Motorcycles BS Thread 2.0

I dont change my oil enough to worry about it.

ive got all sw motec on mine too. I guess in a couple years I'll have to get another bike since everyone is stopping production for this one.

 

Yeah, that'd probably be fine for a fumoto. If you have to remove the plate for a filter anyway, wouldn't be worth it to me to do.

On the F800GS its on the left side of the engine, down low. Stock skid doesn't cover it, but I have an aftermarket one that partially protects it. Fumoto would be asking for trouble on my bike, it would extend out past the skid I think, and be in a spot where the lever could easily get caught on crap. (stock image, not my bike, for the record)



Anyways, stahlwhatever is just another option I figured I'd throw out there

 

Let's go


@Calamity_taco sweet bike the CP3 engine is amazing

@kidsmoke I'm signed up for the DGR per usual... and nice Gina's looking mint I'll be riding my Husky 701 SM

@TacoTyusday wow that Duc is sexy

 

Oh, for sure. I appreciate the input. It's always good to get the info out there, because it might work for somebody else that comes through.

As for the ST Fumoto, it would only be "worth it" if I found a work around for the filter, because you are right. If the skid has to come off for the filter the regular drain bolts are fine.

 

Thanks! It's a lot of fun! But besides that how you been haven't heard from you in a hot min lol.

 

took the gf out on a longer ride yesterday since it was nice on the tracer and man is it comfy but so odd compared to the bolt with a passenger!

the bolt everything is low to the ground so most of your movements you do you dont feel anything different with the bike it feels pretty normal. just a bit heavy if that makes sense.

the tracer thou she sits up higher. which she loves btw since she can now see over my head and is able to look forward. the windscreen surprisingly shoots the air up and over her so its not smacking her in the face so at 75mph on the highway she was comfy and had no issues just sitting up there relaxing on the top box. now the odd part i gotta get use to is the weight and where its located at! as stated the bolt is low this bike is taller and she is up higher so when doing maneuvers it feels kinda like a trailer if that makes sense? i can feel the weight shift on the back of the bike vs how the bolt it felt pretty grounded since it was only a few inches from the ground. you also gotta be careful! accidentally got the front wheel off the ground when giving it a wee to much throttle when trying to get moving... she thought it was fun and funny meanwhile i was like oooh shit lets not do that again...

overall its just a learning curve but just the 20min ride we did to go get her bike she loved riding on the back compared to the bolt and it was a lot more comfy for the both of us on the bike.

i didnt ride it into work today i found its chain is waaay to damn loose and its rear brake i think it has some air in the line it feels just a tad spongy. so this weekend ill be doing some maintenance on it and plus an oil change since nobody knows when it was done last.

 

You might want to mess around with rear shock preload when she's on the back, that might help a little. Those definitely carry their weigh higher than a Bolt! You'll learn to pay attention when packing to evenly distribute the weight between the side bags and top box. If you got the front end up in Touring mode you'll really be in for a treat in Sport mode.....I think your brakes are similar to the FJR and might be linked where the rear brake pedal also applies one set of brake pistons on the front so there may be a specific bleeding procedure. I'm not sure but you might want to investigate that so when you bleed them you do things in the correct order.

 

ya i was thinking about that with the rear shock i had read some people need it adjusted with two up. ya they do! i will for sure it will all be a learning process to make sure its still comfy for long distance and safe. haha that is true! sport mode is gonna be really fun or freak me out for a bit haha so gonna stay in touring for now! i was wondering about that with the brakes tbh! i know my buddys old venture had the same thing and i know a lot of newer yamaha bikes have that so gonna have to do some reading and see if it is.

 

Invented by Moto Guzzi 50 years ago, I might add. Definately requires a bit of skill to bleed those systems. They get no respect as Honda and BMW came out with it a decade later and get credit. But that, and the center stand, were Mandello creations.

 

i did look into it and it does appear my bike has that system so ill have to look it up and see if i can do it my self.

 

Look and see if there is a Tracer forum and sign up. It's possible that it may be similar to the FJR1300 set up.

