Tractors, Mowers, Chippers, Trailers, Chainsaws, Generators, Driveway Erosion Control, ETC.

i have one and put a Oregon 14” bar and chain on it. I fell and bucked three 50’ maples with it. Trunks were all 12”-14”. Think I have three 5ah and two 6ah batteries and it was a constant rotation of batteries cooling and 2-3 chargers going. I did it in the cold of December but I kept the batteries inside until time to use so they were somewhat warm. I did toast one of my 6ah batteries. It was brand new so Dewalt did replace it. Not sure if i ran it too hard or just a bad battery. I would not recommend that big of a job for it but it did it and held up just fine. I think it would make a great option for a trail saw if you have a handful of batteries.

Photos of two of the 3 felled trees, one after I limbed the closest one in the first photo. Then the last one after i bucked it.

 

K-582

 

I mounted the display to the hood using the magnets and lower bracket from a Starlink Antenna Dish mount. The magnets are VERY strong, but can be removed if I come up with something better. I still need to run power to the display. Planning to use a Tap-a-Fuse from the fusebox shown at the lower right in the picture. The display is removable for storage by a single thumbscrew from under the center of the display bracket.

 

Well, I feel as though I’m eating crow a little today. Did all that maintenance Saturday on my mower and went to cut this afternoon….turned on the blades and something didn’t sound right. Shut it down and checked to make sure the blades were tight. They were, so I tried again and got the same result, this time I heard a very brief metal-on-metal grind that had to come from the blades.

Checked it out again and found a chunk of the deck belt missing. Perhaps I should’ve considered replacing the belts already, but they didn’t show any prior visible signs of cracking that I could see. I got 4 years and 200 hours out of it. Now looking up part numbers to check prices and get everything ordered. I figure it would be a good idea to replace the other two belts as well while I’m doing this one.

My question is, could that one belt issue cause the metal grind I briefly heard? Maybe the spindles weren’t spinning like they should? I rotated the blades by hand and it seemed fairly smooth. Sorry if that’s an ignorant question but I’m not too sure on that stuff in particular. Not easy to get photos with the deck attached, but here’s one below of the belt culprit. Any advice is greatly appreciated! Thanks.

 

You guys sometimes make me feel embarassed.
I have a 30-40 year old Murray mower. I put new blades and belts on it, fresh hytrans fluid in the transmission (about $150). Worked much better, until I trailered it to my model flying club field. The engine would start and run, but when the clutch was let out it would die. Good thing there was a mower already there.

Brought it home and looked up what it might be. Start with the easiest, seat safety switch. Already disabled. Found the clutch/brake switch. Double throw (2 contact sets), one on and one off, when closed the functions changed. Head scratcher. I jumpered the set that eliminated the clutch safety. But the deck wouldn't run then, same thing, engine dies. Figure that there's a switch hidden somewhere.

Found a little panel by the operator's knees, I'd never seen before. Inside I found the switch on the mower lever...at least 4 wires going in and out. Figured what the hell, took it out, used a zip tie to hold it in the closed position. Engine keeps running, mower operates. No schematics, no safeties. I'm the only one who uses it, so I know to still use the clutch/brake and not start it in gear (hydrostatic) or with the blades engaged.

When you're given stuff, and it's old but it works, whatever keeps it working is acceptable. At least to me.

 

Some belts have metal braiding in them. Are there grease zerks (nipples) on those spindles? Also, are your blades right side up? A loose or torn belt can make quite the racket. Get a new belt put on there and see what happens. Check back then

 

Yes, there are zerks on the spindles, and just serviced on Saturday. I thought about the blades being incorrect but double checked again and they are correct. Yeah, Ill know maybe a little more once a new belt is on.

 

If you still hear metal on metal, check it in the dark, that'll tell you where the sparks are coming from, if there are any

 

Happy hump day

 

I like it! Magnet mount is good on older Kubotas.... All the new ones are plastic hoods! Then ya gotta go with the suction cup mount.

Now find more grinding to do & get that practice in!

 

On mine the part over the instrument cluster is plastic, but the hood is steel.

 

Happy Friday Jr

 

I thought I was done burning wood after I sold my last house but I'll be damned if the one I bought has a wood burner in it. Talking to my new neighbor he said he had a bunch of trees down at his other property and I was welcome to go cut up what wasn't already cut and use myself. What he didn't tell me was that whoever cut the wood before me thought it would be a good idea to throw all the cut-up pieces on to the logs that weren't cut. Which of course made things immensely more difficult.

 

So I cut this with a Stihl 361. Had a 28" bar on it the dealer said I could upgrade to. And it preformed well but bogged at times. Also the oil pump struggled to keep the bar oiled. So I downgraded to a 25" bar for this and it went through some rather large logs like butter. Stihl dealer here is Rural King. Wanted an over the top amount for the bar. Got this from Amazon for less than the bar at RK.

$67 Holzfforma 24 or 25" Guide Bar & Full Chisel Saw Chain Combo 3/8 .050 84DL Compatible with Stihl Chainsaw MS360 MS361 MS362 MS380 MS390 MS440 MS441 MS460 MS461 MS660 MS661 MS650

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B094ZF4QR5?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

 

Yeah that's a lot of bar for that saw, especially in hardwoods.

I only run the 24/25bar on the 391 to avoid the bog. & do run the yellow chain.

 

Added a cheap canopy.