Project: DBL BLK ◇ by ToyRyd

Finally got the tires mounted, alot smoother than the pit bulls and seat of the pants feels like it moves a bit faster.

 

Trucks looking good! Did you get the frame height down?

 

Thanks!

Ever since the wider axles, almost flat spring perches has helped get the truck in proportion. Frame is 25" almost 26". Truck is wider than it is tall which helps quite a bit compared to the old toy axle that was almost a perfect square (tall/wide)

 

Got some new Corbeau seats, factory ones were just about done for the first 20years of their life.

Replaced with some Corbeau Moabs. Some people have complained about the seats, but my first road test to Rausch Creek (2.5hrs) to watch some Ultra 4 racing turned out to be very comfortable and happy with the seats cushions. Lumbar and heated does help as well. Corbeau brackets also fit nice and all holes lined up easily which was a welcomed plus.

Bought the heated seats and lumbar seperate, ended up being very easy to install, highly recommend vs what the manufacturer charges for the seats to be "ready".




Then also replaced the old 9-10yr old Bilstein 5125s with the new B8 5165s. Apparently these are v2.0 of these 5165s that the first gen use to leak by the reservoir.

Looks nice, and was able to make the reservoirs fit nice and tucked up out of the way.








And then of course some Ultra 4 pics, 2 former Kings even made it out so that was cool to see as well. #Miller and #Blyler

 

20 years of frame rust and now to clean up an upgrade/box. Couple shots from my neighbor who helped me out as well. Took a good solid week of work.

New tank/lines/evap/brake lines and misc coming next.

 

For those still following along, replaced the fuel lines, all evap lines, charcoal canister, new tank, sending unit, pump, etc. and added some weld on zip tie tabs for the wiring.

Fixed the notorious 1st gen bed fenderwell rust too. Pia, but some seam sealer and recoat the underside should be good to go.

 

So you made your own gastank crossembers?

 

Yes sir, everything is now boxed nothing open to elements. New crossmember for the gas tank was a challenge to build but good to go.



And finished up welding in the new exhaust hangers Sunday.

 

Front was from a company called RustBusters, kind of like the Safe T Cap guys. They make a front gas tank crossmember, unfortunately took some work to modify to fit my driveline angles.

But beefed it up a bit in order to handle my antiwrap bar that I have in the garage waiting to be welded in.

Also to house this fine piece.


Been running a 1310/Toyota ujoint at the tcase since I had the front shortened for the crawlbox for the longest time. Never really liked it, but also never really an issue since that angle never changes. So swapped for a normal Toyota u joint setup, retubed the front section to match the rear .156 wall dom thickness, rebalance, and now running the Mitchmade carrier bearing.

Found a good driveshaft shop (Driveshaft Works) that could handle being shipped parts and build per request. They built my rear shaft with the pieces I provided them. In PA too so that helps keep the cost down vs shipping west coast.

 

I see @eimkeith’s front mount too, but you didn’t lift it right?

 

Its lifted some, but just used parts from his kit so that I didn't have to make myself. You can see the front of the tank is now even with the bottom of the frame rail/spring hanger.
That front mount helped a ton on that new crossmember, and was able to use some old larger seat bolts with welded nuts. And then the other portion of remounting the EVAP box a bit out of the way to bring the rear part of the tank up.