Tapping speaker wires for amp

2018 non-jbl

I don’t know a ton about car audio, so maybe out of my league here, but I got the trail grid pro Sony ax6000 plug and play unit. Love it.

Needing more umph for my 4ohm Focals and will probably net with a 4ch 60 watt rms Alpine amp. I’m gauging whether to DIY or hire it out. Power and RCAs are straightforward.

Amp outputs, could I just run a 9 wire directly to existing speaker wire harness and tap the (+\-)s using the diagram below and tapping the remote turn on trail grid provided? See below. Most threads I saw were for factory radio, but if there’s any tutorial out there for aftermarket stereos, please post below.

cheers

 

So I spliced the rear speakers from behind the stock HU, (as everyone knows the rear speakers are almost powerless). This worked to my advantage as my underseat powered Sub requires low voltage input. That and the tweeter upgrade and my system sounds pretty darn decent.

 

Once you have an aftermarket radio, you should have RCA outputs to connect to the amp.

After that, you really just need to cut into the wiring harness adapter behind the radio.

Cut and cap the speaker connections from the radio, and splice the amp outputs to the speaker wires in the adapter harness

 

https://pac-audio.com/products/lphty01

this allows you to use factory radio, & wire an amp....

 

I kept my factory HU but you can do the same with an aftermarket HU.

I bought two adapters for my wires right out of the HU. One plugs into the factory HU and the other into the truck wiring harness. This allowed me to get access to the speaker wires coming out of my HU without cutting any factory wiring… while other wires like power, ground, etc are simply connected to thru the two harnesses.

With the speaker wires coming out of the HU, I used a speed wire to connect to a line out converter linked above my post. This lets you “level” the signal coming out of your HU (e.g. increase output to quiet rear speakers). I then connected the LOC to my amp and then ran new wires to the each speaker to power my focals and sub.

DS18 SW-9.18GA-25FT 9 Conductor 18 Gauge 4-Channel Ultra Flex 9 Wire Speaker Wire Speed Cables - 25 Feet Speedwire Multi Channel Cable

https://www.amazon.com/DS18-SW-9-18...3&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY

 

I would highly suggest taking the rest of this thread to the audio section.

Most responses so far are about maintaining the integrity of the factory audio system, which is not at all what you have or need to do.

Honestly I don't get it. There's dozens of threads in this section on cutting bumpers, chopping cab mounts, adding roof racks and holes in roofs, and entirely changing out the suspension.

But among all of that, it seems the overwhelming sentiment is the audio system in these trucks is some sort of untouchable work of art?

 

thanks, this is what I was looking for. there’s just a whole lot more wires as part of the speaker wire harness and wasn’t sure if I still needed them.

 

You really don't. My setups generally only tie into the factory stereo wiring for battery, ground, and ignition power. The rest I run new.

In this case, there's an advantage to connecting the new amp to the speaker wires behind the radio to save yourself some time rewiring the doors, because you're not investing in major power(I'd consider major power to be above 75w RMS/channel)