07 Dual Cab Long Bed Manual Swap

Dash:

1. Driver foot well
   • Everything on whole dash is pretty much 10mm, there is a couple 12s and 1 and those live on the airbag mounts and the steering accordingly.
   • Onto actual drivers footwell. first is pop off black footrest.
   • then undo side trim piece
   • one bottom right and other 10 undeneith plastic clip piece you can pop with screwdriver or your nail.
2. Center
   • Use plastic trim piece to pop the A/C controls
   • After that bolts and connections for head unit
   • center vent piece around head unit pops out
3. Passenger lower
   • pull out glovebox
   • same side trim as driver footwell
   • 10s for the bottom should be obvious after those
4. Top dash
   • this is where it gets a little more tricky, take your time here, it does take a little force to get the dash off when all bolts are but you should be able to move dash up and down on clips in back when all bolts are off. There are a some more kinda hidden ones more so than the other parts of the dash. So be more cautious with this part
   • Id start with the airbags (MAKE SURE BATTERY BEEN DISCONNECTED FOR A WHILE BEFORE YOU START UNCLIPPING SHIT) there are 2 12s holding to crash bar. this is part that got me for a little while when I was trying to work through
   • there is a peep hole on passenger side blocked by plastic tab, pop that, then 10 underneith
   • Believe there is some connections around steering wheel or I happened to do them at the same time when I took apart and put together. But check there too
   • You do have to yank the dash to pop out of sockets but you can go from one side and sorta go one by one

Probably an over simplification of the dash removal but oh well. Its not terrible but not good, so time and labeling help.

 

Well its officially taken me 50% longer to try and write this forum than to do the swap itself. God I hate writing. But that should give insight into the swap ability if you are looking to try, writing words is harder than swap lol. Also tried to make a video on the whole process and trying to edit down the

Clutch pedal:

1. Measure 1000x! I screwed up the clutch pedal because I changed how I wanted to do it mid way through and then had to change the welded mount which really didnt work
2. Take your brake booster off. It makes it a ton easier and less scary with drilling and spot welds etc
3. Take time with spot welds, I burned through one which was kinda a bummer. Had never used that bit before so little weird but if you put a good punch in and take time it works incredibly well
4. Something I didnt do till after to work on the ac that I would recommend that would make it easier and get some good maitence why you take everything apart is pull center air box, and move crash bar full out of way. Will open a ton of space and make your life so much easier with welding. really wish I had done this. Its only a couple bolts more and the peace of mind trying to weld in a much easier space would have been so much better. Definitely would do this if i were to do it again. Photo below to show the difference.
5. Clutch pedal mounting
   • I started thinking I was going to riv nut the firewall for the mounts and then switched to stealing the OEM bracket, which I then had to switch the top mount that I used and ya, Ill show the photo. One piece i am disappointed with in the swap. Photo below will be obvious why. Burned holes and then impossible to patch for my skill set
   • Also good to note, a dremel with a sand/grind bit is clutch for this, pedal I didnt prep right either b/c I didnt have one yet and boy it made it soooo much better. Get one, don't consider otherwise
   • Id start with fire wall studs (not way I did it, and why I think it gave me problems) makes it a lot easier for top mount and the firewall is pretty obvious where they go. I also included photo below of oem mount, so if you need to make one, it makes sense. There are indentations where the hoses and studs are supposed to go so it makes it easy
   • This is one of scarier parts of swap with drilling and welding but is actually pretty straight forward. Its not bad if you take it chill and avoid panicking that your car is totally apart and you dont know what the hell you are doing and you have to put back together and you could fuck it all up very easily and your doing this all because some dude had to come up with this crazy invention that is super impressive but it just negates having to use a clutch and is pretty dumb honestly. If you avoid thinking about that not bad.

 

Ebrake:

learned a lot from the clutch pedal so this part went quite a bit smoother. Dremel and more prep helped. Had I moved crash bar all the way out of the way, would have made so much easier too. Crash bar seems intimidating but its honestly not that many more steps. especially considering, if you are changing ecu too, which you SHOULD, its basically the bolts againgst the doors and one under the windshield wiper screen thing. And then the air unit you just have to disconnect from lines at that point (reminder to drain lol thats kinda important)

1. Very similar to clutch pedal process and if you remove crash bar and air box to do this. Routing the ebrake line will be easy as hell too. So one more plug, pull that stuff, makes life so much better.
2. Included photos of the brackets. There are some indentations on fire wall but harder to follow than the clutch pedal. Crash bar has the mounts for ebrake, so while that is on I would recommend mocking that up and then mount. But once airbox and crash bar are out/moved, its very easy to move crash bar back and forth into place.

