Induction Bolt Heaters.....??

Does anyone have experience with induction bolt heaters? Simple jobs end up being agonizingly long and brutal because of rusted bolts. This is a major obstacle when considering if I should tackle a job or farm it out to a shop. I usually farm it out because of the rust issues, not having a garage, and having to do the job on a gravel driveway. I'm almost 70 so jobs that I wouldn't think twice about doing now get more thought.I can't use a torch because my driveway is next to our barn and well, heat sources and hay don't mix very well. The induction bolt heaters might be something to consider if there is positive feedback.

The US made units are very pricey and the clones are significantly cheaper. I tend to gravitate towards the more expensive - buy once cry once, but if it won't be used often, does it pay to buy the top shelf units?

 

I have a MiniDuctor Venom, it works fine but it's not nearly as fast as a torch.
I will say the fiberglass sleeve on the coils is pretty fragile and doesn't last very long and they are pretty pricey to replace even though they are just a simple coil of like 10ga copper with a fiberglass sleeve.
Also they do draw some current so your not gona be getting much out of it on a cheesy 16ga extension cord.

I'm sure the knockoff ones are like any chineeseum, it may work great or it may crap out on the first bolt you try to heat.

I use it in places where I don't wana be with a torch but I prefer the torch when I have a choice.

 

I have a rule that I was taught, borrow a tool 3 times, buy it.

I've only borrowed the induction tool 2 times in my career.

I use acc/oxy mostly because its way more intense and direct. I've only used induction on sensitive smaller bolts with flammable items around it.

I've seen fools try to heat up tie rods with it and it never works.

For home use I'd stick to just getting a simple propane torch and it has more uses than just metal.

 

I use mine mostly on those 07-16 Ford Super Duty cab mount cage-nuts that are inside under the carpet to melt the threadlocker so they don't spin, other than that I usually use the blue wrench.

The simple propane torch is great for heating something small in a pinch but it's something bigger and/or you need it good and hot that's not gona cut it.

 

We only have the nuts on EGR pipes that I can't get a torch on. I havent set a carpet on fire in aaaaaaages haha

I just find induction heaters to be hyped too much and have a very specific use case.

I use my butane heater on 10mm nuts and honestly it works. But everyone has different experiences.

 

Yea we do cab mounts on the 07-16 Super Duties all the time, if you don't heat those and melt the threadlocker that cage-nut is gona spin out. You spin one of the ones in the front under the radiator especially on a diesel you will be saying some choice words and possibly pulling a radiator out to get a socket on it. I used to use the propane torch on the interior ones but it always made me really nervous, now I got the induction heater so I use that. Other than that it doesn't get used unless I'm in a spot where flame isn't a good idea.

 

Do you think that the induction bolt heaters would have enough ass to heat up the M14 bolts on the leaf springs and u-bolts?

 

Even Oxy isnt enough (to heat and remove the nuts), we cut them with a disc.

When I started at Toyota I used a torch but the slag would melt our floors and my clothing, and I watched a disc cut it in 10 seconds.

 

It will get there but your gona be there awhile.

Torch you can heat and if needed cut it off, if you get good at it you can cut the nut off and not hurt the threads on the bolt.

All depends on the level of rust though, we deal with virtually zero rust here and probably wouldn't even need to heat such things. About the only things we need to heat up sometimes are exhaust fasteners.

 

Buy new shackle bolts. Cut the old ones out if you can’t zip them off.

I used a 1/2 Milwaukee impact driver and got all but one out. Cut it out.

I bought all brand new zinc coated grade 8 hardware for less than buying one side oem.

 

I have all new hardware as well as new shackles. Nothing original will re used so a destructive disassembly is ok.

 

Just cut them with a sawzall.

The bolts. Can punch them out if they are bitches.

 

Next time try a cylinder of MAPP gas, it burns much hotter than propane.

 

Nice, but you can tell that truck isn't from the rust belt. Up here in salt country, the amount of rust on yours would be equal to a 2-year-old truck.

 

I don't think you can get MAPP Gas anymore. They stopped MAPP Gas production in 2008 and it is no longer sold in North America. There is an alternative, but it isn't MAPP Gas, and not worth the added cost.

BLUEFIRE Modern MAPP is a modern substitute to the traditionally known MAPP fuel gas, which was discontinued since 2008. Currently, our product is the only real original MAPP gas substitute available in the North American Market.

 

Thanks I was unaware of that, better hoard the 3 bottles I have, or do I put up for sale with the disclaimer "I know what I got?"

 

You can get replacement sleeve tubing. You can also get higher temp sleeve material as well. I got a roll on Ebay a few years ago (being DIY, I don't use it a lot), but I believe you can get them on Amazon as well. Fiberglass, silica, basalt, etc.

I BELIEVE the brand I got was Techflex.

https://www.techflex.com/high-temperature

Edit - when doing the coiled loops, you will likely have to "pry" the loops a little to slide the old one off and new one on.

 

A mini torch like this is also a decent substitute for a full on torch at home. I got one from Canadian tire for home tasks.... may not help the OP with his concern of working near his barn but still useful. It can be used with propane or map gas

My only note is that any sort of decent heating jobs will basically drain an oxygen bottle per job and the oxygen is the expensive gas

 

I use a little butane torch. Has worked perfect so far and is small enough to get in tighter areas.