So um... Why aren't people doing this?

I started making a center console/sub channel and had a thought, so I followed it.

The resonant frequency of the back cab panel was roughly 40Hz when I knocked on it. I thought, I wonder if one of those planar transducer thingys would work. So I bought a couple 300W bass shakers, and imagine my pleasant surprise when it worked perfectly well! I'll have to take some samplings, but I most definitely have an easily usable low end just from one installed with rivnuts where the perforations are flat.

 

Well, I want it.

 

I always wanted to try this, main issue is going to be sealing the riv nuts from the outside. But placement is also key..

 

Ya, I just yolo'd it and didn't put any kind of sealant because it's the indent (exdent?) so water will already find a tough time getting in there, and the butyl rubber kinda got shoved in there by osmosis. It's definitely a bit quiet compared to the rest of my system, but when I kill the other channels and dial it up to around 8Vrms (only 16W), it vibrates so hard the tailgate rattles and you definitely feel the pressure in the cab

 

Got the 2nd one installed today. ^Base response, crossover @ 80Hz, 24db/octave, taken at waist high, about a foot from the shift lever, pointed straight up with 90* correction curve on a UMIK-1.

I was able to flatten it out from 20-50Hz fairly well after a few mins of playing with the DSP. That should work well to supplement the little 8" sub I'm working on.

 

As to not start another thread, my center console is coming along quite nicely. Not shown is I epoxied the inside and outside over the weekend (I should have done it in stages, oops, live and learn):

 

4!! cupholders. that is looking sweet !

 

LOL yep thanks! And possibly of two more in the center behind the elbow if I decide later I want them

 

Then there's an obvious question here-- why not keep running the bass shakers? Lack of output?

 

Doing both. The 8" sub will cover 50-120Hz (ish) range, the shakers 20-50Hz. I forget exactly where my mids start falling off. Got a new DSP too

 

Just about done. Just need to glue the last of the carpet and find some kind of inconspicuous handle for the hatch. I plan on 3d printing a basket insert so things aren't flying around the inside of the enclosure

 

check RV cabinet door latches. lots of options for latching/locking mechanisms, and all pretty cheap.

these are some good old marine-style latches. they work in rough sea's, they'll work with a subwoofer

$14 WJSKDQ Boat 2'' Flush Pull Slam Latch Black Plastic Round for RV Boat Door Latches Deck 1/4'' Door Cabinet Hardware of 2PCS

https://www.amazon.com/Flush-Plastic-Marine-Cabinet-Hardware/dp/B07SR1GGH9

and these are sorta nifty-- lots of higher end rv designs use these for the modern ikea look and feel. they pop up to reveal a knob, and when pushed down lock the door in place.

$22 CXQamitao 5 Pack Push Button Latch Cabinet Door Catch Keyless Cupboard Locks for RV Motorhome Camper Caravan Home Yachts,Zinc Alloy&Black

https://www.amazon.com/CXQamitao-Cabinet-Keyless-Cupboard-Motorhome/dp/B0C3TP4W73