A non-enthusiast's Tacoma build

I'm fairly certain the cause in my case is also a windshield replacement. It took time to show up, just like yours did. I didn't have the failed relay that you did though.

 

When it rains, it pours…



Gonna have to research this when I have time. Here’s hoping it’s nothing I can’t handle myself.

 

Following up. Nothing gets my blood pressure up like a (pending) CEL, so I didn’t waste any time trying to diagnose the issue.

The P0012 code that popped states:
Camshaft Position 'A' Timing Over-Retarded Bank 1
https://www.autocodes.com/p0012_toyota.html

Upon consulting the Library of Tacomandria (old threads), I found two likely culprits: the VVT filter, and the VVT solenoid itself.



VVT filter



From what I understand, this filter is designed to keep crud out of the VVT solenoid. With the P0012 error code, it stands to reason that the filter is either clogged or failed outright.

I located the Bank 1 (passenger side) VVT filter, which is most easily accessed through the front-passenger wheel well. I then used a 14mm socket and a couple extensions to remove the plug. The filter came out attached to the plug, which doesn’t always happen according to some reports.

It didn’t look especially dirty to my eye, but I opted to do a bit of maintenance while I had it in hand. I rinsed the filter out with gasoline, which isn’t the preferred method for addressing this part. Without a replacement filter on hand, it was the best I could do.

I reinstalled the VVT filter and torqued to 46 ft-lbs, which is the only torque spec I was able to find for this part.

It’s worth noting that accessing the Bank 2 (driver’s side) VVT filter requires removal of the alternator. Not nearly as straightforward as what I did.



VVT solenoid

Now on to the VVT solenoid itself. According to a couple sources I found, a sticky solenoid can cause a P0012 code. I also found a useful picture showing the indicators of a stuck/gunked up solenoid:

Off I went to pull the VVT solenoid. After removing the engine cover, air filter housing, and air manifold, I was left with this:



You can see that the Bank 1 (passenger side) and Bank 2 (driver’s side) VVT solenoids are very close to each other:



Since I was already in the neighborhood, I figured I should pull them both for inspection and cleaning.



While neither solenoid was as gunked up as the photo in the quoted post above, it was clear that the piston was slightly out of position when at rest. Without spares on hand, I once again did the best I could with what I had. Hosing both solenoids down with throttle body cleaner, including inside the enclosed end (near the electrical connector) seemed to restore full range of motion.

Reinstallation wasn’t too difficult, nor was reassembly of the other components.



Oil change and testing

After putting everything back together, I immediately performed an oil change. One of the potential causes of clogged VVT filters and sticky VVT solenoids is old, dirty oil. While my oil wasn’t past due, it was within 800 miles of my next scheduled change. When in doubt, swap it out.

I fired up the engine and had a very rough start. I then immediately got a P0306 code, which is for a cylinder 6 misfire.

F###. I thought my unreliable vehicle days were behind me.

Then I had a realization. Between all the crap I sprayed on the VVT solenoids, the gas I dumped on the VVT filter, and (stupidly) not disconnecting the battery before doing any of the above, maybe the computer was getting a little spazzy. Time to disconnect the battery for a bit, let it sit, and try again.

The truck started up just fine the next go around. Oil level was spot on. No error codes. Redlining it (in park) yielded no weirdness. An aggressive test drive, hitting 90 mph for a few seconds, was similarly fine.



Preventive maintenance

I plan on replacing both VVT solenoids and both VVT filters in the next couple weeks. While I’m comfortable handling three of those four tasks, I’ll save the Bank 2 (driver’s side) VVT filter for the dealership. Removing the alternator requires a level of technical know-how that makes me more than a little uncomfortable.

This is the first engine trouble I’ve had with this vehicle, and I have zero interest in it happening ever again. I plan on adding VVT solenoid and filter replacement to my maintenance schedule, with an interval of 100k miles.

 

Good to see you trying.
But I have to be honest. Unless there is an active code (not pending) or a drivability issue, I don't get concerned with pending codes.
P0012 is a 2 trip detection code. It has to see the issue happen 2 times on separate trips. And there is a reason for 2 trip. Because "not all problems are a problem" until they are a problem".
Things can just happen, and then they don't happen again.

Once every couple years, my truck will start up and immediately cut off.
It will start right back up and run fine for a couple years after that. Things "just happen".

I'd drive the truck and wait until the p0012 sets permanently.

 

Good feedback, @TnShooter. I’ve got a bit of a hair trigger when it comes to vehicle issues due to previous experience with my old F150, so I tend to attack anything that pops its head up. Better safe than stranded is my line of thought.

That said, do you think replacing the VVT solenoids and filters could cause fun new problems? My gut says no, but I honestly know very little about these engines.

 

Nope. The only issue it will cause is your wallet to be lighter.
Just make sure you get new seal washers for the filter bolt. Just to avoid any leaks. (They would probably fine reused. But might as well replace them too)

 

I've been searching for the sealing washer part number without any luck. Do you know what it is?

 

Good looking out, thanks @TnShooter.

 

Selling my house, moving to a new place way out in the sticks, knocking out the 120k mile maintenance on my truck, buying another vehicle... it has been a helluva few weeks.

My maintenance schedule generally does a good job of spreading out major tasks. The 120k mile interval is one of the unfortunate ones that has a bunch of stuff loaded on it, including things that I'm not confident I can pull off solo. Here's what got done:

Transmission fluid flush: @EatSleepTacos and I did a DIY drain-and-fill at 58.6k miles, so I was due for a full flush. My local dealership completed this work using 10 quarts of OEM ATF; no notes.

