1st Gen Lunchtable Thread - General Discussion

Water bill is my number one reason for not wanting grass

grass in AZ as I know it makes no sense

 

Grass in AZ is a losing battle, I fought for a long time. Never looked great

 

Gonna tell the kids this our national anthem

it’s actually not bad

https://www.instagram.com/reel/DJzeW9nOOvu/?igsh=NTc4MTIwNjQ2YQ==

 

What really makes no sense is how we have a full 18 hole golf course on every other block, kept perfectly green year round.

I think it'll do okay at this place, the backyard seemed fairly 'cool'. Idk if this is how it actually works, but it seemed like it would get enough shade and not just burn under the direct sun all day. I'd guess the grass patch is only like 25x35, so I'm hopeful it won't be too an insane of a bill

 

Rigorous care and lots of chemicals.

I couldn't ever get the whole thing green at once, I had a 20x15

 

And a metric fuck ton of water

 

That's a given, you'll need that no matter what. Be smart about watering, I see lots of places watering while the sun is out. You lose tons to evaporation that way, saturate the soil before the sun comes up

 

Fucking a, new table is fast (max 1,000ipm, shown is 600ipm)

https://youtu.be/4NwxxXBvFPU?si=OSXkDYh6hKbV8hm7

 

Hoping to get all this done sooner. Silicone cure time is holding me back (on top of the flex seal I gotta add).

Those parts we talked about, I actually wanted to do a little test cutting and maybe one or two pro bono

Been really fortunate these last months both on the Langmuir side and STV so wanted to pay it back to others.

 

We'd very much appreciate that... also re the curing silicone... can you apply flex seal to silicone, I know some paints and other volatile things won't ever cure on it. I had a body panel glue that single part paints wouldn't even adhere to.

 

Fuck, good point.

I should look up the MSDS on Flex Seal but I do know of a few "active ingredients" that are ok to use with 3M Marine 5200 which is what I used.

The reason for the flex seal is to protect the mild steel water pan from rusting - my friend's own table was proof that flex seal will survive plasma cutting (table is +4" deep).

But his table was a one piece so he used no silicone. I'll have to look that up now.

 

I thought the agents in the coolant were supposed to keep it from being a corrosion risk (within reason, I'm assuming youd change coolant and clean your table periodically anyway)

 

Yep they do, but the capillary action with cutting paired with the use of tap water can still cause it to occur in corners of the bed or where the slats meet. I mean shoot even on the Langmuir stainless steel table, I was getting rust and I used the Eastwood additive fluid.

Maybe I should use RO water on my first fill-up.

@Bandido what are you using in your water table and how's it look now?

 

@Speedytech7 did you cut on laser or plasma?

Betting you used a downdraft setup?

 

Kentucky bourbon since it doesn't sell abroad anymore haha

 

When I was still in school we had an updraft hood over the plasma cutter. I don't have a table as you know, the local place here that does custom cutting uses a fiber laser, makes the tube hole cutting and notching service they do look effortless.

 

Ha faaair

Although I'm sure the cost per ounce is cheaper with White Claw

 

On another note, I had called STV to confirm whether or not the DIP switches needed to be changed on my table - I recently mentioned where STV sent me a free Gear Reduction kit (3:1) which sells for $1,300 separately.

Reason they did this is because the 3 aluminum plates for mounting the motors (1:1 drive) were machined slightly out of tolerance.

Barry today had told me they would normally have a customer toss parts away, but the reason for having me send them back is to use as a learning/training experience. Apparently they have new personnel which is why the issue I had was pretty much unheard of so they wanted to make it up to me for the huge (minor in my eyes) issue.