How do I handle this stripped UCA castle nut?

The stud is 14mm i.e. 9/16"? It won't fit in the 3/8" drive slot. Anyway, there are plenty of deep extractor sockets listed on Amz, e.g.

$18 GEARWRENCH 19mm [3/4"] 1/2" Drive Bolt Biter - 86073

https://www.amazon.com/GEARWRENCH-Drive-Bolt-Biter-86073/dp/B08KHQX8GN/

$20 MIXPOWER 5 Pieces 1/2" Drive Nut and Bolt Extractor Set, Lug Nut Remover Extractor Tool, 17 19 21 22mm Sockets & 12mm Center Punch Bar, Twist Socket Tool Set

https://www.amazon.com/MIXPOWER-Pieces-Twist-Socket-Remover/dp/B08R9D7BXK/

 

This is the set of extractors I grabbed:

$47 14 Pieces 1/2" Tap Extractors, Impact Twist Lug Nut Removal Tool, Stripped For Damaged, Frozen, Studs, Rusted, Rounded-Off Bolts, Nuts & Screws, Cr-Mo

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0DFW11RF5

 

Nice. You'll get plenty of use out of those down the road too

 

That was the thought. I have spent more on tools than parts, but having them saves me later down the line.

So, I should be good with these for the nut ya think?

 

Should be. I’ve used an Irwin extractor socket set to basically remove a rear diff fill bolt that basically was a perfect circle lol. Just make sure to pick the right size and hammer it nicely on the first go round and it should zip right off.

 

As already suggested. Plenty of GOOD penetrant days ahead of time. 6 point socket, if that won’t work, pipe wrench. If you end up using heat, try a crayon or wax instead of penetrant so it doesn’t burn off so quickly.

Don’t be insulted but I have to ask, you did remove the cotter pin first?

 

Currently in Chattanooga.

Willing to bring some tools and take a look next week, but suspect you'll be done by then.

DM if you're still stuck

 

Never insulted; working with computers, I have leaned how easy to is the miss the little things. Thankfully it was not that, and the right tools got me going.

OK, now I know it's a small world; the wife is currently in Nashville visiting family!!

I have yet to attack the dust cap for the next phase, but I made headway on the nut. PB blaster, and the extraction sockets made short work of it with no damage to the threads (tested with the new nut). Now I can get the swaybar out of the way and proceed!



But, genuinely appreciate the offer!! I think you are right that I should be done before then, but...

 

Do you think those extractor sockets would work on a stripped exhaust stud? I bought an Amazon kit and the spiral part didn't go the length of the socket. I need a deep socket and probably 8mm

 

Stupid thing, no matter how many whacks doesn't want to drop free. If only I could find my mini sledge...

Hit it with extra PB just in case. Hope I don't need a pickle fork...

Edit 2.. finally.. take that you stupid knuckle (mine and the truck). No pickle needed. On to the shock

 

Shock #2 is replaced. Pretty sure this guy is original to the truck.....



Now, for reasons I don't understand, the same shocks are different colors, but i see that only AFTER installing everything. And you know what.. it's now her personality.. rofl..




Tomorrow brings the Moog swaybar links, and hopefully I can pop this stupid dust cap..

 

The black shocks are for the non TRD variant.

yellow is for off-road. Blue is for sport.
They changed blue for sport for 3rd gen I think to also black.

yes the colors matter as they are different in valving from what I am told.

 

Exhaust components are the worst. If it can still be started, begin a regiment of getting penetrant on the THREADS to be unscrewed. Then run the engine to get it heated, most will burn off. Repeat over and over. When it’s cooled off, spray it again so it can sit soaking. Candle wax or a crayon will help finally so it doesn’t burn off so bad. Then I would try a pipe wrench. If it’s feeling stiff, going in and out to get the wax or penetrant deeper into the threads helps. Like unscrew just barely, tighten back to just short of where it was. It’s hard to describe how I do it. Out 1/16 turn, in 1/32 turn, out 1/8, in 1/16, out 1/4, in 3/32. If gravity is helping get the penetrant into the threads, it’s helpful. If not you can spray it every time you go out before you go back in. Be PATIENT. Expect it to break so you’re not disappointed if it happens. If when you first start to unscrew it isn’t budging, try harder to get penetrant into the threads. Liquid wrench is good stuff but pretty nasty. You definitely don’t want it in your eyes.

 

The dust cap isn’t bad once you get it started, just have to get that initial separation then just work around it…but I’m pretty sure your colors need to match.

 

My opinion, you’re going to regret choosing that brand.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/30-month-project-sway-bar-end-links-and-bushings.770617/

 

Its the studs from the header to y-pipe. I don't think a pipe wrench is fitting in there. I want to think those extractor sockets will work with penetrant, but at the same time I bought a few cobalt step bits and bolts for replacement. Expect the worst

 

So, regarding the shocks - the ones i purchased are these two:
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...-strut-and-coil-spring-assembly/msa0/32ty1100
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...-strut-and-coil-spring-assembly/msa0/32ty1101

Interestingly, the website shows they are different colors (despite being the same just left and right)... Called the store, they have another one on order and we will see what color it is. Guy said they have seen the supplier change things, and one may be older than the other. Honestly, if they are functionally the same, I'm not going to stress it (no desire to tear things apart again).

On the plus side, I did get the stupid dust cap off!

Not sure what to do about the links; i thought Moog was good, so i am a little bummed about that. But the boots on the old ones are completely shot, so....

 

For studs I use this style

https://youtu.be/aE5VnScjRcI?si=AxDu4t8Ejj6KBsjR

 

Well, I got half the old cv out.....


The half connected to the diff does not want to come out though.. got it budged about a half inch but damn it it doesn't want to go more...

 

There’s a snap ring that holds the CV in the housing. Rotate the CV axle a little bit at a time and try to pry it out. Eventually you’ll hit the spot where it pops out.