Brake Squeal

Well, you obviously wrongly questioned what I was suggesting......
Watch the videos...
Knowledge & know-how, is a good thing...


You started at 20 as a technician at a professional capacity?
& you had no idea what I was talking about???

Majority of you guys are quick to talk shit when a dealer cuts corners, & you claim you can do better....
Then we get this.....
Just saying....

 

Getting back on track, ide say glazed rotors before I point the finger at a brake caliper....
You didnt spell it out really, you just stated you replaced various pad / rotor combo's in the last 8 years....
Fresh quality pads & MACHINED / RESURFACED rotors from also a reputable brand...
Last time you did pads, did you machine the rotors?
Replaced all hardware, clips, etc...
Cant have the mindset, im not replacing the clips this time cuz theyre still new from the last brake job....
Im not saying thats happening here, just spelling it out...

You stated, it goes away & eventually comes back.
Think the issue is in parts your using, prep & execution,

Unless your in a snow state & your rotors looks like dog shit....

Brake squeaks are a super common issue & using cheaper aftermarket parts are just adding to the issue...

Im just sharing what all the guys do at the shop for a successful brake job with do-overs & comebacks...
Guys that have been there way longer than me....

 

Again, the factory pads come with 2 shims. Squeal is harmonic. The grease isn’t going to help harmonics. The grease helps the pads not stick to the piston and sometimes caliper. Applying grease to the factory pins doesn’t really help. The pads don’t slide much at all on the pins. And it can actually cause debris to build up on the pins. As the grease traps dust, dirt…..

I personally just sand the pins down with 600 grit paper and get them as slick as possible. I don’t coat the pins with grease.

Again, you need to address the harmonic issues. Pads and rotors. Try OEM pads, with factory shims.

 

Back in the day when I turned wrenches for a living, there used to be a spray adhesive called disc brake anti-squeak. You applied a thick coat to the back of the pads and let it tack up before loading them in the caliper. I know they still sell the stuff. If all else fails, it might be worth a try.

 

They still do. Last time I used it, it was a copper color. Sticky as all get out. It worked, but I prefer grease. That stuff is STICKY.

 

You dont just grease the pins...
Any anti-rattle clips, or anti rattle pads too, also where the bottom / top ends of the pad rest on the caliper,
caliper slide grease on the anti rattle locations & other targets acts as a cushion to help eliminate squeaks & noises when things go wrong...
But we do agree on this is a pad & rotor issue, more than a caliper.....
Its all the little bits & pieces, tips & tricks together that makes a simple brake job a success story vs a nightmare.....

I see now that this brake application doesnt have your traditional anti rattle clips / tins that go on top & bottom of pad but theres still quiet a few spots that could benefit from caliper slide grease...

 

We are talking about Tacoma calipers. That why I didn’t mention tin hardware. As there isn’t any on our calipers. Pins and spring clips. That’s all we have. You can add grease to the pad ears if you want. And the back of the pad. That’s the only places I use it. And lightly at that.

 

I do see that now, but still, plenty of locations where there would be a benefit.
I still stand behind think its a pad & rotor, workmanship issue & not a faulty caliper....
OEM direct from toyota, rotors & pads at the same time, do it right, move on...

 

I understand where you are coming from. A proper brake job can be involved.
Wire brushes and lots of scrubbing can be involved. I too believe in doing the best job you can. Pad slapping isn’t the right way. But it gets them done. It can get come backs too. So can mismatched parts. I don’t do pads for other people unless I get new rotors and new hardware. And none of the EBay stuff either. Name brand, preferably OEM. That way, the odds are it goes together right and works the FIRST time.

 

Dont start a movement