Just Bought a 2014 Tacoma 4-cylinder... need help/guidance

Bought this 2014 tacoma 4x4 a few weeks ago of a used car lot, it has 112k miles on it. Half way home the CEL popped on.... truck ran fine, then 3 days later, after setting on work parking lot and starting it to go home cel starts flashing and throws the truck into limp mode. I turn off the truck and restart it immediately and its fine. Ran the codes with my reader, got misfire cylinder 1. Put in all new plugs (made sure they were gapped correctly), no change... replaced ignition coil with Denso brand coil, no change.
Long story short after a couple weeks of Driving it the following is what I've noticed so far as specific as I can get it.

- ONLY HAPPENS on cold start.
- White smoke comes out the tailpipe on cold start as well. this normal? along with secondary air injection smog pump starts up (probably normal)
- rough idle, so rough sometimes that it throws truck into limp mode until I restart the truck
- if hold the truck around 2.5k to 3k rpms it will straiten out (roughness will go away and it runs smooth)
- Coolant seems to be leaking from somewhere but I can't tell where from, I see nothing dripping under or around the engine or rad.
- same code all the time cylinder 1 misfire.
- not sure if it's relevant but I hear liquid sloshing around behind the dash on cold starts as well.

I'm decent at working on vehicles have borescope, code reader, leak-down and compression testers etc, but I thought about just joining the forum just in case I can get a quick answer from those more experienced than me with this truck.

 

Sounds like a blown head gasket leaking coolant into a cylinder
Scope the cylinders, start with the misfire one

Why didn’t you turn around when you got the check engine light on the drive home from the dealer??

 

AI Analysis:

Based on your very detailed symptoms and observations (thank you for being thorough), here’s a breakdown of the likely root causes and next steps. You've already done a lot of smart diagnostics and replacements, so you're ahead of the curve.

Key Symptoms Recap

• Cylinder 1 misfire only on cold start
  
  
• White smoke on cold start
  
  
• Rough idle or limp mode until restarted
  
  
• Coolant level dropping but no visible leak
  
  
• Water sloshing sound behind dash
  
  
• Misfire clears up once warmed or revved
  

Most Likely Cause: Head Gasket Leak (Cylinder 1)
Here’s why this is highly probable:

1. White smoke on cold start = coolant entering combustion chamber (typically a head gasket or cracked head/block issue).
   
   
2. Misfire on one cylinder (always #1) = coolant fouling plug until it's burned off.
   
   
3. Coolant loss with no visible leak = it’s being consumed in combustion or leaking internally.
   
   
4. Water sloshing = air bubbles in the heater core/radiator from combustion gases entering the cooling system.
   
   
5. Only on cold start = after shutoff, coolant pressure might seep into cylinder 1 overnight.
   

Tests You Can Do
Since you have good tools, try these in order:

1. Compression test (cold vs warm) – Check cylinder 1 compared to others. If it’s low cold and evens out warm, it’s more likely a sealing issue.
   
   
2. Leak-down test on cylinder 1 – Do it when engine is cold. Look for bubbles in the radiator (head gasket leak into coolant) or air sound in intake/exhaust.
   
   
3. Cooling system pressure test overnight – If pressure drops and you get coolant in cylinder 1 next morning, that’s pretty conclusive.
   
   
4. Combustion gas test in radiator (chemical test kit) – Can confirm exhaust gases in coolant.
   

️ Possible Fix
If any of the above confirms a head gasket issue:

• Head gasket replacement – It’s a fairly involved job but well documented on the 2.7L 2TR-FE engine. Have the head pressure-tested and surfaced at a machine shop while it's off.
  
  
• Inspect for any warping or cracks, especially around cylinder 1 area.
  

Other Checks

• Make sure injectors are clean – Just in case it's a fueling issue, though it would be odd for that to cause coolant loss.
  
  
• Inspect intake manifold gasket – It can cause misfires if leaking coolant into intake runner of cyl 1.
  

Final Thoughts
This issue strongly smells like a cold-start-only coolant intrusion, which is textbook for early-stage head gasket failure, particularly since the problem goes away warm. You're doing everything right with your testing approach—so just focus next on the cooling system and combustion chamber connection.

 

Well you just confirmed my suspicion.... I was afraid of that... I think they guy knew he was screwing me.
Would they actually have done anything for me? It wasn't like a Toyota Dealership just a one of those Used car lots.
He did give me a Warranty with it, I need to pull those papers out and look at what it covers. I think I could do it myself though. I would almost like to do it myself just so I know its done correctly.
Anyone ever done this job? Is it something a decently handy feller could do on his own? Looking in the engine bay it looks like this truck would be easy to work on.

 

AI Analysis:

Yeah… based on everything you’ve said, they almost certainly knew. Misfire that only shows up on cold start and goes away after warmup is a classic “try to dump it before it blows” move, and it’s pretty common on small used car lots that don’t inspect deeply.

About That Warranty
Definitely read that warranty closely. Many of those third-party warranties are nearly worthless unless:

• It’s powertrain coverage that includes gaskets and seals,
  
  
• And you can prove it was a pre-existing condition.
  

If it does cover head gaskets or internal engine work, call them. Even if you’d rather do the work yourself, you might get something out of it — a reimbursement, or at least a denial in writing that you can use to negotiate with the seller.

Doing It Yourself – Can You?
Yes, if you’re comfortable with engines and have a decent workspace and tools, you can absolutely do this job on a 2014 Tacoma 2.7L 2TR-FE. This engine is mechanically simple, non-VVTi intake cam, and has tons of clearance in the bay.

Here’s what to expect:

️ What the Job Involves
Main steps:

1. Remove intake and exhaust manifolds
   
   
2. Remove valve cover, timing components (chain, tensioner)
   
   
3. Pull the head off and inspect the gasket surface
   
   
4. Send the head to a machine shop for cleaning, pressure test, and resurface (~$150–$300)
   
   
5. Replace head gasket, new bolts (they are torque-to-yield)
   
   
6. Reassemble with proper torque specs, new gaskets, and fluids
   

Time investment:
If it’s your first time and you’re taking it slow, plan for a weekend or two. One long weekend is possible if nothing goes sideways.

Special tools needed:

• Torque wrench (angle capable or with angle gauge)
  
  
• Harmonic balancer puller (if needed)
  
  
• Timing chain wedge/tool (optional but helps)
  
  
• Feeler gauge (to check valve clearance while you’re in there)
  

While you’re in there:

• Replace water pump and thermostat
  
  
• Clean/replace timing chain guides if they’re worn
  
  
• New coolant, oil, and filter
  
  
• Consider valve stem seals if you’ve got smoke and want a full refresh
  

Parts Cost (Ballpark DIY):
Item Approx Cost
Head gasket kit (OEM/DNJ/Fel-Pro) $120–250
Head bolts (new, required) $50–75
Coolant, oil, filter, etc. $50–100
Machine shop work $150–300
Optional (water pump, seals) $50–150
Total DIY cost: ~$400–$800

✅ Final Thought
If you're mechanically confident, you'll be fine. It’s not a bad engine to work on. Having a borescope, leak-down kit, etc., tells me you're more than capable. And yeah, once you've done it yourself, you'll know it's done right — which beats wondering if a dealer tech torqued it with an impact gun.