TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

unfortunately I did the headers and everything at once when I did the headgasket . I even had SCOL rebuild the blower with new roots too. I have about 15k miles on it since I did the headgasket . The weird thing is it only fouls the drivers bank upstream. I did do the O2 simulators at the same time as well too.

if the timing were off it would have thrown a code . When the the heads were machined everything was in spec too . I did all new oem chains and everything

I’m wondering if an injector on the drivers bank is sticking open in higher rpms. The injectors have 150k on them.
I can play with the throttle and keep it in the 11 AFR range if I feather it .

 

I have an XTool Scanner can I use that to run logs or do I need to get hptuners or the OTT product ?

 

Well the good news here is that the issue is limited to one bank only, which narrows down the possibilities of failures to items that are exclusively on that bank. The only thing that is capable of killing power on one side and fouling things out is either injectors or coils. Things like coolant sensors and MAF sensors get a hard pass because they are items that affect full runability on both sides.

This should be super easy to diagnose actually. The easiest items to check first are spark. If you have a spark tester you can individually pull each coil out and test each one individually. Make sure you have a one inch gap that spark is capable of jumping for all three coils and if that checks out good then it's going to be very evident that you have bad injectors. Given the fouling though I would be more inclined to tell you first that the injectors are actually the issue, not the coils.

If you don't have a spark tester, a long screwdriver hooked up to the end of the coil then gapped to the engine does the same thing while you or someone else cranks. It's sketchy and there is always a chance you get whacked with spark, but it's a necessary evil if you do not have a tool. Besides, it's a great way to wake up in the morning and reminds you that you're still alive.

 

Found your lean mixture issue!

 

Hey all

URD instructions for the quick change pulley insists that the engine be dead cold before starting. Curious as to why that is. I'll be replacing the belt, trimming the snout, then pressing on the new pulley. It will definitely take awhile.

Also any reason not to use some cutting oil in while trimming? I found a few videos on youtube and everyone doing it dry just made me think about that.

 

Because if the blower is hot you will have a harder time getting the hub installed since the metal will be slightly expanded. The tolerances are very tight. I put my hub in the oven for 30 mins before installing to make it a little easier

 

I was thinking about heating it up too! Thanks. I might move the truck into the garage for the work, wont be out driving for any extended amount of time I'm sure that won't matter much.

 

Yes, hot shaft will be harder to install also not fun working on a hot engine lol. I did not use any lube when I shaved the snout and it went smoothly.

 

But the scraping and screeching oh lord... no I kid I'm glad to hear its that easy. Did you run a power drill or just use a hand socket wrench and just crank it?

 

Does anyone know the difference between:

$124 234-9051 Right-Bank Upstream with 4-Wire 8.5” Option Air Fuel Ratio Oxygen Sensor

234-9051 or

$131 234-9026 Air Fuel Sensor

234-9026



Both are listed for my truck, both are listed as Upstream. I already have

$47 234-4260 Oxygen Sensor

234-4260 and

$45 234-4261 Oxygen Sensor with 4-Wire 10” Harness for Lexus/Toyota V-6 Downstream Left/Front

234-4261 for downstream left and right.

 

I’m going to guess, it’s the length of the wire.

 

Thanks a lot!