To bleed mine you first bleed the system like any other brake system starting with the rear caliper then to the bottom bleeder on the right front caliper which is the set tied to the rear. Then bleed the fronts. Next I have to remove a dash panel to get to an electrical connector for the ABS. Remove a dummy filler plug, soft rubber reminds me of an ear plug, and insert a jumper wire from one pin to another, doing this with the ignition off. Sit on the bike and apply both rear and front brakes and turn on the ignition. You then feel 2 or 3 pulses in the rear pedal followed by 2-3 on the front lever. Turn ignition off and bleed the system again and you're done. What this does is manually forces the ABS pump to actuate and moved fresh fluid through the shuttle or spool valves in the ABS block. Whole thing really only takes me about 5-10 additional minutes.

 

I did not know that. I know Guzzi was pretty willing to think outside the box and did some really unique and original stuff. Their limited dealer network has always been the thing scaring me away. I still look around for a Norge every so often......

 

oh wow thats a lot but doesnt sound to bad tbh.

there is a forum for them yup ill sign up after work today thanks for the info on the procedure ill make sure its the same procedure

 

Changing my comment, I think it takes understanding moreso than skill, to bleed those systems. If you can think through the logical path of air bubbles, and proceed accordingly, you're good.

on the technology, what they introduced was the integral braking. on a 3 disc machine, which was also fairly new then, the pedal would equally compress the left front and rear calipers, and the hand lever the other front caliper. It was intended as a safety feature, ensuring balanced braking. Takes some getting used to coming from standard front/rear layouts. Honda took it further in the 80's, and CBS (combined braking system) is actually more sophisticated.

They had just outsold Harley with their police bikes in the United States, were flush with cash and feeling a little full of themselves.

1975

 

As others have said, preload will definitely help with the weight on the back. It'll sag less in corners and feel less reactive if set properly. Are you having her look over your inside shoulder when you turn? That was the way I was able to make it clearest with my wife and she got much better at positioning her body to help the turn rather than fighting the turn and trying to stay upright during it.

Double check the chain spec, I'm guessing it'll be a fairly loose spec, simply because you have more suspension travel now, and better to be slightly loose than slightly tight. My F800GS is almost two inches of slack, for comparison. It looks like a lot when it's on the side stand, but when you sit on it it takes a lot of the slack out as the suspension compresses down.

 

I do very little pillion riding, but this is brilliant. I'll have to remember this. My GF has said she's willing to get out with me more this year. This will be a good coaching tip.

 

Low weight and high reps is no joke, great change of pace when you need it too. We used to have a day once every couple months in my weight lifting class in high school where we would do almost no weight, as many reps as you can do in 90 seconds. The coaches called it PTAs, pain, torture and agony.

 

ya preload is most likely what i need to adjust so ill have to play around with it. she moves fine when taking turns and such it wasnt in wide open turns its more of switching lanes or fast maneuvers if something lets say falls out of the truck in front of you. those type of moves i can feel the weight of her being up there and the bike in a sense pulling a trailer.

ya ill have to but even with me and her sitting on it the bike has so much slack someone can push it up and hit the swingarm. i heard it skip a tooth yesterday and it sounds like a very very loose chain when ridding so i doubt its in spec. also idk if this bike has more travel like your adventure bike since this is more of a pavement pounder but could be wrong on that one lol.

 

I would if i had the room.... (and time) but alas its probably a good thing I only have a single car garage for motos and work on motos.

Yeah absolutely not ever running a fumoto valve on a moto, wayyyyy to much risk there to snag one in a drop etc. And like stated my super tenere has a big skid that I have to take off anyways to get to the filter and its not like im changing oil but maybe 2x a year.

I always found it odd that the FJR never went the route of the Super tenere as far as its linked/unified braking system and kept it the old school mechanical way. Though maybe its because yamaha realized the typical FJR crowd would use the rear brake more than the front? Super tenere (and likely the tracer if it has unified braking) utilizes the ABS pump system, speed sensors and lever pressure input to apply Rear brake via the pump when you apply front brake.... its made me incredibly lazy and I hardly ever touch the rear brake lever unless im blasting the canyons or at a stop light. Cool thing is if you apply the rear brake FIRST and then the front it doesnt do any unified braking.

 

well shit now i gotta see if mine is like that haha. from looking online people state they have it but idk if its from the rear brake or more like yours