Brake fluid flush: dealership completed this work using DOT4 fluid; no notes.

Multi-point inspection: while I usually roll my eyes at this sort of surface-level assessment, I actually got some useful data points out of it -

- Wheel bearing, tie rod end, and LCA inspection requested by me. The tech said all are in good shape.

- Despite greasing the ball joints on my SPC UCAs in accordance with manufacturer instructions, the dealership technician noted that they are exhibiting play and in need of replacement. I'm a little annoyed, but then again, I've had these installed for 78.5k miles. It has been mostly easy highway miles, yes, but that's still a pretty long time. I ordered replacement ball joints, SPC P/N 35101, which will be installed when time allows.

- My tires are at 5-6/32 tread depth all around; seeing as how they started life at 12/32, and VA state inspection requires a minimum of 2/32 tread depth, that puts them at about 30-40% tread life remaining. I have 76.2k miles on them; my napkin math of 76.2k miles/70% expended shows that I can potentially eke out a total of 108.9k miles, which is pretty spectacular. It's also nearly identical to Consumer Reports tread life estimate of 106k miles for the Michelin Defender LTX M/S line. When these go, I will be getting another set.

- My rear brake shoe thickness is at 3/32, or about 2.4mm. According to this link:
https://www.toyotanation.com/threads/long-life-brakes.1481706/
... brake shoes start out at 5mm and must be replaced at 1mm. That puts my brake shoes at 35% pad life remaining. I have never had them replaced; assuming linear degradation and no change in driving habits, 120.1k miles/65% expended shows that I might be okay until the 184.8k mile mark. I currently have rear brake shoe replacement scheduled for the 150k mile mark, which is where I'll likely keep it in the interest of safety.

- My front brake pads were at 5/32, or about 4mm. According to most sources I can find, such as the one linked above, front brake pads start out at 11mm and should be replaced no later than 1.6mm. That put my pads at 26% life remaining. While I could've potentially stretched this out awhile yet (120.1k miles/74% expended = 162.3k mile potential max service life), I opted to go ahead and get new pads installed.

- According to the dealership, my front brake rotors were warped and could not be resurfaced. That certainly explains the violently wobbly steering wheel I got when braking at highway speed, which only appeared within the last thousand miles or so. The dealership offered to install new rotors, which I approved. They somehow missed the memo that dealerships don't customarily use aftermarket parts (NAPA in this case), especially when the customer specifically states that OEM Toyota is the only brand of part they want installed. I caught their mistake by thoroughly reviewing the line item breakdown in the invoice, then had them correct it. I have shiny new OEM brake rotors now.



On top of the normally scheduled stuff and extra concerns the dealership found, I wanted to address the pending P0012 code and leaky windshield issues previously noted.

While I was at the dealership, I had them replace the Bank 2 (driver's side) VVT filter. This particular filter is a real bastard to access, requiring removal of the alternator. I provided the filter (OEM P/N 15678-31010), gasket (OEM P/N 90430-16007), and ~$580 (!) of labor charges to get it done. While the tech was in there, I provided a replacement serpentine belt (OEM P/N 90916-A2001) for installation. My previous belt was in good condition, but the truck is 10 years old and it wasn't going to add anything to the existing labor bill.

Once I got my truck back home, I tackled the remaining installs myself. The Bank 1 (passenger's side) VVT filter was easy enough, using the aforementioned parts and following the procedure I used in the quoted post above.

Replacing the VVT solenoids ended up being something of an adventure. I sourced the replacements easily enough, OEM P/N 15330-0P010 for Bank 1/passenger and 15340-0P010 for Bank 2/driver. Everything was pretty straightforward up until I fumbled the stupid little bolt that secures the solenoid to the engine block. It decided to wedge itself nice and snug behind my water pump pulley:



I had no luck trying to fish it out with a magnet or sticking my fingers in there. I walked out to my neighborhood auto parts store to get a replacement bolt, which I then installed. I reassembled everything and started the engine in the hopes that the errant bolt would be flung out by the rotation of the pulley. Nope, all I got was a god-awful screeching noise and the faint smell of rubber that had just started to burn. This isn't good.

After a moment of

... and a decent night's sleep, I figured out what to do. Just gotta take the fan assembly out, loosen the serpentine belt, and retrieve the little bastard. Then slap everything back together, test, and carry on.

https://youtu.be/SySKizdRA0I?si=4X50RFOQPG3WwRms

This video was quite helpful in illustrating the process. There are differences between my 2015 and whatever he's working on, namely the coolant reservoir being integrated into the fan shroud and no actual need to disconnect the big fat coolant line before removing the fan shroud. Still useful though.



Not as scary as I thought it would be.



Got it. The name of this little pain-in-the-ass is OEM P/N 90119-A0160, and it's the bolt that secures the VVT solenoid to the engine block. Here's hoping that's enough keywords for the search function to find this post.

I also got my windshield replaced, this time by Glass King of Norfolk. As mentioned in the quoted post above, these guys are highly rated. Their attention to detail leaves something to be desired, though...



I specifically requested Japanese or American glass on multiple occasions. DOT 563 is the same manufacturer regardless of what brand name is slapped on it, whether it be TriVal like my previous windshield or PGW like the one they installed. To recap, this link shows the manufacturer's location based on the DOT number:

https://www.carwindshields.info/dot_db

As I noted previously:

Am I annoyed? Yes. Is the manufacturer of the windshield more important than the quality of the install? Probably not. I've got bigger fish to fry at the moment, so I'll let it ride.