2001 Tacoma Will Crank But Won’t Start

Hello out there. I have been dealing with this issue for a couple of months. Truck will crank but will not start. I have confirmed fuel pump was not receiving power from the blue cable. I end up hooking power to the blue cable from the ignition, once ignition is on fuel pump pumps gas. It cranks but will not start; how can I verify juice is being passed on to the igniters?

 

Pull a plug out, snap it into the the coil and ground the threads of the plug on the block.
Look for a spark.

I'd also want to see if the injectors are being pulsed. A noid light helps here.

 

Welcome to TW!

 

Thanks for your reply. It appears that removing the spark plug is a bit cumbersome, is there a way to check if juice is going through the coil?

 

GuyFromHP im having a similar issue any update?

 

Do you have fancy multimeters? Might get some traction via induction.... Otherwise, pulling a plug is your best method.

But the equation is simple. You will need cranky, then ignition, and fuel, and air... These are the rules.
You can crank, so power is there, checking for spark is the next least difficult thing to check. If it is fuel, or a fuel pump or even a fuse, you already checked these? Right?

Pull a plug, no offense, most likely next cause is no ignition.

 

Tococharlie. Already checked all my fuses and relays all good checked for spark in all 4 im getting spark I’m getting fuel. But truck turns on for like 2 seconds then just dies and once I do that for a few times truck just cranks no start. I already checked my computer and it’s all reading properly. Checked voltage at the connections at the coil packs I have voltage and I’m getting Signal. I have ignite codes for coil packs 1 2 3 4 but I already replaced all 4 and fuel pump

 

Wow, and no codes? Except ignition? And you swapped the coils, plugs. Did you check the voltage to them? Are they the same V? How are the battery terminals AND most importantly on older vehicles, so dependent on electronics, how is the GROUND connection between the vehicle and the main harness? This is about where my direct understanding of your problem becomes academic. Have you ever read about what the old guys called a wiggle test? You will need some patience for that.
Look for loose or chewed wires and connectors.
How many miles?
How did you determine fuel?
Have you ever changed the fuel filter?
I have seen it happen where it will flow but not well enough to continue, then the motor starves and quits. After a while, enough fuel seeps in again and it runs, for a short while, and quits. When it does quit, can you determine if the fuel pumps are still running? Or do they get power cut off? I had a chevy once, the ignition module was getting hot and would shut down until it cooled. Electronics do this.

I wish I knew the answer. Sometimes, when all of the needs are met, we need to look at wear and tear, build-up, etc. Maintenance issues. But we must also consider a list of options, such as some autonomous power off when a sensor says.... So, we do things like check the battery, is it above 13V? If not, the engine may be telling you that it would rather not run than destroy an alternator attempting to charge the starving 11.5v battery and run the car.... There could be an oil sensor giving emergency oil cutoff signals. But these would throw codes. We might even get lean codes if a blockage is moving...

Last wonder.... do you have rodent issues? Anything nesting?
Auto mechanics is not for the faint of heart. Keep pushing and exploring. Buy a multimeter, even a cheap one. You can do this.
(okay-I lied about that last wonder). Your air flow is not obstructed, and the filter is assembled and clean? No bananas in the tail pipe?