200 pulley in the tensioner location did not allow the bolt to tighten fully. Bolt stayed proud of the pulleys bearing by about 8mm or 3/8" when tightening. The bearing in the Febest pulley isn't thick enough so the bolt was too long when using the Febest but worked fine when using the Gates 36174 or in my case the old tensioner pulley that came out of the truck but with new bearings pressed in equalling 24mm. The Febest pulley had what looked like a 17.5 thick bearing

 

344312 miles Replaced all 4 pulleys with Gates again and no more whine or grind. On this 36174 for the tensioner the bearing wasn't seated in the same place and the front wide face reducer/washer touched the pulley. I seated the bearing to the same place as the last one and it still touched so I just used a reducer from one of the old 36173 pulleys. It doesn't have the wide washer face, but that shouldn't be a big deal.


Side note the new pulleys are slightly thinner, read as more cheaply made.


Side side note, don't loosen or tighten your tensioner with it pinned. It doesn't hold long.