Some of the photos of old ebrake mounts are in clutch post above. I dont believe you can reuse anything, maybe the foot top ebrake stud for the clutch but I didnt try.

 

Awesome! Hard Part out of the way! While on difficult parts of swap. Wiring, yay! Alright, I opted out of clutch cancel because I really have never used it and i also never use cruise control. I have button and connectors, so may go back and do at some point but for now, nothing. Other forums I have mentioned on matter cover well. I also just realized I dont have full photos of the wiring into neutral part. so this section is INCOMPLETE for now. I will come back and finish the wiring section once I take some photos. To start for now:

1. Neutral safety switch into reverse connector & wiring into neutral
   • Photos below to show what it looks like, but you really need just the red and yellow wires, rest is automatic nonsense garbage. I depined those with a pick and stole connecter from truck. cfcarpenters swap has the connector number in it so I will give glorry to him if you need to purchase.
   • The wiring into neutral I did a little shotty b/c I had already done the reverse connection. I will give detail on how once I get photos so it makes sense and I cant remember super well.
2. The main note I want to make is the auto has an absurd more amount of connectors to it that you dont use. So I taped off those connections and taped harness tight so they werent banging around. The one piece that confused me is the manual trans does the speed calc off trans output (photo below), the auto does not. So that connector goes unused on the manual trans. So you end up just using the reverse connection and the transfer case is all the same so those three connect right up.
   

 

I bought all the parts and then decided not to do it.

if anyone needs some parts for this hit me up

 

Super bummed to hear this! What do you still have, do you happen to have a grey shift console? I am using my tan one from old truck. Doesnt really bother me, but maybe cool to have the same one?

 

Also, out of curiosity, @anthony250f why? At quick glance on your build forum, looks like you are pretty darn knowledgeable

 

I actually do have a grey console. Manual ECU, brake pedal, clutch pedal, parking brake cable and mounts, front and rear driveshafts

main reason was my wife drives the truck primarily and she can’t drive manual lol

 

This is very cool! A DCLB with a manual is a great truck. I have an F150 now due to needing to tow for a business but still have a manual weekend car for throwing gears. It’s a 95 corvette and gears 1-3 are semi straight cut so the whine is incredible.

My 07 Tacoma came with a sloppy shifter and I bought an oem one to replace it. Spendy but feels great. TRD makes a short shifter that replaces the shifter as well; might be worth checking out.

when are you going to supercharge it??

 

Nice work! Thanks for taking the time to post. It's always cool to see how everyone operates.

Not sure if you're ever going to do anything like this again, but I bet you've been bitten by the bug so, if you haven't heard it before, something I remember reading but not immediately putting in to practice at first is that metal prep is key to good, solid welding, especially little tack welds that hold brackets to sheet metal. Getting the metal down to the clean parent metal using a sanding disc and removing paint, rust, mill scale, etc. has been key to my garbage welds turning into passable ones without changing any other variable. I've found welding is like painting where the prep takes 99% of the time and effort but determines the results.

Anyway...good work! I'm interested in how you got your cruise control working

 

I have towed some dumb loads with my old truck, the manual helps but still not that much. This one was pretty absurdly sketch cause the motor was in the bed as well as the trans so it was awfully weighted.
F150 is probably exponentially better

Hell ya! that sounds sick. Straight cut gears are so sick, I keep telling my buddy we need to get to a big empty parking lot so i can hit rev limit in reverse in my 94 corolla cause its straight cut and wines crazy. Also that would just look hilarious too. Always wanted a fun quick car, jealous of the vette!

Ahhh, I have considered definitely with super charging it, as I have never owned or gotten to drive something remotely fast. Issue is I do SO many miles highway, I do a lot of road trips. So the logical side of me is like pay a good amount of money to then pay more money every time I go somewhere. I have found myself taking my corolla on a lot of road trips recently just because it gets 2x the mpg, so it basically means I can do double the trips for the same cost. With the SC it would push it even farther below and I think Id just have a harder time justifying ever taking it.
photo of a 94 LOADED down on 2.5k mile road trip over summer.

 

100% got bitten, I was super fun. And so spot on with the prep, I had kinda know this from when I have welded other things, but its always been a lot easier to prep as it isn't tight space and bigger thicker metal so go bananas with the flap disk. But it being so tight and annoying, I was like its probably fine and guess what... NOPE. So quickly enforced that, why i bought the dremel and then made it so much easier and better. You couldn't be more spot on!

Been feeling very lazy, so may take a bit haha I gotta do some maintenance on my corolla that I been really putting off. But will definitely update when i do. I tried to record the whole swap process and am going to try to make video on it. Need that for video, but going through all the footage is just kinda awful