Code P1130 won’t go away after changing the sensor and clearing the code.

Got got P1130 on 2001 Tacoma and changed the sensor with the original denso part number

$142 234-9002 Air Fuel Ratio Sensor

234-9002 because it is an automatic 2.4L. The light still came on even after clearing it with a code reader. I don’t know if it’s a vacuum line causing this or an electrical issue. The photo attached is of the new sensor.

 

Try cleaning your maf sensor.

 

The P1130 is too rich of a fuel mixture, a dirty MAF misreporting airflow could be it and as suggested above, I would test it, then clean it, then test it again. Before you go down that rabbit hole what scan tool do you have? The reason I ask is that a good quality scan tool will alow you to get live data in both OBDII and manufacturer specific mode. If possible, test in generic OBDII mode and then in manufacturer specific. You want the data in g/sec (grams per second) and the rule of thumb is that at idle there should be 1 g/sec of airflow for each liter of dispalcement, this is kind of a go-no go type of test.

 

I used a O’Reilly scan tool to check the code before I got a little smart gauge tool that works as a scanner and it also clears codes. I’ve cleared the light a couple times and it keeps coming back and right now it threw the code P1133. It’s not really a detailed scan tool it just shows what code it is and clears codes.

 

This is how my MAF sensor is looking

 

Check intake for leaks 1st
Can use chlorinated brake clean, sprayed on intake while engine running. If idle jumps/rises…..there’s your leak

 

P1133:


Hmmm
This new code points to a bad ‘new’ sensor possibly (IMO doubtful)
Or
Wire(s)/harness/pigtail issues

check/inspect all wiring from O2 up….including the pigtail plug

 

Also I found out that the little gauge cluster can read MAF rate and got this info down before I clean it.

 

I’ll also check the wiring and intake

 

Do you have the freeze frame data?
To figure this one out, you need to monitor or see the voltages of the A/F sensor.

 

I do not have the freeze frame data.

 

I think the oxygensen V-12 is the voltage of the sensor at idle.

 

You need to be moving at least 38 mph, and the RPM need to be 1500 or more.
Monitor the Voltages. If they never move off of .77 then you need to have a look at the wiring.
Or a bad sensor.....but they don't typically fail in an open/short fashion. Especially on a NEW sensor.

 

Yea I was driving around and it never went over 1.00.