Code P1130 won’t go away after changing the sensor and clearing the code.

Yea probably not. I’ll try another scan tool that can read the voltages better.

 

1. clean the mas sensor with the correct cleaner. I looks dirty.
2. The air leak before the mas sensor wouldn't really make a difference.
3. This guy is great for finding vacuum leaks. Opposed to the break cleaner meathed. I've never had any luck with the spray or map gas/ propane.
AutoLine Pro EVAP High Volume...

$70 AutoLine Pro EVAP High Volume Smoke Machine Leak Tester – Shop Series - Automotive Smoke Tester for Vacuum Leak Detection - Car Smoke Machine with Ceramic Smoke Coil and Best Ranked Smoke Fluid

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JVT1NG2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Also most vacuum leaks cause a lean condition.

 

Ok already did step 1 and I’ll take Evap machine into consideration. Thank you.

 

I use one of these and it catches all the leaks, great lil unit, has its own air pump.

$78 Solary Automotive Smoke Machine Leak Detector - 12V DC EVAP Vacuum Diagnostic Tester for Pipe System

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C7MKZPK3

 

And you probably want one of these no matter what machine you use, they work great: https://a.co/d/7OH60c5

 

Alright I’ll add this to my list. Thank you

 

That code doesn’t set unless you are over 1500 rpm and on fuel or fuel cut.
My point is, it’s not likely a vacuum leak.
If so, you’d be lean all the time / at idle.

The code is for circuit response.

 

What if it gives both codes. I cleared the code again and the when the light came back on it only showed code P1130. I don’t know if my code reader is off but it still only shows the voltage of the downstream O2 sensor and not the upstream one. So it might have something to do with the connection of the upstream sensor. I checked the sensor earlier today and it clicks in just fine so I might need to follow the wire up and there might be an issue there.

 

I got one too but technically you can use a glove to cover large holes too. I dose work i tried it out.