2tr-fe 2.7L dirty coils

Hey! I got it! It’s running now! Ran it for about an hour tonight. Running smooth and quiet. Changed the oil. Putting everything back together. I will have it out of the garage this weekend.

What happened was I somehow missed connecting this vacuum line circled below. It was hidden behind the intake(that’s my excuse).



I also somehow put a pin hole in the radiator. Probably while it was kicking around my garage the last two months. I have one on order. Other than that this project is almost done.

I think I am going to rent lift time at a local garage to finish the rest of the frame treatment. My garage is kinda cramped and I think I will do a better job if I can stand up and walk around.

I’ll post back after I take it for a drive.

 

Most awesome. Congrads on nearly finishing this adventure

 

This is great news. Even better that is was a simple oversight. Bravo mate

 

Ok another update. Since doing the HG job I’ve had a couple snags.

First the water pump failed. NBD. I was briefly scared something major was going on under the timing cover until I figured out where the metal/metal squealing was actually coming from. Replaced the leaky radiator at the same time.

The second issue was pretty bad. What seems to have happened is the brand new chain tensioner for the large timing chain failed which allowed the chain to slack up big time. This then caused the upper guide between the cams to get thrashed which is how I realized something BAD was happening. Luckily I think I caught it before any real damage occurred. The chain didn’t skip teeth or anything.

I’m now going to fight with rockauto for my money back. They won’t be able to reimburse me for the additional 12-15 hours of work they caused me. I basically had to take the whole front of the engine apart again. Seems to be running fine now though :/

 

Jeez. Glad you caught it

 

That could have been catastrophic.

 

Wow. First, congrats on getting this all back together. I'm surprised you didn't change the water pump and the idler and tensioner pulleys while everything was apart. And a major bummer on the primary tensioner failing! You're the 2TRFE timing chain king after all this!

For the major items, what brand parts did you use and where did you source them from?

 

I hope everyone is enjoying the new year!! 2020 man...

Does anyone have an updated link for this shop manual?

I think I need to replace the cam phaser. I already ordered and OEM part from eBay for $95 new. The dealer wanted $400.

The engine has a significant rattle/tap intermittently on cold startup. It goes away after a couple seconds of running. I had an engine specialist down the road take the valve cover off and look around. He said the phaser is loose or has play which it shouldn’t. So here I am. It shouldn’t be too bad of a job compared to the whole head-gasket from last year.

 

Sorry for the late reply. For everyone’s information this was the timing chain kit I bought. I have no complaints about any of the other components so far but the large timing chain tensioner did fail which caused me to have to redo a bunch of work.

 

I was able to replace the cam phaser this weekend with little issue. It took about 6 hours. Fingers crossed I don’t have to get back inside this engine any time soon.

 

Good work

 

One of the best write-ups I've seen on here and DIY no less.... nice work.

I'm praying that I don't have to do this... my 05 2TR-FE has weird chain/pistol slap at cold start and occasional stutter/shake at cold start that results in it sounding like it's gonna die, then spike RPMs and go back to normal. My mechanic suggested all the work you did yourself, but with removal and dropping of the transmission (5MT) and engine to do the job = $4,500 No thank you. A can of Liqui-Moly Pro Engine flush and 2 oil changes to remove/flush it, it now only occasionally chugs at cold start, minus the awful chain/pistol slap sound. Next week i'm replacing spark plugs, coils & injectors as a starting point to see if that resolves it.

 

Try a higher quality oil filter with a good anti-drain back valve. I switch to a

$15 M1-102A Extended Performance Oil Filter

M1-102A filter and the cold start chain rattle was greatly reduced.

 

I did 2 full engine flushes and then replaced the valve cover gaskets, coils, spark plugs and 3 more oil changes, now it drives like new again (243,500 miles). Still using the YZZD1.

 

It would take me 6 years to find this thread. Well done OP!

 

The 4-cylinder Tacoma oil filter is vertical with the open end up. The oil isn't vertically draining uphill out of the filter and back into the engine- it's not a 4 cylinder Subaru; filter drainback isn't an issue on this engine.

 

The timing chain tensioner uses oil pressure to take the slack out of the chain. Keeping oil from draining back into the pan minimizes the time it takes for the pressure to build.